lost in the distant horizon. To the north the same alpine sort of prospect attracts the eye, and although it does not exhibit much variety, yet, as the back-ground is composed of mountains in part covered with wood, the general dreary and desolate appearance of such scenes is lessened; and the thriving plantations to the right, with the lawn in the fore-ground, afford an agreeable relief to the eye, which when fatigued with the sameness of large masses, recurs to these softer objects with more pleasure. But though the whole view presents a peculiar wildness, as if nature were in her undress, it fills the mind with sublime sensations, far superior to that kind of pleasure produced by a place fantastically loaded with the most laboured embellishments of art, which are often the production of false taste or caprice. Here nature, free and unadorned, fills up the canvass at every point, and with an extent of figure and form which renders alpine scenery so impressive.

On leaving this place I soon descended from the mountains of Wicklow into the level and fertile county of Carlow, where I experienced a very extraordinary change in regard to myself, for as I advanced farther from Ballybeg, my spirits sunk in the same ratio, and when I arrived at the low grounds, I found them as flat as the country around me. I could not help therefore casting a look back to the elevated scenery which had inspired me with such exalted sensations; which I had beheld with rapture, and which was still strongly imprinted on my memory, but with a mixed sensation of pleasure and regret.

On the 14th of March, 1809, I walked from Wicklow to the residence of Mr. Synge, which stands at the entrance of the Devil's Glen. On the right appeared the sea at a distance, extending from Wicklow Head to another mountain; beneath me a glen, with a mountain stream running along its bottom; opposite to it cultivated hills, and on the right rocky promontories. The climate and soil seem here to be peculiarly congenial to evergreens, which are planted around the house, and disposed with much ́taste in such a manner as to produce a very fine effect. The deep green of the Weymouth pine, intermixed with that of the larch, and other firs, adds much to the beauty of the grounds, and on the whole this is a handsome and agreeable place.

Myrtles flourish here in such profusion that Mr. Beaumont of High Park, near Gorey, has known them to be used for making stable brooms. It is not therefore to be wondered at that evergreens of all kinds should attain in this country to a size that astonishes strangers. The common laurel, Portugal laurel, and arbutus, become so large and luxuriant that they can scarcely be recognised as the same shrubs. The principal timber in the rocky glens is oak, and in all the modern plantations the beautiful larch occupies a most conspicuous place.

In this county there are no navigable rivers, but abundance of smaller streams, which running down from the mountains with great rapidity, discharge their waters into the sea. Noblemen's and gentlemen's seats are numerous, as those fond of rural

retreats are attracted hither by the vicinity of the capital, by the romantic beauties which every where almost abound, and the uncommon mildness of the climate.

The breadth of the channel between the coast of Wicklow and Britain, does not appear to be great, for from Altidore, when the weather was clear, I could plainly see the high land on the opposite shore. I was at Altidore on the 17th of May, 1809, and wrote the following memorandum which will serve to convey some idea of the sensations I experienced on entering this delightful country. "Came by the Glen of the Downs to this place; the particularly delightful season of the year, and the contrast occasioned by my leaving the confined air of Dublin, a large city, in which I had been immured for several weeks, may perhaps heighten my admiration of the country; but the tints exhibited by the foliage of the trees, the mountains covered with verdure as far as there is any soil, the glens, the tout-ensemble, are certainly enchanting."

Having seen and enjoyed the beauties of Wicklow, I am apprehensive that those acquainted with them will be of opinion that I have done them very little justice. My descriptions are only faint sketches comprehending the leading features, but I am not without hope that some superior genius, possessing talents fitted for the task may direct his steps thither, and inspired by the magic influence of the surrounding scenes, give a just and correct delineation of them. The painter and the poet would here find ample scope for the exercise of their different talents.

