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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVIII.
FROM CORK TO KILKENNY.
Irish curiosity.. An opinion on temperance.. Forfeited titles. Lis-
more, Fermoy, and Cahir.. The ruins of Cashel.. Tipperary hanging-
men and their shillelaghs.. Specimen of a Tipperary man.. Mills..
Clonmel.." Since temperance".." Ha'penny! ha'penny!". . Flaxen
and black hair.. Little groups of mountains.. The fire-worshippers..
The Rocks of the Sun
188
CHAPTER XIX.
KILKENNY AND THE RACES.
Evening before the races.. Ballad-singers and musicians.. Riding a
race.. Requisites for a race-course.. Its buildings. . The grand stand
The weighing-house. The rubbing-house.. The saddling-house..
The betting-house.. Wagers. . The stewards.. The jockeys.. The
race-horses. . The spectators. . The glorious bustle of the course..
"They are off!".." It's Charley's race!" " It's Nimrod's race!"
Effect of the race on the spectators. . Figures of the horses and riders
.. Steeple-chase. . The winning post. . The victor. . A hurdle-race..
A farmer's race. . Sympathy of the ladies.. Tents and dancers.
Bards and travelling theatres.. Influence of the races on the sick..
The ruins of Kilkenny.. Monuments in the cathedral. . The Earls of
Ormond.. The picture gallery of the castle
CHAPTER XX.
FROM KILKENNY TO WATERFORD.
"Look, your honours, there's misery!". . Castle Rackrent.. Late har-
vests
195.
208
CHAPTER XXI.
WATERFORD.
English and Irish names of places. . Bally, dun, rath, glen, kil, ennis..
Decrease and increase of the population of Irish towns. . Exportation
of grain. Repeal-rooms... The east of Ireland.. Wounds inflicted by
Cromwell
210
CHAPTER XXII.
FROM WATERFORD TO WEXFORD.
The repeal ship.. Waterford harbour.. The rains of Dunbrody.. Irish
jig..The banks of the Barrow.. New Ross. . The county of Wexford
The barony of Forth.. Temperance men.. Announcement of Fa-
ther Mathew. Sporting men and reading men.. St. Patrick.. Fingal 214
CHAPTER XXIII.
WEXFORD.
Parkin's patent slip.. Tides at Wexford.. English and Irish porters. .
Infant schools.. Infants' march.. Infant education.. Its advantages
Committing verses to memory.. New Roman Catholic college..
The Irish poor-houses. . Reminiscences of the last rebellion
CHAPTER XXIV.
ENNISCORTHY AND THE IRISH CLERGY.
Strongbow.. My companion.. Vinegar Hill. . A capital place for the
wool trade.. The castle of Enniscorthy.. Incomes of the Irish and
English Protestant clergy.. The Murphys.. Ancient crowns
CHAPTER XXV.
FROM ENNISCORTHY TO THE VALE OF AVOCA.
The ruins of Ferns. . Mac Murrough. . A very nice fancy taste.. Delivery
of letters and parcels. . Convictions of English and Irish criminals..
The mountains of the county of Wicklow
CHAPTER XXVI.
PAGE
. 220
227
. 231
THE VALE OF AVOCA AND MOORE'S POEMS.
Italian names in Ireland. . The oaks of Avoca. . The ivy.. The Meeting
of the Waters..The Vale of Avoca. . Glowing verses and high-sounding
words.. Moore's verses on Irish scenery. . Moore no English poet.
His Irish patriotism. . Rathdrum. . Irish inns. . Copper mines
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE LAKES AND RUINS OF GLENDALOUGH.
The uninhabited mountains.. George Irwin, the guide of Glendalough..
Description of Glendalough.. The Seven Churches. . Hypotheses con-
cerning the Round Towers. . Graves within the walls of the Seven
Churches.. Erin's pleasure garden. . The Lake of the Serpents.. The
skylark. The Bishop of Glendalough.. Druidical ruins.. Father
Mathew in Glendalough.. St. Kevin's Bed.. St. Kevin and the fair
Kathleen.. A lake in which no one can be drowned.. Peculiar clothing
for the feet.. Departure from Glendalough
CHAPTER XXVIII.
FROM GLENDALOUGH TO DUBLIN.
