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tises upon cockle-Mells, did not think it thing to do. Among these you niay see beneath him to comment on the works most of our young men of fashion, and of Apicius Cælius, who had collected young officers of the guards, who meet together many valuable receipts in at these places to thew the elegance of cookery, as practised by the Romans. their taste by the expensiveness of their If you would preserve your papers from dinner: and many an ensign, with scarce the indignity of covering breasts of any income but his commission, prides veal, or wrapping up cutlets à la Main himself on keeping the best company, tenon, I would advise you to lard them and often throws down more than a now and thien with the ragouts of He- week's pay for his reckoning; though liogabalus, or a parallel between our at other times it obliges him, with lemodern soups and the Lacedemonian veral of his brethren upon half pay, to black broth. Your works might then dine with Duke Humphry in St. James's be universally read, from the mistress in Park. the parlour down toʻthe cookmaid and The taverns about the purlieus of scullion,
Covent-Garden are dedicated to Venus, It is absolutely necessary for people as well as Ceres and Liber; and you of all tempers, complexions, perfua. may frequently see the jolly mess-mates fions, habits, and itations of life, how- of both sexts go in and come out in ever they may differ in other particu- couples, like the clean and unclean lars, to concur in the grand article of beasts in Noah's ark. These houses cating. And as the humours of the are equally indebted for their support, body arise from the food we take in, to the cook, and that worthy personage, the dispositions of the mind seem to whom they have dignified with the title bear an equal resemblance to our places of Pimp.' These gentlemen contrive of refreshment. You have already taken to play into each other's hands. The a review of our several coffee-houses; first, by his bigh soups and rich sauces, and I wish you would proceed to de- prepares the way for the occupation of lineate the different characters that are the other; who liaving reduced the pato be found in our taverns and chop- tient by a proper exercile of his art, houses. A friend of mine always judges returns him back again to go through of a man of taste and fashion, by asking, the same regimen as before. We may who is his peruke-maker or his taylor? therefore suppose, that the culinary arts Upon the fame principles, when I would are no less itudied here than at White's form a juft opinion of any man's tem- or Pontac's. True geniuses in eating per and inclinations, I always enquire, will continually itrike out new improrewhere does he dine ?
ments: but I dare fay, neither Braund The difference between the taverns nor Lebeck ever made up a more exnear St. James's, and those about the traordinary dish, than. I once remem'Change, consists, not so much in the ber at the Caftle. Some bloods being coftliness as the substance of their in company with a celebrated fille de viands. The round-bellied alderman, joye, one of them pulled off her thoe, who breathes the foggy air of the city, and in excess of gallantry filled it with requires a more solid diet than the light Champagne, and drank it off to her kick haws of our meagre persons of health. In this delicious draught he was quality. My Lord, or Sir John, after immediately pledged bythe rest, and then, having whiled away an hour or two at to carry the compliment ftill further, he the parliament-house, drive to the Star ordered the Ahoe itself to be dressed and and Garter, to regale on Macaroni, or served up for fupper. The cook set piddle with an Ortolan; while the himself seriously to work upon it; he. merchant, who has plolded all the pulled the upper part (which was of morning in the Alley, lits down to a damalk) into fine reds, and tossed it turtle- feast at the Crown or the King's up in ragout; minced the fole; cut the Arms, and crams himself with Cali. wooden heel into very thin llices, fried paíh and Calipee. As the city taverns them in batter, and place them round are appropriated to men of business, the dish for garnith. The company, who drive bargains for thousands over you may be lure, testified their affectheir morning's gill, the taverns about tion for the lady by earing very heartily the court are genurally filled with an of this exquisite impromptà: and as infipid race of mortals, who have no. this transaction happened just after the
French king had taken a cobler's
coats. However, the odorous effluvia daughter for his mistress, Tom Pierce generally affected the smell of every (who has the Mile as well as art of a true Briton in the room. The hurler French cook) in his bill politely called was fatigued with carving: the matter it, in honour of her 'name, De foulier of the house grew pak, and fickenert at à la Murpby.
the fight of those ju cv coilops of fat Taverns, Mr. Town, seem contrived and lean, that came swimming in gravy, for the promoting of luxury; while the and fmoking molt dericioudy under our humbler chop-houses are designed only noft:ils. Oiher methods therefore were to satisfy the ordinary cravings of na to be pursued. The B-ef was still ture. Yet at these you may meet with served up, but it wis brought up cold, a variety of characters.