The vale of Glendallogh which I visited on the 20th of May, 1809, forms a most impressive scene, and deserves much more particular notice than I have paid to it. Luggela also is no less interesting on account of a singular lake, called Lough Tay, so completely depressed in a hollow, surrounded by dreary mountains, that it cannot be seen till you are unexpectedly surprised by its sudden appearance. The mountains which form the sides of this abyss are exceedingly rugged and barren. Beyond the lake is an expanse of green lawn, together with some plantations; in the midst of which stands a banquetting cottage belonging to Mr. Latouche, screened by a mountain or ridge rising behind it. On ascending this ridge, which my horse attained with considerable difficulty, I followed the military road for some miles of country, in which I saw neither inhabitants nor traces of cultivation, till I reached the vale of Glendallogh. After the dreary prospects I had beheld in passing through an extensive tract where it may be truly said, "the desolated prospect thrills the soul." I was most agreeably surprised to find myself all at once, as if dropped from the clouds, in the midst of a glen surrounded by the plantations of Mr. Critchly, between which and the road a small river pursues its wandering course. The venerable remains of the Seven Churches just began to appear; beyond them stood a round tower ninety-five feet in height, and still further on a mountain of no great elevation, but raising its head considerably above the tower. On the left of it the mountains

opening afford a view of a lake, but being unadorned with wood, it makes a less picturesque appearance. Still to the left is seen another line of mountains, but not of such magnitude as to entitle them to the epithets of awful or terrific. The deep silence, however, which prevails here, the unexpected sight of ruins, the majestic tower, and the mountains rising behind it, objects which if insulated might create very little interest, produce, when grouped into one landscape, a very striking effect.

PROVINCE OF MUNSTER.

MUNSTER, the most southern province of Ireland, is bounded on the north by Leinster and Connaught, and on the east, west, and south, by the ocean. Its ancient name was Mumhan, derived from the old Celtic Mamman, or the county of the Great Mother, and in latter ages it was divided into Desmond, or South Munster; Ormond, or East Munster; and Thomond, or North Munster. It comprehends 9276 English square miles; and contains six counties, viz. Clare, Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Tipperary, and Waterford.

CLARE.

Clare is a maritime county, bounded to the south and east by the Shannon, and on the west by the ocean. It contains 1125 English square miles. The sea coast by which it is bordered consists of a chain of basaltic rocks, on which account sailors distinguish it by the epithet of " iron bound." Towards the centre of it an arm of the sea, or rather of the Shannon, runs off to Ennis, and is known by the name of the Fergus River. The county is remarkably bare of wood, and abounds so much with limestone, that whole tracts are entirely beds of it; the surface even has the appear

The banks of the Fergus and Shannon are bordered with rich marshes, which afford excellent pasture, and the former present some romantic scenery worthy of attention. On the 12th of October, 1808, I had a view of the Rev. Dr. Parker's, at Ballyvalley, near Killaloe, standing on the opposite side of the river. After passing the foot of the bridge, looking back near the Palace of Killaloe, the river is seen precipitating itself down a small fall with great velocity, while the bridge, consisting of twenty-nine stone arches, each twenty feet span, and the immense sheet of water presented by Lough Derg, appearing in the distant prospect, add to the grandeur and VOL. I.

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beauty of the scene, which is still farther diversified by the town on the opposite bank of the river, placed on a hill rising above the bridge, and ornamented with its cathedral, an ancient and venerable building, the whole contrasted by mountain scenery, forming the back-ground of the prospect. The mountains want nothing but wood to give them a more romantic appearance.

Returning to Killaloe, I took a view of the cathedral, and another ancient building, both of which have been fully described by Sir Richard Hoare.* Making a Tour to the right, I proceeded to Ballyvalley, a place of modern creation, well planted with timber and in a state of great improvement. However much I admired the prospect on the other side of the bridge, as I now stood on higher ground I found it here improved; comprehending the contrary side of the bridge, the cathedral seen in another point of view; mountains not visible at the former station, and the Shannon, swelled to its noblest expanse in Lough Derg, and gliding past in a most magnificent style under the windows. The plantations here, though young, are in a thriving condition, and seem to have been arranged and distributed to the best advantage. In front of the house is a neat lawn, bounded by the Shannon, which forms no small addition to the scene. Behind it, to the north-east, stands a mountain called Crag, once covered with oaks, which being church property, were without mercy cut down by an avaricious bishop, who seems to have been fonder of money than of the sublime beauties of nature.

