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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
DUBLIN.
PAGE
Stormy voyage.. Irish Sea.. Ireland's Eye.. Royal footprints.. Travels of
sovereigns.." Your honours!".. Irish carriages.. The three capitals..
Increase of Dublin.. Architecture of the city.. Monuments.. Churches 9
CHAPTER II.
FROM DUBLIN TO EDGEWORTHTOWN.
Stage-coaches and post-cars.. Outside passengers..“ All's right "....
Meath, Westmeathi!.. Appearance of the country.. Tillage.. Look
through the roofs.. Brown waters.. Mullingar.. Lakes
CHAPTER III.
EDGEWORTHTOWN.
"They came over".. Abbé de Firmont.. Erection of a steeple.. The
Edgeworths.. Farm-houses.. The driver.. Division of farms.. Potato
gardens.. Partnership.. Middlemen.. Subletting.. Leases at will..
Hereditary possession.. Ownership of the soil.. Titles of Irish land-
owners.. Irish language.. Arming of the rich farmers.. "We could not
do without them".. Conspiracies.. Forcible possession.. Irish reapers..
Their wanderings.. Wanderings of reapers in Europe.. The bogs..
Kinds of turf.. Influence of the bogs.. Drainage.. The Moat of Lisser-
dowling.. Naghten's Lane.. The Moat of Ward.. Danes' mounts..
Objects of their erection.. The pews.. The reckoning board.. A murder-
story.. Italian poplars.. Bog wood.. Irish farm-carts-Late harvests..
Little fair.. Mountebank merchants.. Gipsies.. Jews .
CHAPTER IV.
FROM EDGEWORTIITOWN TO THE SHANNON.
Irish jaunting-cars.. Prices.. The interior of Ireland.. Ruins.." As it
happens, so he leaves it".. Rags.. The dress coat.. The frieze coat..
Paddy's head-dress.. Laughing and weeping.. Wallachian and Irish
pigs.. Who pays the rent.. Plantations.. Egg markets.. Athione..
The Bog of Allen.. Coal fields.. Reproduction of turf.. Bog eruptions
.. Bog butter.. Shannon Harbour.. The " good people" and English
civilization.. Milesian families.. Irish and Indian antiquity.. Old Celtic
family names.. Number of ruins.. Struggle of the Irish with the English
.. The Saxons.. Climate
16
23
45
26x358
CHAPTER V.
THE SHANNON AND THE IRISH FAIRIES.
"The Royal Shannon".. Course of the river.. Canals.. Navigation of the
Shannon.. Canal-boats.. Hamburgh oxen.. Cattle trade.. The kingdom
of Kerry.. Princess Seinin.. Classes of spirits.. Stories of them.. Facts
.. The favourites of the fairies.. The fairies of counties.. Influence of
the belief in fairies.. The apostle of temperance.. Total abstinence.. The
blessed man.. Miracles.. Further voyage on the Shannon.. Lough Derg
and its islands.. Innis-Caltra.. St. Patrick's purgatory.. The Devil's
Bite.. Sweet Balley Valley.. New steamboat construction.. Odd manner
of travelling.. Aristotle in Ireland.. Old manuscripts. .
CHAPTER VI.
LIMERICK AND THE IRISH SATURDAYS.
Trade of Limerick.. English and Irish towns.. Limerick lasses and
Lancashire witches.. Pawnbrokers.. Saturday in Ireland.. Repeal..
Bagpipe-players.. Galway.. German colonists in Ireland
CHAPTER VII.
FROM LIMERICK TO EDENVALE.
Germany in Ireland.. Norisheen.. O'Connell and Norisheen.. Potato-
digging.. Clare and Ennis.. The O'Briens.
58
72
. 76
CHAPTER VIII.
EDENVALE.
The glen.. Nature and art.. Pleasure grounds.. Evergreens.. Rooks..
Rookeries.. English and Irish servants.. Old women and visionaries..
Fairy dancing ground.. Absentees and their houses
CHAPTER IX.
KILRUSH AND FATHER MATHEW.
Melancholy aspect of the country.. Irish dwellings.. Nakedness and
misery.. Contrasts.. No prospect.. Murky atmosphere.. Effects.. The
scare-crow.. The letter-bags.. The gleaming bit of turf.. The fairy-
land.. Thousand-and-one nights.. Travellers' tails.. Temperance halls
.Temperance society.. "Sobriety! domestic comfort! and national
independence!".. "Craft dignified by royalty".. Father Mathew ex-
pected.. He comes! he comes!.. Temperance bands.. Father Mathew's
appearance.. Growth of the society.. Miracle-working.. Difficulties..
Rapid progress of temperance.. Means and motives.. Influence of
temperance.. Further details of the meeting.. Father Mathew's fluency
of speech.. Its effects.. Father Mathew's plans extend beyond Ireland
Beautiful picture.. "Order! order!".. The temperance medal..
