PAGE

DUBLIN.
Stormy voyage.. Irish Sea. . Ireland's Eye. . Royal footprints. . Travels of

sovereigns.. “ Your honours !".. Irish carriages. . The three capitals..
lucrease of Dublin.. Architecture of tlie city.. Monuments.. Churches

9

CHAPTER II.

FROM DUBLIN TO EDGEWORTHTOWN.
Stage-coaches and post-cars.. Outside paşsengers..“ All's right "..

Meath, Westmeathi!.. Appearance of the country.. Tillage.. Look
through the roofs.. Browu waters.. Mullingar.. Lakes

CHAPTER III.

16

EDGEWORTHTOWN. • They came over".. Abbé de Firmont. . Erection of a steeple.. The

Edgeworths.. Farm-houses. . The driver. . Division of farms. . Potato gardens .. Partnership.. Middlemen .. Subletting.. Leases at will.. Hereditary possession.. Ownership of the soil. . Titles of Irish landowners.. Irish language. . Arming of the rich farmers..“ We could not do without them".. Conspiracies. . Forcible possession.. Irisli reapers.. Their wanderings. . Wanderings of reapers in Europe. . The bogs.. Kinds of turf.. Iufluence of the bogs.. Drainage. . The Moat of Lisserdowling.. Naghten's Lane.. The Moat of Ward.. Danes' mounis.. Objects of their erection. The pews.. The reckoning board.. A murderstory.. Italian poplars. . Bog wood. . Irish farın-carts-Late harvests.. Little fair. . Mountebank merchants.. Gipsies. . Jews .

23

CHAPTER IV.

FROM EDGEWORTIITOWN TO THE SHANNON.
Irish jaunting-cars.. Prices.. The interior of Ireland.. Ruins..“ As it

happens, so he leaves it”.. Rags.. The dress coat. . The frieze coat..
Paddy's head-dress.. Laughing and weeping.. Wallachian and Irish
pigs.. Who pays the rent.. Plantations.. Egg markets.. Athione..
The Bog of Allen.. Coal fields. . Reproduction of turf. . Bog eruptions

Bog butter.. Shannon Harbour.. The “ goud people" and English civilization.. Milesian families.. Irish and Indian antiquity.. Old Celtic fanıily names. . Nuinber of ruins. . Struggle of the Irish with the English

The Saxons.. Climate

45

26X353

PAGE

CHAPTER V.

THE SHANNON AND THE IRISH FAIRIES.

“ The Royal Shannon".. Course of the river. . Canals. . Navigation of the

Shannon.. Canal-boats. . Hamburgh oxen. . Cattle trade. . The kingdom

of Kerry.. Princess Seinin. . Classes of spirits.. Stories of them. . Facts

.. The favourites of the fairies.. The fairies of counties.. Influence of

the belief in fairies.. The apostle of temperance.. Total abstinence.. The

blessed man. . Miracles.. Further voyage on the Shannon.. Lough Derg

and its islands. . Innis-Caltra. . St. Patrick's purgatory.. The Devil's

Bite. . Sweet Balley Valley. . New steamboat construction.. Odd manner

of travelling. . Aristotle in Ireland.. Old manuscripts. .

58

CHAPTER VI.

LIMERICK AND THE IRISH SATURDAYS.

Trade of Limerick.. English and Irish towns.. Limerick lasses and

Lancashire witches. . Pawnbrokers.. Saturday in Ireland. . Repeal..

Bagpipe-players.. Galway.. German colonists in Ireland

72

CHAPTER VII.

FROM LIMERICK TO EDENVALE.

Germany in Ireland. . Norisheen.. O'Connell and Norisheen.. Potato.

ligging.. Clare and Ennis. . The O'Briens .

76

CHAPTER VIII.

EDENVALE.

The glen.. Nature and art. . Pleasure grounds.. Evergreens.. Rooks..

Rookeries. . English and Irish servants.. Old women and visionaries..

Fairy dancing ground. . Absentees and their houses

80

CHAPTER IX.

KILRUSH AND FATHER MATHEW.

Melancholy aspect of the country.. Irish dwellings.. Nakedness and

misery.. Contrasts.. No prospect. . Murky atmosphere. . Effects. The

scare-crow.. The letter-bags. . The gleaming bit of turf.. The fairy-

land.. Thousand-and-one nights.. Travellers' tails.. Temperance halls

.. Temperance society.. “Sobriety! domestic comfort ! and national

independence !".." Craft dignified by royalty".. Father Mathew ex-

pected. . He comes ! he comes !.. Temperance bands.. Father Mathew's

appearance.. Growth of the society.. Miracle-working.. Difficulties..

