IMMEDIATELY after the arrival of the news of peace, we determined to make an excursion into the interior of the country, a little corner of which we had inhabited so long, and where we had seen so many stirring scenes of war. The original intention of our party was to go to the Alma, and return by Simpheropol, Bakchi-Sarai, and Mangoup- Kalé; but as there were rumours that a grand review of the whole army was in contemplation, and the weather was still unsettled, it was deemed advisable to do such portions of the country as could be managed in the course of one day-such as the Alma, Mangoup, the forts of the north side, &c., and to wait for more settled weather and times for the grand tour, which we now proposed should extend to the south coast. Unfortunately, I was prevented by illness from joining in the excursions to the Alma and the other short trips, as well as from being present at the grand reviews of the French and English armies in the presence of General Lüders.

On Saturday 26th of April it was arranged that we should start on the 29th with six days' leave of absence; accordingly on the evening of the 28th I dined with L. and some of our party, so that we might be ready to leave the camp early the following morning. The next day we were all up booted and spurred by five o'clock, but were a little discomfited to find the country covered with a dense fog, which gave us some uneasiness about the probability of our getting a drencher at starting: we plucked up courage, and by a few minutes past six we were in the saddle and on our way. The party consisted of six persons; that is a good number for a similar excursion, as we were enough to vary the society. If the party is too small, you get tired of each other; and, on the other hand, if too large, there is apt to be a division of counsels.

As we approached the Mackenzie Heights the sun began to emerge, which made it hot work toiling up

the steep ascent: on reaching the top we found the men of the 11th Division of the Russian army paraded for church, this being the third day of the Russian Easter week. Here we began to make anxious inquiries if our baggage and servants, that started about two hours before us, had been seen, for we feared they might have missed their way in the fog; but after two or three inquiries, addressed to people we met, we discovered they were on ahead about half an hour before us, so we pushed along merrily over the beautiful turf, admiring the scenery. We caught our baggage at the Belbek, and discovered that the servant of I., with a led pack-animal, had thought he knew the road better than any one else, and had gone astray in the plain of Balaklava, long before they reached Traktir bridge, the scene of the battle of August 16. Poor I. was much annoyed at this, and thought of returning, for, in order to lighten his own horse, he had put all his things upon that of the servant and the pack animal. At the Belbek were large Russian camps, partly deserted when we passed; there were, however, some batteries of artillery that appeared to be without horses; for though the guns were visible, no animals to move them could be seen. The valleys of the Belbek and Katcha are fine, and appear very fertile. The view of the valley of the Belbek, looking upwards from the bridge, is remarkable, from the number of isolated rocks that stand boldly out in fine relief against the background of verdant hills. Before reaching the bridge there is also a curious ruin of an old tower, which is ascribed, like everything else in this country, to the Genoese. What struck us as extraordinary was, that the greater part of the orchards appeared to be untouched, notwithstanding the large numbers of Russian troops that had been encamped in their vicinity during the war; and the Russian soldier is proverbially no respecter of private property when in want of firewood or other necessaries.

The town of Ba

were in a hole; you cannot see it from the road till you are in it. Here we saw a large body of militia on the march northwards. The town itself is quite Oriental in character, and consists of one long and dirty street through the centre of a narrow valley, with queer little alleys and nooks running out of it. The inhabitants are chiefly Tartar and Karaite Jews, though at this time there were a great many Russian officers and soldiers to be seen about the streets. One of the latter addressed us in very good French; most probably he was a degraded noble. The only place to be seen is the palace of the ancient khans, the style of which is remarkable, and shows a good deal of taste, though of rather a rude kind. At the time of our visit this palace was filled with Russian sick. The way in which we discovered this was singular and characteristic. Just outside the gates of the palace is the only hotel in Bakchi-Sarai-kept by a German, I believe. There we met a Russian, who assured us that the small amount of sickness in the Russian army was extraordinary; that there were scarcely any cases of epidemic diseases. We asked him if visitors were allowed to go over the palace, as, if possible, we wished to do so. He advised us not to think of such a thing, as the place was full of sick, chiefly fever patients. Evidently our friend had forgotten the statement he had just made to us about the absence of epidemic diseases in the Russian army.