233
. 240
Protestant dislike of the temperance cause.. Copper mines.. Rathdrum
.. Improvements in Ireland. . Copperplates in the church. . Groups of
mountains. . Planting of trees. .Decoration of country houses. . The
park of the Cunningham family.. Giant arbutus . . Glen of the Downs
.. The Great and Little Sugar-loaves..Dalkey island . 251
CHAPTER XXIX.
DUBLIN.
SECTION I.-O'CONNELL AND THE REPEAL ASSOCIATION.
O'Connell.. The Emerald Legion.. Mottoes on the walls of the Con-
ciliation Hall.. Tribunes of the people in France, Germany, Rome, and
England.. O'Connell in the costume of lord mayor.. Tom Steele..
O'Connell's sons and sons-in-law.. Dan and his wig.. Dan's habits
while speaking.. His language.. His catch-words.. Invectives against
England.. Physical force.. America's example.. Repeal !..“ I offer
the people of Ireland repeal".. Peel's blunders. . England's weakness
is Ireland's strength. . England's sickness is Ireland's health. ." Make
you a nation again!". . O'Connell and the child. . Limerick's daughters
. Contributions to repeal. . The graziers and repeal. . O'Connell's
tears.. O'Loughlin.. A German repealer. . The money-box.. The
O'Connell rent
SECTION II.-THE POOR-HOUSE.
ix
Irish charitable institutions. . Poor-laws in Ireland.. The house-tax..
Workhouse system. . Aversion to reside in the workhouses. . Discipline
in them.. Diet of the paupers .. Cost for each individual. . The potato
boiler.. Employment of the beggars. . Clothes store. . Desire of free-
dom.. Dublin the rendezvous of the Irish beggars.. Hopes for the
suppression of begging
SECTION III.-MUSEUMS, &c.
Benefits conferred on Dublin by German scholars.. The bogs preservers
of antiquities. . Remains of men, buffaloes, and stags. . Cervus Me-
gaceras.. The fossil stag in the Dublin museum. . Frequency of the
Cervus Megaceras in Ireland.. Antique works of art.. Gold ring-
money.. Bronze pigs. . Irish distaffs. Butter, cheese, and iron in the
turf-bogs.. Trinity College.. Maps of Ireland.. The newest map of
Ireland.. Splendid works in the College library. . Grants and donations
to Trinity College. . The prayer-books. . The park
SECTION IV. THE SQUARES OF DUBLIN.
Merrion-square. . Absenteeism . . Irish squares Stephen's Green..
Phoenix Park.. Departure from Dublin
CHAPTER XXX.
FROM DUBLIN TO DROGHEDA.
257
276
282
"How do you spell your name, sir ?".. Cornishmen.. Swords.. Bal-
briggan.. The beggars and my fair singing companion.. Linen trade 294
CHAPTER XXXI.
DROGHEDA AND ITS ENVIRONS.
The Battle of the Boyne.. James II...The Valley of the Boyne.. The
hill of New Grange. Its interior.. Cyclopean chapel. . Its indestructi-
bility.. Stone basins. . Spiral lines, stars, and other figures. . Builders
of the Druid Temple. . These monuments attributed to the Danes..
The Danaans.. Supposed object of these Cyclopean structures. . The
Moat of Dowth. . The ruins of the College of Slane.. Sepulchral
monument of a Netterville.. A hint to painters. . For good luck..
Shila na Gigh.. A funeral. . Monasterboice.. Peculiarity of clouds in
Ireland.. Moore's description of atmospheric phenomena. . Old Irish
crosses.. Symbolism of these crosses. . Irish opinions respecting them
..Columb-Kill.. The cross of Columba.. Oat-cakes. . The parlour of
a Catholic priest.. O'Connell's popularity in Drogheda. . A poetical-
musical soirée.. Cuchullin.. Cuchullin and Connell.. Song of the
Fairies' Mount. .Ossianic poetry..Harp-playing.. Brian Boru's march
.." The fairy queen".. The harpers' society. . The national assembly
at Tara.. The Convent of the Curse.. Irish language. . Decrease of
social amusements
CHAPTER XXXII.
FROM DROGHEDA TO BELFAST.
