It is a well-known fact, that almost every, if not all towns of note, are built on the sea-shore or by some river's side, water being essential, whether for utility or beauty, or both; therefore, on the banks of our rivers may be found all that is most rare in the antiquities of the country, as also the utmost elegance and luxury created and rendered necessary by the march of modern refinement. It will be the object of this volume to take notice of these subjects in particular, and to point out all that came under the observation of the author, or which he, by diligent search, was enabled to find out; but it should be borne in mind, that he purposes to give an account of such places only as are actually on the banks of the river, or lying in the route of the pedestrian, for were he to depart from this resolution in one instance, it might be expected in another, which would swell the work to a greater extent than the author ever imagined or intended its reaching.

We will now commence our journey, having in our favour a fine autumnal morning-we quit London at least for a time with feelings untinged with the slightest shadow of regret, and having made our way through its immensity of houses, streets, temples, and palaces, we involuntarily turn once more to bid farewell to the smoking arena; after which, making the best of our way, we soon begin to breathe a purer air, and gain an occasional view of that stream, henceforth, for a short period, to be our familiar companion and guide.

Intending to cross Putney bridge, we arrived at FULHAM, which stands on the north bank of the Thames, and gives name to a hamlet. It is connected with Putney, its opposite neighbour, by a wooden bridge, to pass over which it is necessary to pay toll. It is a pretty village, having several gentlemen's seats about it, and is large enough, had it been situated in the country instead of being a suburb of London, to have gained for itself the name of a town.

It possesses some claims to antiquity, there having been formerly a palace here, in which Henry the Third occasionally resided, on the site of which the present house, called Fulham Palace, is supposed to have been erected. This palace is a large brick building, moated round, with extensive botanical gardens, and has long been the summer residence of the Bishops of London; it is also known by the name of the Manor House, the manor of Fulham having belonged to the Bishops of London many years, even before the invasion of England by William the Norman.

Its church (in the yard of which are buried four bishops) is situated close to the river's side, and is of great antiquity, so much so, that the precise time of its erection is unknown; in this respect it is similar to Putney church, supposed to have been erected at the same period. Tradition says they owe their origin to the piety of twin sisters: whether this be the fact is not certain; however, there they stand, and it is very likely

the story is true. They are both fine buildings, their architecture being of the Saxon order, having square embattled towers, with nave, chancel, and aisles.

It does not appear that Fulham was ever designated or known by any other name than that which it now bears, nor is it clear how it came by that. There is an old story extant, which is here merely mentioned for the purpose of showing how soon very improbable stories gain credence where they happen to go uncontradicted, when, from their very absurdity, they would seem to carry that contradiction along with them; it is as follows: "That the two sisters before-named, living on the opposite sides of the Thames, were in the habit of visiting each other, and for that purpose were ferried over by watermen; and in their giving directions to put in properly for shore, the one used to say, 'Full home, waterman,' while the other would exclaim, 'Put nigh;' whence the two towns took their names of Fulham and Putney." Should any one, impressed with the belief of the folly of such a derivation, doubt for a moment the existence of any such tradition, it so happens that the very neighbourhood affords another instance of a similar one; namely, in the two villages of Chelsea and Battersea, where, on account of the shallowness of the water at the former place, it was called "shallow sea," while the river being deeper higher up, was denominated "Better sea," afterwards corrupted into

Chelsea and Battersea.

But the real origin of the name of Chelsea is from the bed of the river in that particular part, being of sand at that time, which lay in whole banks or shelves, containing a considerable number of shells, hence called shelf or shell-sea, which found an easy corruption into Chelsea; however, the former account being by far the more interesting to the common people, is in greater favour, and generally believed by them to be true.

Much, indeed most, of the land in this part is in culture for garden produce for the London markets, which are supplied every morning long before its inhabitants awake from their slumbers.

PUTNEY, formerly a mere village, and consisting only of one street, is now composed of many. It may lay claim, as well as Fulham, to the title of being a pleasant and agreeable place; no doubt it was much more so ere London had so overgrown itself as to threaten with destruction, by its absorbing powers, its numerous, but far humbler neighbours. Alas! where are the countless fields and romantic spots that used to intervene between itself and suburbs where merry childhood played? Gone, I am afraid, to the tomb of the Capulets!

Its church outwardly is very similar to that of Fulham. Mr. Lyons says it was erected as a chapel of ease to Wimbledon, but this rests on mere assertion without proof: it displays various kinds of architecture; while at the end of the

south aisle is a pretty chapel, built by West, Bishop of Ely, who adorned it with his arms, and a beautiful Gothic roof. It may be as well to observe, the inhabitants of both places are very proud of their churches, and consider it as a personal insult if any thing be said in their derogation.

In this village was born Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, the favourite and friend of Wolsey; he was afterwards the friend and confidential adviser of his master, Henry the Eighth. It is almost needless to say that he was requited for the zeal and fidelity displayed in that monarch's service, in the form most usual to that savage, namely, by decapitation. It is to the honour of Archbishop Cranmer, that when all friends had deserted this unfortunate nobleman, Cranmer wrote to the king in his behalf, saying, he firmly believed his majesty did not possess a more loyal subject in his dominions, but without avail. Cromwell's father was a blacksmith in Putney, and Cromwell himself is only one of the many instances to show, that in this country an humble origin is no bar to the acquisition of wealth and the highest honours of the state.

The mind of man cannot for a moment suffer itself to dwell on some of the transactions that have occurred in past ages of our national history, without being filled with a just sense of indignation at the power and authority exercised by men, who, arrogating to themselves a title of