Rapid progress of tenperance.. Means and motives.. Influence of

temperance.. Further details of the meeting.. Father Mathew's fluency

of speech.. Its effects.. Father Mathew's plans extend beyond Ireland

Beautiful picture..“ Order! order !".. The temperance medal..

Application of its proceeds.. Total abstinence. . Meaning of the words

· teetotaller" and a teetotalism".. Duration of temperance.. Improved

condition. . Future benefits.. Consumption of spirituous liquors in Ire-

land, England, and Scotland. . Proportion to the population

85
CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

SCATTERY ISLAND AND THE ROUND TOWERS.

PAGE

Fog on the Shannon.. Round-Tower passion.. Description of the Round

Towers.. Their number.. Pillar-temples.. Hypotheses and theories..

Fire worshippers.. Supposed intention of the Round Towers.. Con-

nexion with the East..“ The Seven Churches".. Fortification of

Soattery Island.. Mouth of the Shannon

113

CHAPTER XI.

FROM TARBERT TO TRALEE.

Public cars.. The pit. . Perseverance of a beggar.. Erinnachs, Albinnachs,

and Sassonachs.. " It is a disturbed country, and such an out-of-the-

way place”.. Irish division of labour. . Female smokers. . English in

Kerry.. Kerry-Latin.. An Irish hedge-school.. More about Father

Mathew.. A mishap.. Desolate district. . Bog stuff

121

.

CHAPTER XII,

TRALEE.

Table-talk.. Irish play.. English fire

. 127

CHAPTER XIII.

THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.

“ To pick up".. Crime in Kerry.. Fog-landscape.. Travelling mania..

Killarney.. The upper and lower lakes. . Environs of the lakes. . The

Gap of Dunloe. . Macgillicuddy's Reeks.. Kerry horses and straw har.

Turf-bog on the mountains.. Goats and wolves.. Lakes on the

mountains.. Mountain.dew.. Rounded rocks.. Excursion on the upper

lake.. An enchanted kingdom.. Colour of the shores. . Islands in the

upper lake.. Robbing the eagle's nest. . Tamed eagles.. Faithful tem-

perance men.. The lower lake. . O'Donaghue. . Innisfail. . Trees and

ruins.. Trouble in vain

128

ness..

O

CHAPTER XV.

PAGE

BANTRY, AND A VISIT TO IRISH BEGGARS.

Complaints of the fishermen.. A castle wrapped in paper.. Temperance

anecdote.. Testimonies for temperance. . Mary Sullivan. . Irish greet-

ings.. " Thanks to the great God”..“ God save you kindly”.. The

beggar's hut.. A mother's love. Tobacco indispensable to females..

“God speed ye!"

152

CHAPTER XVI.

FROM BANTRY TO CORK.

A hundred and five years old.. Bandon.. Opposition.. Mr. Bianconi..

Bianconi cars.. " Which is the road to Kerry ?”

159

CHAPTER XVII.

167

SECTION 1.-CORK.

“ Rather sharp".. Cork picture exhibition. . Branches of industry at

Cork.. The butter weigh-house.. Paddy and his bacon flitches 162

SECTION II.--PRESERVATION OF PROVISIONS.

Preserved fresh provision trade.. Advantages of this preservation. The

quays of Cork.. The quickest steamboat

164

Section III.--THE COUNTY GAOL.

Decrease of crime in Ireland. . Crime in Tipperary.. Crime in Ireland..

Neglected youth.. Juvenile offenders.. The black holes. . The bride-

well.. Paddy's dwelling-house.. Working by Cubbitt

SECTION IV.-FEVER HOSPITAL.

Frequency of fever.. Probable causes of it

. 172

SECTION V.-THE BARRACKS.

Circulation of the British army.. Recruiting.. Costly equipment.. The

red uniform:. Germans and Frenchimen in the British service. . Scarcity

of Germans in Cork

174

SECTION VI.-VOYAGE TO COVE.

The Blarney stone.. The harbours of the south of Ireland. . Pieces of

water.. The navigation wall.. Cove.. Irish lighthouses.. Salmon fishe-

ries. . The dry-rot bubble. . Convent education for young ladies..

French sympathies for Ireland. . Uncatholic exterior of Irish towns..

Irish Roman Catholicism.. Laws against Roman Catholics. . The poor

Catholics.." A silver collection is expected".. Beggars praying at the

izloors.. Library of the Bishop of Cork.. Irish apostles.. “ Felix Hiber-

" !".. Irish and English mourning.. To plume a hearse. . Protestant

condiçatholic hotels, . Taking a shop by storm

. 177

land, E.