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1914

A JOURNEY IN SOUTH AMERICA

to impress one with the belief that the present prosperity which it enjoys must rapidly increase. The natural conditions point convincingly to such a conclusion, and the Chileans themselves are such a progressive, determined people, united in their love for their beautiful country and the desire to promote its development, that the future of Chile seems very bright.

Ever since the birth of the Republic the welcome extended to foreigners has been in keeping with the hospitality for which the Spanish race is famed, and this has resulted in a broad, cosmopolitan spirit; but, though the Chileans make the stranger welcome, no prouder or more sensitive people exist. They are not arrogant, but they have a proper patriotic pride, and they are quick to resent any action or attitude which is not in keeping with their high sense of personal and national dignity. In the more intimate relations with our sister Republic which will be brought about by the opening of the Panama Canal it will be well for us to remember this.

ALONG THE WEST COAST

From Valparaiso to Callao, and from Callao on northward until the Guayaquil River is reached, the steamer is never out of sight of land. The course follows the straight line of the shore, usually hugging it so closely that the surf can be seen breaking at the foot of the arid mountains. The higher summits to the eastward have robbed the winds of their moisture by the time they reach the coast, so that from the deck of the steamer the traveler looks upon a region as bleak and often as weirdly fantastic in contour as the landscapes Doré painted to illustrate Dante's verse. League upon league of land destitute of all vegetation is passed; but, despite its barrenness, the prospect is made interesting by the vividness of the coloring. In the changing In the changing lights of morning, noon, and evening one may see displayed upon the peaks and in the valleys all the colors of the spectrum, from red to violet, with the striking exception, of green, which lack the tossing sea in the foreground supplies. For two thousand miles or more the ship sails under the lee of these hot, desert mountains which need only the touch of water to convert them into hanging gardens of tropical luxuriance.

A heavy swell is constant, and at times causes the ship to roll uncomfortably, particularly when the vessel is at anchor; but, for

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the most part, the voyage along the western coast of South America, where storms are very rare, resembles a yachting cruise more than the ocean trip to which Atlantic travelers are accustomed. The Humboldt current, sweeping up from the Antarctic, keeps the journey toward the equator from becoming uncomfortably hot.

Sea birds, flying-fishes, and the larger inhabitants of the ocean, porpoises and whales, are companions of the voyage in sufficient numbers to divert the attention from the seemingly endless panorama of reddish mountain land. At times thousands of birds are to be seen in the air at once, and occasionally a guano island is passed that is literally covered with birds.

THE CAPITAL OF PERU

The harbor of Callao is an excellent one, but as yet the ships do not come alongside the piers. Only seven miles from Callao is Lima. Lima. The individual and picturesque character of the city and the romantic and brilliant part it has played in American history unite to make it irresistibly attractive to the visitor. There are many evidences of the modern spirit of progress in Lima. Wide streets, beautiful squares, crowded business thoroughfares, and delightful residential districts impress the visitor with the attractiveness of the city and its commercial importance. To many travelers the main point of interest in Lima, however, is the University of San Marcos, the oldest seat of learning on the American continent. It should fill any American with pride and reverence to enter the beautiful patio of the University, climb the ancient stone stairway to the wide verandas, and visit the great halls with the portraits of rectors of the University from the time of its foundation in 1551 looking down from the walls. Through centuries of great stress, through war and revolution and untold hard. ships, earnest teachers and students of San Marcos have kept brightly burning the first lamp of learning lighted in the New World.

Peru has had to contend against great difficulties. Her remoteness from Europe and from the United States has served to isolate her, but the day of this isolation has passed or is rapidly passing. In the extent and variety of her natural resources few nations of the world are so rich, and the time must soon come when these riches will bring to her people a new era of prosperity

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greater than any which they have enjoyed although they accept most readily suggestions

in the past.

SOME GENERAL IMPRESSIONS

In speaking or in thinking of the republics of South America we are exceedingly apt to fall into the error of regarding them as a whole. The ten separate states are as distinct as the separate countries of Europe; the peoples constituting them differ in race, habits, and ideals; their governments, though retaining the same basic form, are really often quite dissimilar. We shall never go very far toward improving our relations with the Latin-American republics, either in the matter of intellectual intercourse or of commerce, until we have made ourselves familiar with the separate nations, and by study or actual contact learn to make the necessary distinctions between them. A true understanding of our neighbors can come only with a knowledge of their separate histories, of their heroes, of the epics of valor and perseverance of each republic, and of the races, native and European, from which the people have sprung.

The day has gone by when a majority of these countries, laboriously building up a governmental structure, under tremendous difficulties, were in constant fear of the danger of instability. Now all the more. important republics are firmly established and no longer live in the shadow of dictatorships or unconstitutional rule. They "have passed," to use the words of Mr. Root, "out of the condition of militarism, out of the condition of revolution, into the condition of industrialism, into the paths of successful commerce, and are becoming great and powerful nations." With this development has come material progress and prosperity which attract the attention of the world to South America and assure its increasing greatness in the future.

Although error springs from regarding the South American nations as a whole, certain characteristics are, in greater or less degree, common to all of these peoples. They are hospitable, courteous, sensitive, proud, and intensely patriotic. Whoever goes among them with a disregard of these traits is sure to produce a bad impression upon them. We of northern climes are traditionally more brusque, and brusqueness is foreign and offensive to these descendants of the hidalgas razas of the Iberian Peninsula. Their sensitiveness causes them to resent criticism,

prompted by a sincere friendship; but an attitude of superiority, too often assumed by unthinking persons of other nations, can beget only their suspicion, distrust, and contempt.

Much has been said of the rivalry that exists between the various republics. It is only natural that the rapid progress made by nations lying so close to each other should produce a spirit of keen competition in their advance toward the common goal of greatness. The same spirit is evident in nearly every country in the world. The sentiments which exist between the several nations should be respected by all who deal with them, for in that way only can one escape giving offense by apparent partiality; but I incline to the belief that much loose talking by persons ignorant of the facts and a good deal of loose thinking by careless observers have grossly exaggerated the nature of this competitive spirit.

Upon the great questions that concern the welfare of the entire continent, upon matters that relate to the advancement of humanity in general, and upon the principles of right and progress, the peoples of South America, or at least those with whom I came in contact, are united. They are believers in high ideals, and in the work for these ideals they show a solidarity that rises far above any feeling of national rivalry.

In every country which I visited I found sentiments of warmest friendship for the United States. The reported occasional public expressions by agitators of South American distrust of our purposes and motives are practically negligible in comparison with the earnest desire for the friendliest relations of our countries which one hears expressed by the real leaders of opinion everywhere.

It behooves the people of this country, however, to conduct themselves toward their Latin-American neighbors with such consideration and fairness that no cause for suspicion may arise. For our conduct we cannot do better than to remember and follow the sentiments of John Quincy Adams expressed in a special Message to the House of Representatives, explaining his action in appointing delegates to the Conference held in Panama :

The first and paramount principle upon which it was deemed wise and just to lay the cornerstone of all our future relations with them [our sister American republics] was disinterested(Continued on page following illustrations).

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This remarkable photograph was taken by an officer from the deck of a British battle ship during the naval battle off-Heligoland. One of the masts and two of the funnels of the Mainz have been shot away, and she is settling in the water

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