Having rested and baited our horses as well as ourselves, we again set out for Tchufut-Kalé, the ancient city of the Karaite Jews, who pretend to have settled here about four hundred years before the birth of Christ, and trace their history from that period down to the present time. They are a sect of the Jewish nation that claims to be the purest, as they have never acknowledged the teaching of the Talmud, and on account of their resistance to the false doctrines therein contained they separated themselves from the Jew ish nation, and left Jerusalem abou 545 B.C., and, after wandering abou Persia and Media, they aided King Ca in the conquest of the

Crimea, which he had undertaken for the purpose of revenging himself on Queen Talmira, who had murdered his father. King Cambyse, having succeeded, divided the country among his followers, who returned to Asia for their families, and finally settled here, the Karaites choosing Tchufut-Kalé for their headquarters, which it has continued to be ever since.

The distance from Bakchi-Sarai to Tchufut-Kalé is about two miles, and runs along the bottom of a narrow rocky valley, on each side of which are queer-looking little Tartar cemeteries, and in one place there is a village of Crimean gypsies, the inhabitants of which, in the hope of receiving a few copecks, insisted upon conducting us in triumph with the most discordant music imaginable. The remarkable feature of the place is, that on reaching TchufutKalé, the valley, hitherto exceedingly narrow, suddenly expands, with a long, narrow, isolated, and almost inaccessible rock in the centre, dividing it into two. To the right there is a Russian monastery, with cells, chapels, &c. hewn out of the solid rock; but as we were pressed for time, we did not climb up to it, but pushed on for the city of the Jews, which, from below, it appears impossible to enter, so precipitous are its sides; but at last we came to a zigzag path, and, leaving our horses below, begin to toil up the steep ascent exposed to a hot sun, which was excessively fatiguing, heavily booted as we were. When you are within the place, which is entered by strong gates, the effect is most extraordinary, as you see long streets of dead walls paved with the solid rock, across which occasionally flits a veiled figure that would instantly disappear: these we supposed to be some of their fair ladies, no doubt prompted by curiosity to take a peep at the doughty warriors of the West. One of the wonders of this wonderful place, which appeared to me like a city of the dead, is a mausoleum to the meory of a young Tartar princess who called Nenekedjan-Khanim, or habitation of the lovely soul." young lady, our guide, who an, related the following

legend: The old khan, her father, having to fight some of his enemies, and being unable himself, from fat or old age, or both, to command his army, he intrusted it to his only child, the beautiful lady with the hard name above mentioned, who succeeded in defeating these enemies, said to have been the Genoese, but at the same time conceived a highly improper passion for one of her father's officers, who appears to have encouraged and taken pleasure in her advances; till the old gentleman, being informed of the circumstance by some envious individual about his court, caught them together, and slew them both with his own hand, erecting, or rather causing to be erected, this monument_as a warning to all future lovers. Inside the mausoleum there is a large stone in the form of a sarcophagus, on which are inscribed sundry passages in Turkish, said to be from the Koran, and relating to the unhappy end of the possessor of this splendid tomb; but as none of us could read them, we were obliged to take it for granted, as we did the above legend. The synagogue is a curious old place, and one is struck with the immense number of lamps and chandeliers suspended from the ceiling, some brass, but the greater part sil

ver.