At Dolly's It was put upon a table in the derkeit and Horseman's, you commonly fee part of the room, and immured between the hearty lovers of a beef. lteak and four walls formed artificially by the sergill of ale; and at Betty's, and the chop- vants with the hats of the company. Rouses'about the inns of court, a pretty When the jellies and flip llops were maiit is as inviting as the provisions. coming in, the Beef was carried off in In these common refectories you may as fecret a manner, as if it had gone always find the jemmy attorney's clerk, through the ceremonies of concoction. the prim curate, the walking physician, But itill, Sir, under all these disadvan. the captain upon half-pay, the shabby tages, we had a chance of getting a slice valet de chambre upon board wages, as it passed by. Now, alas! it is not and the foreign count or marquis in suffered to come up itaire. I dare say, it dithabille, who has refused to dine with is generally banished from the iteward's a duke or an ambasador. At a little table; nor do I fuppose, that the
pow. eating-house in a dark alley behind dered foormen will touch it, for fear the 'Change, I once saw a grave citi- of daubing their ruffles. So that the zen, worth a plumb, order'a two-penny dish that was served op to the royal mers of broth with a boiled chop in it: tables, the dish that was the breakfast and when it was brought him, he scoop- of Queen Elizabeth and her saics of ed the crumb out of an halfperny roll, honour, the dish that recrived the digand soaked it in the porridge for his nity of knighthood from King James present meal; then carefully placing the the First, is now beconie the food only chop between the upper and under crud, of feullions and table boys. In what he wrapped it up in a checked handker words can I vent ny resentment upon chief, and carried it off for the mor. this occasion ; especially when I rerow's repatt.
flect, that innovations feldom come I shall leave it to you, Sir, to make alone? Toasted cheese is already bu. farther reflections on this subject, and ried in rammekins : plumb-porridge has thould be glad to dine with you at any been long banithed: 'I tremble for plumbtavern, dive with you into any cellar, pudding. May we not live to see a leg take a beef-steak in Ivy Lane, a mut of pork derefted as carrion? and a fhoulton chop behind St. Clement's, or (if der of mutton avoided as if it were horseyou chule it) an extempore sausage or feth? Our only hopes are in the Clergy, black pudding over the farthing fries at and in the Beef teak Cluh. The for. Moor-Fields. Your huinble lervant, mer ftill preserve, and probably will pre.
T. SAVOURY, serve, the reciwde of their appetites; PYL-CORNER.
and will do justice to Beef, wherever
they find it. The latter, who are comMR. TOWN!
posed of the most ingens artists in BY
Y Jove, it is a shame, a burning the kingdom, meer every Saturday in
Thame, to see the honour of Eng a noble room at the top of Covent Gar. land, the glory of our nation, the den theatre, and never suffer any dith greatelt pillar of life, 'Roast Beef, except Beef- steaks to appear. There, utrerly banished from our tables. This indeed, are most glorious examples: evil, like many others, has
but whal, alas! are the weak endeaing upon us by degrees, It was tegin vours of a few to oppose the daily inby wickedly placing the Beef upon a roads of fricaflees and foup maigres ! file-table, and screening it by a parcel This, Mr. Town, is a national conof queue-tail'd fellows in laced waist. cern, as it may prove more destructive
to Beef than the distemper among the to enforce the love of Beef by act of horned cattle: And hould the modith parliament. avertion against rumps and furioins
Yours, continue, it will be ablolutely necessary
No XX. THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 1754.
NON UMBRÆ ALTORUM NEMORUM, NON MOLLIM POSSUNT
THE VERDAST MEADOW, OR THE LOFTY GROVE.
