DEAR E

LETTER II.

TO SIR G. ET, BART.

Acre, August 7th, 1817.

THIS town was anciently called Accho, and is recorded by the author of THE BOOK OF JUDGES1 for its successful resistance to the incursions of the Asherites. In after ages, being much augmented by Ptolemy the First, it received in compliment to that prince the name of Ptolemais, and is distinguished as such in the account given of St. Paul's passage to Cesarea. 2 The Turks, however, have no great partiality for Egyptian appellatives, and when the place fell into their possession, it resumed something of its original title, Acre being easily derived from Accha and Acra. The situation is one of the most advantageous that can be desired. An extensive and fertile plain stretches out towards the north and the east; the waters of the 2 Acts xxi. ver. 7.

1 Chap. i. ver. 31.

Mediterranean flow round the west; and on the southern side, a capacious bay spreads from the city walls to the base of mount Carmel.

The residence of the English Consul, Signor Malagamba, is very slenderly furnished with accommodations; but our host has testified an anxiety to remove many of the inconveniences, or at least to mitigate their pressure. As the extreme heat of the season operating on a frame" subject to perpetual dissolution and thaw," totally disqualifies him for discharging the office of Cicerone, we have been left to find our way through the intricacies of the streets, and to explore what vestiges of antiquity are yet remaining, with a far less intelligent guide. Among these the principal objects are a few mutilated arcades, supposed to have formed part of the cathedral church of St. Andrew: there are also the nominal ruins of the church of St. John, the Patron Saint of the town, and the convent of the Knights-hospitallers. I regret to add, that we could discover no distinctive trophies of the gallantry of Richard; but history has preserved a record of his heroism, less perishable than the tablets of brass or marble. The modern fortifications are said to have been more frequently added to and renewed, than those

on any other part of the Syrian coast, and are, I believe, at present considered by the inhabitants to be nearly impregnable. The successful resistance of the garrison to a division of the French army, commanded by Bonaparte in person, is a sufficient evidence of the strength of the ramparts, and of the skill with which the besieged repelled the attacks of the assailants. To an Englishman, the contemplation of this event is a subject of no common interest :-the share which Sir Sydney Smith took in the management of the defence will be memorable in the history of the age, as the first example of an effective check to the career of Napoleon; though the political extinction of that chieftain may now moderate any excessive exultation at the result. If the conduct of Xerxes in his generous treatment of a voluntary captive has not, under peculiar circumstances, been considered a fit precedent for imitation by our rulers, it is still abhorrent to every feeling in the English character, wantonly to insult over a fallen adversary;-the national sentiment is still undebased; the people have not yet learned to practise the dastardly movements of the Grecian soldiery, and lacerate the corpse of Hector, whose living image 1 Iliad, lib. xxü, v. 369.

scared them to their fleet, and " the nodding of whose plume dismayed whole armies."

The Governor of Acre, Suleyma Pasha, is in great measure independent of the Porte. He is now extremely old, and his disposition, mild and unenergetic, is little calculated to win the respect of his subjects, who unless they fear, usually despise. If a question were proposed to a Turkish ruler, whether it be better to be loved than feared, or feared than beloved; he would probably reply, that both would be convenient; but since it is extremely difficult to reconcile these conflicting emotions, it is better and more secure for the governing powers, if one only can be obtained, to inspire fear than love. Arguing from the examples of inconstancy, ingratitude, and hypocrisy, with which his official situation has made him familiar, he would infer that the great mass of the people have far less hesitation in resisting the ordinances of such as wish to acquire the affections of their subjects, than of those who appear desirous of being dreaded: since love is fastened only by the weak ligament of obligation, which the slightest incentive of profit or personal advancement will frequently burst asunder; but fear is founded in an apprehension of

punishment; a feeling too intense to be ever totally subdued. You will remember that I give these as the sentiments of a Mussulman. The fortunes of Suleyma have been more extraordinary than those which usually attend a character distinguished by so few prominent features. He was originally a slave, and purchased by Djezzar Pasha when very young. After long enjoying the protection and favour of his master, he was suddenly dismissed his service, from some feeling of unaccountable caprice.

When a great man discharges his favourite, it is a pretty expressive hint to all, who are within the sphere of his influence, that they too are to withdraw from him the light of their countenance. Suleyma thus wandered about in distant regions, a prey to all kinds of privations; till being reduced to the utmost extremity of want, he resolved on returning once more to Acre, where presenting himself at the saloon of his former patron, he intreated him either to relieve his indigence by some pecuniary largess, or terminate at once his sufferings by giving orders for his instant execution. Djezzar felt some compunctious visitings at the wretched condition of his former protégé, he raised him from his suppliant attitude, and reinstated him in his affec