There is also a large silver vase or cup, presented by the present Dowager-Empress, of which they seem amazingly proud; it is kept in a glass case on a pedestal, on which there is an inscription in Russian and Hebrew, relating the date and other particulars of this present, which, though I read it with great attention, I have quite forgotten. There are here some caves, said to be interesting, but as we wished to reach Simpheropol that night, we did not visit them. The cemetery, called the Valley of Jehosaphat, where some of the monuments are said to bear inscriptions dating more than a thousand years ago, is a beautiful spot. As a fortress, Tchufut-Kalé appears to have been impregnable, were it not for one thing the want of water. That indispensable article the inhabitants are obliged to fetch from springs below, which must be anything but an agreeable occupation for the ponies

engaged in it, especially during the winter months, when the steep rocky ascent is covered with ice and frozen snow. A subterranean passage is said to exist leading to the spring whence the inhabitants obtain their water, but we did not see it. In ancient times, they say, there were springs on the rock itself, but they are now dry. The number of houses in ruins strikes one; but they told us that there are now only a tithe of the original number of inhabitants, which at one time amounted to a

thousand families.

We heard that there was a road from Tchufut-Kalé which we could take, that would lead us into the main road to Simpheropol at the Alma, and we had been promised a guide, but he was not forthcoming, so we pushed on alone, and managed to lose our way. My knowledge of Russian here stood us in good stead, for after a few inquiries, and a ride through some thick brushwood, we got right again, following the course of the river Bodrak, which we forded and reforded at least a dozen times, as it wound from side to side of a narrow and rather precipitous valley. This, continually wetting the legs of the horses, freshened them wonderfully, as they began by this time to show strong symptoms of fatigue; mine would insist upon trying the flavour of the water at each ford. We reached and forded the Alma, about twenty miles from the battlefield, opposite the post station, where we found a large body of Russian militiamen on their way home halted for the night. As it was growing dark, and we were yet ten miles from Simpheropol, a council of war was held as to the propriety of remaining for the night where we were-sleeping on the ground with our blankets, as there were no houses except those that were already overcrowded by the militia-or pushing on to Simpheropol. It was decided that we should go on, and I had volunteered to trot on ahead with any one else who liked to accompany me, in order to secure the best accommodation we could find, and then return to meet the rest of the party with the baggage, and convoy them into the desired haven. It was quite der

time we reached Simpheropol; but, fortunately for us, it was the Emperor's birthday, and the streets were illuminated in consequence, which certainly saved our horses' knees, by enabling us to avoid the holes and ruts in the road. The first hotel we visited we were informed that they had excellent accommodation for us and our horses; but, upon minute inquiry, we found that they expected us to sleep in the public coffee-room of the house, where people were likely to remain till morning drinking champagne. Upon our suggesting that the arrangement did not conduce to our comfort, we were coolly informed that ten other persons were going to sleep in the same room! This decided us that, if we fared worse, we would go farther. We next called at the Golden Anchor, where they would not have us at all. I began to think I had undertaken a task that I could not execute, when we stumbled upon the Hôtel d'Odessa, where we were again refused admittance; but by dint of a little soft sawder to the master, a thorough Russian merchant, and a hint that he might expect to be well paid, he agreed to let us have one of the coffee-rooms, of which there were three,* to ourselves, and a stable for two horses, which was all we required. Leaving my horse, I took an isvoshtchick-a public droshky that supplies in Russia the place of cabs; the term "isvoshtchick" is applied to the driver or the whole turn-out-and started in quest of the remainder of the party, whom I found already in the town. When we again reached the hotel, the isvoshtchick tried to impose upon me -for cabby will be cabby all the world over; but a few words of most energetic Russian slang caused him to stare, and say that, though I was an English officer, I was as good as theirs. We obtained a very good dinner, and the prices, considering all things, were very moderate