forangely altered from the unpo- ready to die with the vapours: fuch limed females, who fouri hed in the rout with their hissing and hollowing, days of Romance. Wni: modern Par- my head is ready to split into a thousand theniffa would not prefer a tall young pieces! If my Sir John must be in pare fellow to the most Leautiful dwarf in liament, why cannot he do-as your lord the universe, or a coach and fix to a does, and be content with a borough, white palfrey?' The fair damsels of old where he might come in without all this wele chiefly to be found in woods and trouble, and take his feat in the house, forefts; but our present heroines are dif- though he has never been within an tinguish: d by an urter averfion to the hundred miles of the place. country, and would as foon ve confined - Our house, my dear, has been a per. by a giant in an enchanted caitle, as feet inn ever since we came down; and immared with old maiden aunts in the I have been obliged to trudge about aš family manfion house. 'Nothing is more much as a fat landlady. :Oar doors are dreadful to our ladies of quality than open to every dirty fellow in the county. the approach of summer: for what won that is worth forty thillings a year; all man of spirit would chuse to leave the my best floors are spoiled by the hob. town to wander in solitudes and desarts; nails of farmers Aumping about them; or what pleasure can the long days give every room is a pig-ltye; and the Chinese to our fine ladies, when the pretty crea- paper in the drawing room ttinks to tures are conscious, that they look þeft abominably of purch and tobacco, that by candle-light? The general coma" it would ftrike you down to come into plaint againt the country is want of it." It you knew'what I have suffered, amusement, or want of company: bae you would think I had the constitution these common inconveniences are trifles of a washerwoman to go through it! in comparison to the sufferings of the We never fit down to table without a poor lady, who wrote the following dozen or more of boisterous two-legged letter, which was communicated to me creatures as rude as bears; and I have with leave to make it public,
nothing to do but to heap 'up their
plates, and drink to each of their DEAR LADY CHARLOTTE,
healths. What is worse than all, one I
to death, and hurried out of my would serve him but he mult kiss me, wits, ever since I have been in this odio which I was forced to fubmit to for ous country, O my dear, how I long fear of lohng his vote and interest. to be in town again? Pope and the Would you think it, dear Charlotte? poets may talk what they will of their do not laugh at nie- I ftood godmother porting streams, shady groves, and in person to a huge lubberly boy at a Hovery meads: but I'had rather live country farmer's, and they almost poiall my days among the cheesemongers foned me with their hoxige podge they fhops in Thames Street, than pass luch called candle, made of four ale and another fpring in this filthy country. brown sugar. All this and more I have Would you believe it? I have scarce been obliged to comply with, that the touched a card fince I have been here: country fellows might not say, my lady and then there has been such ado with is proud and above them.
Besides, there is not a woman crea But what is worse than all, Sir John ture within twenty miles of the place, tells me, the el. ction expençes have run that is fit company for iny houle- lo high, that he must shorten my allowkeeper; and yet I must be in imate with ance of pin-money.
He talks of turnthem all. Lady B ** indeed is very ing off hali his servants; nay, he has near us; but though we are very well even hinte i to me, that I hall not come acquainted in town, we must not be to tow all the winter. Barbarous creafeen to speak to each other here, because ture!—But if he dares ferve me so, he her lehd is in the opposition. Poor shall positively lote his election next Thomas got a lad drubbing at her time; I wil raise fuch a spirit of oppohouse, when I innocently fert him atsition in all the wives and daughters in my first coming into the country with the county against bim. I am your a how d’ye to her ladyship. The greatest affectionate friend, &c. female acquaintance I have here, are Mrs. Mayoress, a taylor's wife, and. This lady's case is, indeed, very much Mis. Alderman Gascoigne, who sells to be pitied: but as Sir John has had the pins and needles on one fide of the shop, good luck to gain his point after a strong while her husband works at his peitle opposition, he will doubtless be sensible and mortar on the other.
of the great share his lady had in his dinary wretches are constant attendants success. For my own part, when I conon my tea-table: I am obliged to take sider the vast influence which the fair them and their brats out an airing in sex mult naturally have over my fellowipy coach every evening; and am after countrymen. I cannot help looking on wards often doomed to fit down to whift their interesting themselves in these matand fwabbers, or one and thirty bone ters as a very serious affair. What suc. ace for farthings. Mrs. Mayoress is a cess muit a fine lady meet with on her
party-woman; and the has canvass! No gentleman to be sure could two pog-dogs; one of which she calls be fo rude or lo cruel, as to refuse such Sir John, and the other Colonel, in com a pretty beggar any thing she should pliment you must know to my husband alk; and an honest country fariner, who and his brother candidate.
could withstand any other arguments, We had a ball the other day; and I might be coaxed and wheedled, or bribed opened it with Sir Humphry Chale, who with a smile, into voting against his danced in his boots, and hobbled along conscience. Many instances have been for all the world like the dancing bears, found, during the late elections, of which I have seen in the streets at Lon- husbands who have been forced to poll don. A terrible mistake happened about as their wives would have them; and precedence, which I fear will lole șir I know a young fellow, that was brought John a good many votes. An attorney's over to give a vote against his inclination wife was very angry, that her daughter, by his sweetheart, who refused to receive a little pert chit just come from the his addresses, if he did not change his boarding-School, was not called out to party. dance before Miss Norton the brewer's It may not perhaps be too bold an daughter, when every body knew (the assertion, that half the members in the faid) that her girl was a gentlewoman present parliament owe their seats to the bred and born.