In the district between Lough Derg and Ennis, there are some gentlemen's seats, the most remarkable of which is that of Sir Edward O'Brien, at Dromoland. It consists of a venerable mansion built in the taste of former times, where every thing bespeaks antiquity of family, though great exertions have been made to give to the whole all those modern improvements which the unevenness of the ground was capable of receiving. When the plantations are completed it will be a residence truly delightful.

On the 28th of October, 1809, on my way to Kilrush, after leaving Bungragy, and just before I came to Paradise Hill, I lost the limestone, and I learned that there is none west of the place last mentioned. From the top of the hill on the banks of the Shannon, the view is most magnificent; it includes the river stretching up to Limerick, and the city itself bounded by high lands on the opposite shore. On the left the Fergus River extends inland to Ennis, and at the junction of the rivers are a number of islands, one of which, called Canna, presents a very picturesque appearance by the ruins of an ancient abbey, which has one of its turrets still entire. Immediately beneath is a large island called Tory Island, and the Shannon is seen, with a widened surface, proceeding towards the ocean. The whole forms a grand natural panorama, but almost without the sight of a tree.

* Journal of a Tour in Ireland, p. 36.

After leaving Paradise Hill, I pursued a new line of road, through the interior of the country, to Mr. Hickman's, at Kilmore, a beautiful place on the edge of Clonderlough Bay, nearly opposite to Tarbert. Here again the Shannon breaks upon the view in a very magnificent manner, and from Kilmore to Kilrush I coasted along its

banks.'

On the 30th of October, 1809, I arrived at Ennistymond, after passing through a large tract of country badly cultivated, to Hag's Head, on which is a telegraph, now neglected. The view from this promontory is exceedingly grand. According to the account of the neighbouring peasants, the clifts rise to the height of 1300 feet above the level of the sea; but I had no means of obtaining an accurate measurement of them. They are almost perpendicular; consist of basaltic rock lying in horizontal strata, and extending northward with nearly the same elevation run out into the sea. In the distant view, looking towards the north, is seen the Bay of Galway, bounded by the high lands of Connamara: beneath, the isles of Arran, which consist of limestone, and more impressive than all, the grand Atlantic Ocean, dashing with majestic force its mighty waves against the tremendous cliffs, which seem, with sullen pride, to scorn their efforts, and to set their impotent fury at defiance. Nature here presents herself in her most awful form, and exhibits, particularly during storms, some of the most astonishing and sublime scenes that the eye can behold. The projecting masses of rock, jagged and broken in all directions, assume a variety of fantastic forms, and contribute to render the view still more terrific. But the eye is not the only organ which is affected on this occasion: the ear is sometimes wonderfully struck by the loud roaring of the waves, thrown up at one time into the air in the form of spray by their collision with these ragged masses; again retiring to repeat their vain attack, and often uniting, so as to form immense waves, which, swelling as they rise, seem ready to sweep every thing before them. I could see the surge, though at the distance of ten miles, breaking over some sunken rocks near Arran, which are called the Cliffs of Mohir, together with that part of the coast over them, which is known by the name of Dooland's Land. A part of the famous Spanish Armada was wrecked on this coast in the year 1588.

On the 29th of October, 1809, I was at Miltown Malbay, an estate belonging to Mr. Morony, which consists of a large bank, running down to the sea, facing the south-west. The whole of this" iron-bound" coast is distinguished by the name of Malbay, because it has no harbour into which vessels can run for shelter and remain in safety. Trees do not thrive in this part of the country; but fine sea views, the elevation of the land and dryness of the soil, excellent roads, and a cheerful neighbourhood, render it highly agreeable as a bathing place. A curious phenomenon is observed here at a cavern called the Puffing Hole, which I was induced to visit.