had been rewarded, as if we had actually attained the heavens by our long effort, and as if we were being shown a new vision of life, inspired to new resolves of service, of worth, and of high-mindedness. And this sense comes only as a reward for the struggle. The funiculaire by which a part of this wonderful panorama above

INTERIOR OF A MOUNTAIN HUT

Zermatt may be seen at 10,290 feet, from the Gornergrat in its center, arouses no such thoughts. The exhilaration of rising to such heights comes when they have been attained by effort, when it has cost something in time and strength and courage. Again, there is the excitement, the entering into new worlds, the anticipation of the adventures, of difficulties that must be foreseen and prepared for. One must think well and quickly. All one's resources are taxed, the whole man is developed. And is it not worth something to learn to overcome obstacles, to develop endurance, courage, prudence, perseverance, to learn the relative unimportance of bodily comfort? Just as truly as with football does mountain climbing develop moral character. There is nearly Iways some element of anxiety, some

real difficulty, to be surmounted on a long, hard climb. The way is far, nature is immovable, rocks are pitiless, and there is no help at hand. But that, again, is one of the pleasures: to feel that we have attained to where few can come, and are undisturbed in our possession and contemplation.

Accidents are relatively few, and nearly always occur only with those who go without guides. They may lose their way, may slip, or fail to recognize the signs of bad weather in an unfamiliar locality. For those who go with carefully selected guides there is practically no real danger, for the guides will not start unless conditions are safe, and will turn if they become unsafe. They are legally responsible for the safety of the party. They obtain their books of recommendation and licenses from the Government, through the Swiss Alpine Club, only after a certain age, a certain experience as porters accompanying experienced guides, and an examination as to elementary knowledge of topography, geography, and weather conditions. Their book states the loads they may be required to carry, the tariff for each mountain, and other regulations, and has leaves for the written recommendations of previous parties whom the guide has served. The license or book can be taken away for any misconduct, and the license must be renewed annually. As a class the Swiss guides are a stalwart, reliable, intelligent set of men to whom one may trust one's self without hesitation. To be good guides, they must, in addition, have good judgment, be sure and swift climbers, and be courageous as well as prudent; and in these qualities there are differences among them. They almost never slip, and while climbing they keep taut the rope that attaches them to the tourist, prepared at any moment to protect him from any serious slip. In difficult places the head guide makes the tourist wait until he himself can reach a secure foothold, when he stops, braces himself, and directs the movements of the tourist by

the head guide goes last, bracing himself and with a tight hold on the rope, prepared for the tourist to slip or to be lowered by the rope at any difficult point.

An experienced guide must also be a good organizer and something of a cook; for on the more difficult mountains, where few climbers go, even a small base hotel would not pay. On many of these mountains there are, however, small huts, built and kept up by the Swiss Alpine Club. No one lives in them, but their doors are kept unlocked and they may be used by any one without other charge than for the wood used. These huts are usually as far above the valley as a mule can go and as water can be found, namely, from two to five hours' walk up a path, and as near as possible to the beginning of the real hard work of the mountain, whether glacier or rocks. They must be near water, whether from a glacier or mountain snows; a sign and arrows indicate which way it lies from the hut, and a large can, shaped for the back, is at hand, to be filled by the first comers of the evening. The huts are protected by their position or by retaining walls above from avalanches, which, however, occur only in winter and spring. They have a stone base which serves as a woodhouse.

Each

spring a boy and mules are sent up with ample supplies of wood for the summer, and each tourist leaves in the iron box attached to the wall in the hut twenty cents for each bundle

A FREQUENT METHOD OF DESCENT Certain parts of the Alps are accessible only by climbing in the rock cracks. The guide in that case acts as an anchor, braces himself at the top of the cliff, and gradually slackens, the rope which is swung under the shoulders of the climber. Some of these cracks which are very long and narrow are termed "chimneys" by the mountaineers

used. The building is of wood, about fifteen feet square, with a ladder to the loft, in which the guides sleep. Its one room usually contains a small stove, cooking utensils, a table, and a strawcovered shelf which serves instead of beds. One corner of this shelf is curtained off for ladies. An ample supply of blankets hangs from the rafters, as also a coiled rope for rescue work. There is a Red Cross chest, a stretcher, a red light to signal with, and instructions on the wall what to do in case of accidents. A visitors' book, pen, ink, and barometer complete the furnishings -all that is necessary; for the guides bring in their packs on their backs the small amount of food necessary for each party. The hut is usually reached about five o'clock in the afternoon, supper is cooked and eaten by each party in turn,

and by 8 P.M. all is quiet. The early start, usually by 2 A.M., is in order to have the snow still hard all the way to the top; for after nine in the morning the sun begins to make it soft, and progress then becomes much slower and much more fatiguing.

Food for the six to twenty hours of climbing from the hut to the summit and back must be reduced to a minimum of weight, must be nourishing, and must not be dry enough to produce thirst; but this will vary with the person. My own choice is always a small can of some fish, not salty, a half-pound of sweet chocolate, a few fresh pears, a quart bottle of water, and sometimes an egg, but never bread nor meat, because too dry. These last can be eaten at the hut only, and may be supplemented by soup and cheese.

In America, especially in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, Selkirks, and the High Sierras, are peaks as wonderful as those of the Alps, but guides are few and huts practically none, so that ascents must be made all the way from the few valley hotels up and back in one day, or else costly camping expeditions must be arranged. The American Alpine Club is only about five years old, with sixty-four active members, the Canadian Alpine Club but two years old. With the increase of the sport in this country, huts and guides will no doubt be provided. Meantime, as in the early days in the Alps, a few hardy and courageous pioneers are making first ascents and guideless ascents, in comparison with which a present-day ascent of the Matterhorn may not rank as presenting difficulties other than endurance.