direct or indirect influence of the other I wish, my, dear, you were to fee my sex. It would therefore be highly dresling-room; you would think it was proper for the legislature to provide a ribband-shop. Lettice and I have against this evil for the future; and I been busy all this week in making up hope, before the next general election, knots and favours; and yesterday no to see among the Votes the following milliner's prentice could work harder resolution, than I did, in tying them on to the sweaty hats of country bumkins. And RESOLVID, is it not very hard upon me? I must That it is an high infringement of not even dress as I please; but am the liberties and privileges of the Comobligeu to wear blue, though you know mons of Great Britain, for any peerels, it does not suit my complexion, and or any other lady, to concern themlelves makes me luok as horrid as the witches in the elections of members to serve for in Macbcth.
the Commons io parliament.
No XXI. THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 1754.
STUDEO, BULLATIS VT M!II NUGIS
A TALL IN SOUNDING PHRASE I STRIVE TO TELL,
QUASSOUW, the son of K.qvuf- 'grifle of her nose; and his eyes
dwelt tain over the Sixteen Nations of Caf. of her breasts, which descended to her fraria. He was descended from N'oh navel. and Hingu’oh, who dropt from the Knonmquaiha, (for that was the vile moon; and his power extended over all gin's name) was daughter to the Kouthe Kraals of the Hottentots.
quequa or leader of the Kraal, who bred This prince was remarkable for his her up with all the delicacy of her sex, prowess and activity: his speed was like She was fed with the entrails of
goats, the torrent, that rulhes down the pre- the fucked the eggs of the oltrich, and cipice; and he would overtake the wild her drink was the milk of ewes. After als in her fight: his arrows brought gazing for some time upon her charms, down the eagle from the clouds; the the prince great transport embraced lion fell before him, and his launce drank the roles of her feet: then ripping the the blood of the rhinoceros.. He fa- beast he had just killed, took out the thomed the waters of the deep, and buf. caul, and hung it about her neck, in feted the billows in the tempeit; he drew token of his affection. He afterwards the rock-fish from their lurking holes, Atripped the tyger of his skin, and sendand sifted the beds of coral. Trained ing it to the Kouquequa her father, defrom his infancy, in the exercise of war, manded the damfel in marriage, to wield the Hafiagaye with dexterity, The eve of the full moon was ap. and break the wild bulls to battle, he pointed for the celebration of the nupwas a stranger to the soft dalliance of tials of Tquaffouw and Knonmquaiha. lore; and beheld with indifference the When the day arrived, the magnificence, thick-lipped damsels of Gongeman, and in which the bridegroom was arrayed, the flat-nosed beauties of Hauteniqua. amazed all Caffraria. Over his shoul
As Tquallouw was one day giving ders was cast a Krosse, or mantle of inftructions for spreading toils for the wild cat-skins: he cut sandals for his elk, and digging pitfalls for the elephant, feet from the raw hide of an elephant; he received information, that a tyger he had hunted down a leopard, and of prowling for prey was committing rava- the spotted fur formed a fuperb cap for ges on the Kraals of the Chamtouers. his head; he girded his loins with the He fnatched up his bow of olive-wood, intestines; and the bladder of the beast and bounded, like the roe-buck on the he blew up, and fastened to his hair. * mountains, to their assistance.
Nor had Knoninquaiha been less emrived just at the instant when the en- ployed in adorning her person. She raged animal was about to faiten, on a made a varnih of the fat of goats mixed virgin, and aiming a poisoned arrow at with foot, with which the anointed her his heart, laid him dead at her feet. whole body, as she stood beneath the The virgin threw herself on the ground, rays of the sun: 'her locks were clotted and covered her head with duft, to thank with melted grease, and powdered with her deliverer: but when the rose, the the yellow dust of Buchu: her face, prince was dazzled with her charms. which thone like the polished ebony, He was ftruck with the glory hue of was beautifully varied with spots of red ber complexion, which thone like the earth, and appeared like the fable cure jetty down on the black hogs of Hesia- tain of the night bespangled with stars: qua: he was ravished with the prest the sprinkled her limbs with wood