LETTER XVII.

To SIR G. ET, BART.

DEAR E

Jaffa, Aug. 28, 1817.

WE arrived here this afternoon, having left Jerusalem early yesterday morning in company with the zealous ecclesiastic, who attended us to the Dead Sea. Being desirous of examining the ruins at Modin, we made some deviation from the usual route, and in rather less than two hours came to the monastery of St. John, a religious edifice erected on the place where the precursor of the Messiah was born.

We passed on our way a ruined structure called Santa Croce, from the circumstance of its supposed situation on the precise spot formerly occupied by the tree which furnished materials for the cross. At some distance from this point we traversed the elevation

where the ark of the covenant is said to have rested, and thence descended through vineyards to the little town named after the Baptist. The inhabitants of the convent are at this moment held in a state of imprisonment by the population, who being threatened with an armed force to exact the accustomed tribute, have seized on the defenceless monks, and detain them as hostages for the Aga's forbearance.

Our Canon, in the plenitude of his zeal, had conceived the extravagant idea, that two MILORDS,1

1 Should the peace continue a few years longer, this term will be as popular in Greece and Arabia as it was formerly in France. The writer and his friends were described in some of the Buyrouldis of Ali Pasha, as Εὐγενεῖς Ιγγλέζοι, Μιλόρδοι.

The cession of Parga, and the vicinity of his territories to our possessions in the Adriatic, have acquired for the present ruler of Albania a degree of interest with the English community, which, from the remoteness of his situation, would otherwise have been scarcely felt. Some particulars of his very eventful life may therefore not be unacceptable to the reader: they are given in the Appendix. The writer and his friends, who were introduced to the Pasha's protection by the recommendation of Sir Thomas Maitland, received many civilities from him during a residence of several weeks at Joannina, and were afterwards conducted throughout the extent of his government in the north of Greece, free of any charge whatever. The official document, which procured for them such exemption, was drawn out under the immediate dictation of Ali, and is extremely pithy both, in tone and

protected by a firman from the Grand Signior, might have sufficient influence to procure their release. Ac

matter. It is written in the modern Greek, and is no mean specimen of the Vizier's peculiar style.

̓Απὸ τὸν ὑψηλότατον βεζὺς, ̓Αλὶ Πασὰ,

πρὸς ἐσᾶς ἁγιάνιδες καὶ μεσελίμπιδες τῶν βιλαετίων καὶ κασαμπάδων. Αλλο δὲν σᾶς γράφω, μοναχὰ τῦτο· οἱ τέσσαρες εὐγενεῖς, φίλοι με, Ιγγλέζοι, μὲ τὰς ἀνθρώπες τὲς πηγαίνεν διὰ τὰ Σάλωνα. Ὅθεν αὐτῷ ὅπε ἀπερνῦν καὶ γερίσεν νὰ τὰς δέχεσθαι, κάμνωντες τὰς κάθε περιποίησιν ὅπε νὰ μὴν τραβίσων τὸ παραμικρὸν * σικλέτι—ὅτι δὲν γίνομαι * καΐλης· καὶ καθὼς σᾶς γράφω νὰ κάμετε· καὶ ὄχι ἀλλιώτικα, χωρὶς ἄλλο.

The words marked with an asterisk are of Turkish origin: the first signifies inconvenience; the second, contentment. The following is as literal a translation as the respective idioms will admit.

"From the most sublime Vizier, ALI PASHA.

"To you governors and commandants of cities and provinces I write nothing else, save only this. These four English gentlemen, my friends, are journeying to Salona. In their progress thither and return from thence, I will that ye treat them with every possible mark of respect and distinction, making due provision that they are not subjected to the slightest inconvenience of any kind. Otherwise you will incur my displeasure. But as I write, so do ye—and no otherwise—and without hesitation."

The mandate was sealed, and subscribed with the Vizier's sign manual-the signet is extremely small-mere complimentary papers have a much larger impress, but are totally inefficient.

The Romaic resembles the ancient Greek as nearly as

cordingly he began with much fervour to descant on the peculiar hardship of their situation, addressing himself by means of an interpreter to the rebel chiefs, whose tyrannical proceedings he censured with great boldness; clearly demonstrating "by right grave authority," that their conduct was in the highest degree unjust and atrocious. But whether his arguments were too recondite for the audience, or whether they were prejudiced by considerations more cogent, the orator had not advanced half way towards his conclusion before the inner court of the monastery was filled with an enraged multitude, who in loud tones and menacing gestures, insisted on their right, not only to detain the monks, but hinted in very unequivocal terms the possibility of extending their jurisdiction to the redoubtable Milordi themselves. Our position now became rather critical; nevertheless the Canon's zeal and courage were unshaken; and I am of opinion that in such a moment of elevation, he would have gone to the stake without shrinking.

The fathers conducted themselves, during the

the Italian does the Latin-or perhaps, as closely as the expressions of Chaucer do those of Pope. A few specimens of some popular songs, which the writer of these pages learned when at Athens, may be seen in the Appendix.

uproar, with mildness and resignation: they probably considered it a part of their professional duties, to submit without repining to the oppressive contumely of the powers of this world. One of them assured me, with much deliberate solemnity, that he had been confidentially informed that the head of the rebel district, who was apprised, some days since, of our intended visit, had set a price of a thousand piastres on our heads !— We departed, notwithstanding, without injury to a single hair.

The convent is spacious, and in many respects appears to be well arranged. The chapel is several feet below the surface, the great object of the foundress Helena,1 being to comprehend in this consecrated structure that part of the rock which anciently belonged to the dwelling of Zechariah, and which was distinguished as the birth-place of St. John. Its supposed situation is designated by an altar, beneath

1 The mother of Constantine was far too advanced in life, at the time of her visiting Palestine, to survive the completion of the numerous religious edifices which have been ascribed to her munificence. The funds for their erection were probably supplied by her bounty, and possibly the plans of the most important were submitted to her approval; but many were evidently constructed at a period long subsequent to her decease.