The most considerable one was sometimes occupied by a Mr. Wood, who was conducting the somewhat expensive excavations at Ephesus for the British Museum. During our stay we either slept in the house of Mr. Wood, or on a table in the station, amid fleas and mosquitoes.

I. The Plain. This, as already remarked, is level, except at

1. Fortress of Ayasalouk.

2. Ruins of Ayasalouk.

3. Paved street, or way, leading from north to south along the west foot of Prion.

4. The SERAPIEON.

5. Great Theater.

6. Stadium.

7. Custom-house, so called.

8. Gymnasium.

9. Odeum.

10. St. Luke's Tomb, so called.

11-11. Burial places excavated by Mr. Wood. Many fine sarcophagi.

12. Remains of a chapel in a small grotto. Open mouths of many tombs in hill-side to the south of this.

13. Triple gates.

14. Supposed site of Magnesian Gates.
15. Harbor.

16. Prison of St. Paul, so called.

17. Supposed road leading from gate.

18. Canal leading westward from harbor.

19. Conjectural course of Canal in a marsh

which may have been a harbor.

20. Beginning of Valley Pass leading southeast over to Valley of Menander.

21. Aqueduct and station of R. R.

22. Site of Church of St. John.
28. Round Temple, now ruined.

24. Quarries of Marble, perhaps the Tracheia of Strabo.

25. Conjectural restoration of East Wall. AA. Supposed site of Temple of Diana.

Here are

The

the east end, or, more properly, south-east corner. quite a number of small undulations and rocky hills. latter rise suddenly from the level plain as islands from the sea. Some of them are marked on the map. The plain is disposed to be wet, even swampy, especially along the north border, where the roots of Mount Gallesus rise abruptly out of it. Here, indeed, during the wet season considerable lakes of water stand. Some of these spots are marked on the map.

The plain is but little above the level of the sea, is alluvial, fertile, and seems much as if at no very distant time it had been a lagoon or shallow bay, which has been gradually filled up by the sea and the matter brought down from the mountains, and especially by the Cayster. The depth to which the plain has been filled, even where it was habitable, may be seen by inspecting Mr. Wood's excavations in the level tract which lies between Ayasalouk and Ephesus. The stone door-sills of houses wholly covered up have been found six to twelve feet beneath the surface. This spot, as will be seen, is near the eastern edge of the plain. How much it has been filled up above the level on which houses formerly stood to the west I could not definitely determine, but had reason to think ten to fifteen feet was not an unfair estimate, at least for some parts.

The plain is nowhere permanently inhabited, except at Ayasalouk. Wandering Turcomans spread their black tents here and there, and lead their herds of goats, sheep, black cattle, buffaloes and camels, over it for pasturage. A few rude shepherds take shelter with their flocks in one of the ruined structures of Ephesus. The south-east corner, being highest and driest, is partially cultivated. In places it is thickly covered with brush and briers. Birds are very numerous. I saw several terrapins, with brilliantly colored carapaces, or shells, crawling amid the weed-encumbered ruins.

In form the plain is a rude parallelogram. It is about five miles in length, and perhaps three in width. Let us now turn and make a brief survey of its boundaries, which are not devoid of interest.

II. North Boundary.-This can be best seen from one of the heights at the south edge of the plain. Stretching along its north edge is the high mass of Mount Gallesus. At the top the ridge is divided into two peaks, of which the eastern is the high

est.

These send out long ridges, separated by deep ravines, which pass in general in a south-west direction, and dip down suddenly into the plain. To the left the mountains break down somewhat gently to the sea. To the right, near the north-east angle of the plain,, they break down suddenly to the level of the strait-like arm connecting the plains of Trianda and Ephesus. Here, as already said, the Cayster enters, and is seen to pursue a westerly course toward the sea along the north edge of the plain. This has been indicated on the map.

III. East Boundary.-This may be well seen from the hill of Ayasalouk. The whole east side of the plain is bounded by a large irregular mountain mass that sends rough dark ridges down westward, like promontories, into the plain. These are separated by deep, narrow valleys, which rapidly ascend eastward in a winding manner, to be lost high up the mountain side. This is part of Mount Pactyas. It is largely composed of dark mica slate. At the south-east the mountain stoops a little, where it is sundered by one or more gorge-like valleys. Up one of these the railway to Aidin leads. By perhaps the same valley did the ancient road pass between Ephesus and Magnesia, in the valley of the Menander. Pactyas, however, is continued round to the right, or west, of this valley, and for about a mile bounds, at least partially, the