School of the Moravian brethren.. "A noble pursuit".. Decline of the
noble pursuit.. Stage-coach horses. . Irish climate. . The county of
Louth.. Irish tinkers. . Contrasts.. Ulster and Cromwell.. Borders
of Ulster. . Erin's intercourse with Albion . . Newry.. Flax and linen
trade.. Advantages of the linen trade. . Contest between the Irish and
English linen manufactures. . Little northern towns.. Arrival at
Belfast
CHAPTER XXXIII.
BELFAST AND ITS LINEN MANUFACTORIES.
Extraordinary increase of population in Belfast.. The owner of Belfast..
The linen-hall.. Exportation of linen.. Modes of packing it.. The
whims of the markets. . Giving a dress.. Flax-spinning.. The hand-
loom and the power-loom.. Varieties of flax.. Spinning by machinery
.. The bleaching grounds.. Rapidity of bleaching. .Chemical bleaching
preparations... Northern Presbyterianism and southern Catholicism..
Liszt taken for O'Connell.. Party-spirit. . Religious parties. . The
Presbyterian Church in Ireland. . Presbyterian parties. . Unitarians..
Junction and separation of the Presbyterian synods.. Presbyterian
missions. . The home mission. . Irish preachers.. Irish schools..
The Sunday schools. . Art and science at Belfast. . The museum. .
Private collections. . The botanic garden. . Grasses and exotic plants
.. Musical societies. . The harpers' society.. Fever-epidemic.. Pro-
portion of fever patients to their various occupations.. Proportion of
the fever patients to the sexes →
297
325
335
. CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
THE COAST OF ANTRIM.
Precautions before starting.. Stormy weather., Lough Belfast. The
Castle of Carrickfergus.. Larne. . County of Antrim.. Black and white
.. Limestone and basalt.. The Antrim coast road.. Boulders.. Island
Magee.. Ballygally Head.. Puffing-holes.. Knockdhu.. Glenarm ..
The Antrim family..The M'Donnells and Mac Donnells. . The
genealogy of the O'Nialls. . Printed and unprinted histories of Ireland
.. Preventive men.. Glenariff.. The old Irish..Caverns..Nanny Mur-
ray.. Castle Carey.. The Antrim shepherdesses. . Fingal and Ossian . .
Ossian's grave. . Ossian and St. Patrick.. Gift of the Gab.. "We are
nearly alone".. Lights.. The Maidens.. The heroic girl.. Ballycastle
. Lasses! . . The Mac Donnells
CHAPTER XXXV.
THE ISLAND OF RATHLIN.
Names of the island. . Its volcanic origin. . Peculiar tides. . Interruption
of communication between Rathlin and Ireland.. Robert Bruce. . His
successor.. Mr. Gage.. The possessors of the soil.. Population of
Rathlin.. Ponies and foxes. . Preparation of kelp.. The Ushet men
and the Kenramer men. Grave mounds.. The Campbells. . The
monastery of St. Columba
CHAPTER XXXVI.
CAPE FAIR HEAD.
Basalt plateau. . Farm of the Cross.. Little lakes. . A storm begets a
calm.. Structure of the basalt masses. . Rathlin as seen from Benmore
.. Dykes in the basalt. . The Gray Man's Path. . Substratum of the
basalt.. Its brittleness. . Jackstraws.. Thick population. ." The fox
is coming!".. Ideality and reality
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.
Storm.. Puffing-holes. . Dunning and Kenbaan Castles. . Caraig-a-ram-
had.. Sheep island.. A hanging bridge.. Salmon fishing.. Castle
Dunseverick.. The guides. . Irish cicerones.. Temporary disappoint-
ment. . Basaltic strata, ochre, clay-slate, coal-bed. . Basalt columns..
The dykes.. Faults in the columnar basalt. . Form of the columns..
Their diameter. . Their position and foundation.. Waving pillars.
Joints. . Spurs. . Concavity and convexity.. Spheroidal structure.
Original globular formation of the columns. . Insufficiency of all expla-
nations. . Use of the columns. . Component parts of the basalt..
Crystals in the basalt.. The Giant's Causeway and the popular tradi-
tion.. My Lord's Parlour. . Fair. . Remarkable pillars.. Numerical
proportion of the pillars to the number of their sides
355
372
380
388