champagne at £1, and porter at 10s. the bottle. After we had discussed our dinner, a number of Russian officers arrived from the theatre, evidently with the intention of making a night of it; they drank nothing but champagne, placing lighted candles in the bottles as they were emptied. I afterwards learnt three of them were to leave the next morning for the interior, and to celebrate their departure this party was given. I was talking with a Russian officer, not of their party, and just thinking of the luxury of lying down after the ride of upwards of fifty miles that we had done that day, when I found myself suddenly seized by two of the party, while a third pushed me on behind, and, thrusting me into a chair, fairly installed me a member of their society, merely because they had heard me conversing in their language, which, to them, was extraordinary, as it is so little known out of the country. Not wishing to remain quite alone with these jovial fellows, I pleaded an excuse that I could not desert my party; this caused J. C. and K. to be invited to join us ; L. and D. were in bed in the next room, though I suspect they got little sleep. There were already two Englishmen of the party who had been to the theatre with them. The cheering that followed each popular toast was astounding, and only equalled by the swelling tones of the organ that played incessantly. What was the quantity of champagne consumed I have no conception. I only know that the table was in a blaze of illumination that far surpassed what we had seen in the streets. Somebody said he counted the candles, and made nearly forty of them-this must be an exaggeration, as there were not more than fourteen of us. The soul of the party was a Russian colonel, Baron M., who insisted upon embracing and kissing everybody he could after each

toast, much to the annoyance of my friends, who did not like at first being hugged in this way; but they soon got used to it, and gave the Baron's health with three times three, which was followed by a polka to the music of the organ, and to the destruction of sundry glasses by the upsetting of a table. When order had been in some degree restored, the Russians proposed the health of Queen Victoria, to which we were not slow to respond, the Russians joining us in hearty and heartfelt cheers; and on my proposing, in return, the health of the lovely and accomplished Empress of all the Russias (the Emperor's health had already been drunk), my countrymen, observing the enthusiasm with which the Russians received my speech in their own language, and not understanding its import, nor having any knowledge of my intentions, broke into a roaring chorus of "He's a jolly good fellow!" Our friends did not exactly understand this, and asked me the meaning of the song, thinking it an impromptu "God preserve the Empress ;" but on my explaining what it really was, and how it came to be sung so mal apropos, they laughed heartily at the malentendu, while my countrymen were still in the dark as to whom they had so noisily pronounced to be a jolly good fellow, and peals upon peals of laughter followed when they all learned the subject of the toast, which was afterwards drunk again with due honour and respect. What the hour was when we retired I know not; but after two or three ineffectual attempts to escape, I was obliged to sit it out. Even here I had a specimen of the Russian system. An officer, a stranger to the rest, drew me aside, and began expatiating on the evils of the Russian Government, when, notwithstanding all the élan and harmony of the meeting, another officer, one of the party, approached us, having overheard no doubt the subject of our conversation, and inquired the name and country of my interlocutor, announcing himself as an officer of police, and intimating that most probably my friend would hear the next day from that quarter.

The next morning I did not feel

very fresh after the orgie of the night before; but we sallied forth to view the town, which is of the most uninteresting description, like nearly all Russian towns. We got out of it soon after two o'clock, without any regret, though I had had time to make the acquaintance of some agreeable people, who gave me most cordial invitations to return and stay at their houses. The ride from Simpheropol towards Alushta, along the course of the Salghir, was delightful, with the Chatir-Dagh and the mountains of the south coast inviting us on, as it were; but we resisted the temptation, having previously determined to pass the night at a village called Mahmut Sultan, the residence and property of a rich Tartar whom I knew slightly. On reaching the house, we found to our regret, that the master was at Simpheropol, but the steward or major-domo insisted on our remaining the night, introducing us to his master's son, a boy about twelve, who did the honours in a most gentlemanlike way; in fact, we all agreed that the Tartars at home are in every respect perfect gentlemen, and it is only when the contact with the Russians has been too great that this manner, and, I believe, feeling, have become extinct. The majordomo provided stabling for all our animals, turning out a valuable horse of his master's to make room for ours, twelve in number; upon my remonstrating with him, he replied that his master would never allow his own horses to remain in the stable while those of his guests were left out. After the horses were properly cared for, we were ushered into a large room, with a sofa covered with splendid silk and brocade occupying two sides of it, while another side was occupied by a table and chairs in the EuropeanRussian style. We were scarcely seated before coffee was produced; after partaking of that refreshment we went for a stroll in the rather pretty grounds, along the end of which runs, clear and rapid, the Salghir; from which there is a canal that, after passing and supplying the house, runs through and irrigates the garden, where it puts in m wheels of a small and picturesque mill. The