IV. South Edge of the Plain.-If this should be divided into four parts, the eastern one fourth is closely encroached upon by the heights of Pactyas. Strong spurs from it drop suddenly down to the plain. Instead of continuing directly westward toward the sea, the mountain ridge bends off south-west from the plain. From the angle where the bend is made a high narrow spur is given off north-north-west, about one fourth of a mile in length; then it suddenly bends west-north-west for nearly a mile, when it sinks down to less than half its previous height, curving at the same time round toward the north. Here it mounts up again into an oval hill, which rapidly sinks down to the level of the plain. This entire ridge encroaches on the plain-extends, in fact, obliquely into it in a northwesterly direction. This ridge is Coressus. Its position and course can be seen by a glance at the map. On the oval hill in which it terminates, in the plain, is a square tower, erroneously called St. Paul's Prison. On its south side Coressus breaks

down to a well-defined valley descending from the side of Pactyas, the stream in which was called Cenchrius by the ancients. Its direction is from south-east to north-west. On the side next the plain Coressus breaks down very steeply, not to say precipitously. Both sides are steep and brushy, but devoid of trees. It varies in height from eight hundred to sixteen hundred feet. On its north side, near the east end, a low flat ridge or neck projects into the plain northward. It is half a mile across from east to west, and descends gently for a like distance, and then suddenly mounts up into a rocky oval hill, a mile in length from north to south, less than a mile in width from east to west. It stands in the edge of the plain, being connected with the foot of the Coressus to the south by the flat neck or isthmus. This hill is the central feature in the topography of Ephesus-it is Mount Prion. West of Coressus, toward the sea, a number of ridges descend into the plain in a north-west direction. They are indicated on the map. With this brief sketch of the topography of the plain and its surroundings, we will pass to more detailed statements regarding Ayasalouk and Ephesus.

south.

up.

V. Ayasalouk. In the east edge of the plain, about one half mile from the foot of the eastern mountains, an oval hill is reared It is perhaps a mile long from north to south, not so wide from east to west. It is steep on all sides but the It is highest, and most nearly level on top, in the north half. This part is crowned by the fortress of Ayasalouk, which is quite extensive, and formerly had great strength. The walls are largely composed of bricks, painted red and white, after the Saracen style. The walls have frequent round minaret-like towers, and are much shattered by earthquakes. The fortress wholly dismantled and deserted. The southern end of this hill slopes down gradually. On and around its south foot, extending down on the plain, lay the town, which, judging from the extent and character of the remains, must have been very considerable. Here are columns of marble, verd-antique, and granite, capitals, architraves, slabs bearing inscriptions, massive substructions, etc.; the whole mixed with and overlaid by rough stones, weeds, and briers. Amid these are the wretched huts of the present village. On the west side of the south foot of this hill stands the ruined Church of St. John, which was trans

is now

formed into a mosque, but is now wholly deserted and ruined. Earthquakes have rent its walls, and shattered from bottom to top its minaret. From its summit I had a fine view of surrounding objects.

Leading from the south end of this hill is an aqueduct on tall arches, at first twenty-five or thirty feet high; but as you follow it eastward the ground rises and the arches become lower, until in half a mile they disappear and give place to a mere water channel, now broken, which leads up the south side of a valley coming from the east. Though I followed it some distance, I was not able to discover the fountain which formerly supplied it. The aqueduct, when seen from the north or south, presents quite an imposing appearance. Most of the points just described are represented on the map.

VI. Mount Prion.-The distance from Ayasalouk to Mount Prion is less than a mile, the direction south-west. There is no regular road across the perfectly level cultivated plain that intervenes. The fields are in some cases separated by rough stone-walls, and broken, badly kept hedges. We soon began to meet with the excavations of Mr. Wood, which are marked on the map. They were very numerous, and showed at various depths the remains of ordinary buildings. We approach the north-east corner of Prion. This corner is somewhat steep, and on its east face presents a cavernous crack or fissure that extends into the hill, and leads up into a slight valley, which can be followed to the summit, which it divides into two flat peaks. The hill is seen to be steep on the north end and east side, but not precipitous. It is covered scantily with soil, through which the rock protrudes in many places. A few thick clumps of brush and brier are to be seen here and there, with a few fig-trees about the base. In the cavernous excavation are the remains of a rude chapel.

We turned south along the east foot of Prion. Immediately we met with Mr. Wood's excavations, which continue along the whole eastern base of the hill. An immense number of sarcophagi, and the substructions of many buildings apparently for monumental purposes, have been uncovered. Many of the former are very richly sculptured, and bear long Greek inscriptions. To the right, in the hill-side, are the oven-like mouths of open tombs in great numbers. As we pass along,