Application of its proceeds.. Total abstinence.. Meaning of the words
teetotaller" and "teetotalism".. Duration of temperance.. Improved
condition.. Future benefits.. Consumption of spirituous liquors in Ire-
land, England, and Scotland.. Proportion to the population
80
85
CHAPTER X.
SCATTERY ISLAND AND THE ROUND TOWERS.
Fog on the Shannon.. Round-Tower passion.. Description of the Round
Towers.. Their number.. Pillar-temples.. Hypotheses and theories..
Fire worshippers.. Supposed intention of the Round Towers.. Con-
nexion with the East.." The Seven Churches".. Fortification of
Soattery Island.. Mouth of the Shannon
CHAPTER XI.
FROM TARBERT TO TRALEE.
Public cars.. The pit.. Perseverance of a beggar.. Erinnachs, Albinnachs,
and Sassonachs.. "It is a disturbed country, and such an out-of-the-
way place".. Irish division of labour.. Female smokers.. English in
Kerry.. Kerry-Latin.. An Irish hedge-school.. More about Father
Mathew.. A mishap.. Desolate district.. Bog stuff
CHAPTER XII,
TRALEE.
113
121
ness..
CHAPTER XIII.
THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
"To pick up".. Crime in Kerry.. Fog-landscape.. Travelling mania..
Killarney.. The upper and lower lakes.. Environs of the lakes.. The
Gap of Dunloe.. Macgillicuddy's Reeks.. Kerry horses and straw har-
Turf-bog on the mountains.. Goats and wolves.. Lakes on the
mountains.. Mountain-dew.. Rounded rocks.. Excursion on the upper
lake.. An enchanted kingdom.. Colour of the shores.. Islands in the
upper lake.. Robbing the eagle's nest.. Tamed eagles.. Faithful tem-
perance men.. The lower lake.. O'Donaghue,. Innisfail.. Trees and
ruins.. Trouble in vain
CHAPTER XIV.
FROM KILLARNEY TO BANTRY.
Mucruss Abbey.. The Devil's Punch-bowl.. New road over Turk Moun-
tain.. Police station.. Irish constables.. The most disturbed county..
Wild plum-trees.. O'Connell's country-seat.. Tories on a visit to
O'Connell.. Discovery of America from Ireland.. Irish towns in the
possession of great landowners.. Irish suspension bridge.. The Kerry
mountains.. Potato fields and school-houses.. The O'Sullivans and
M'Carthys.. The pipe of peace.. The county of Cork.. Rent.. Ca-
sand.. Bantry Bay.. The oyster cure
128
gal 214
CHAPTER XV.
BANTRY, AND A VISIT TO IRISH BEGGARS.
Complaints of the fishermen.. A castle wrapped in paper.. Temperance
anecdote.. Testimonies for temperance.. Mary Sullivan.. Irish greet-
ings.." Thanks to the great God".." God save you kindly".. The
beggar's hut.. A mother's love..Tobacco indispensable to females..
"God speed ye!"
. 152
CHAPTER XVI.
FROM BANTRY TO CORK.
A hundred and five years old.. Bandon.. Opposition.. Mr. Bianconi..
Bianconi cars.. "Which is the road to Kerry?"
CHAPTER XVII.
SECTION I.-CORK.
159
"Rather sharp".. Cork picture exhibition.. Branches of industry at
Cork.. The butter weigh-house.. Paddy and his bacon flitches . 162
SECTION II.-PRESERVATION OF PROVISIONS.
Preserved fresh provision trade.. Advantages of this preservation.. The
quays of Cork.. The quickest steamboat
SECTION III. THE COUNTY GAOL.
Decrease of crime in Ireland.. Crime in Tipperary.. Crime in Ireland..
Neglected youth.. Juvenile offenders.. The black holes.. The bride-
well.. Paddy's dwelling-house.. Working by Cubbitt
SECTION IV.-FEVER HOSPITAL.
Frequency of fever.. Probable causes of it
SECTION V.-THE BARRACKS.
Circulation of the British army.. Recruiting.. Costly equipment.. The
red uniform.. Germans and Frenchmen in the British service.. Scarcity
of Germans in Cork
SECTION VI.-VOYAGE TO COVE.
164
. 167
. 172
The Blarney stone.. The harbours of the south of Ireland.. Pieces of
water.. The navigation wall. . Cove.. Irish lighthouses.. Salmon fishe-
ries.. The dry-rot bubble.. Convent education for young ladies..
French sympathies for Ireland.. Uncatholic exterior of Irish towns..
Irish Roman Catholicism.. Laws against Roman Catholics.. The poor
Catholics.." A silver collection is expected".. Beggars praying at the
loors.. Library of the Bishop of Cork.. Irish apostles.. "Felix Hiber-
Irish and English mourning.. To plume a hearse.. Protestant
condivatholic hotels.. Taking a shop by storm
land, E
174
177