.

o'clock P. M.; a swarm of vermin-like human beings blacken the coal-barges; they haul in the rope with wild cries. Amid infinite clamor and confusion, we get into the boats and row ashore. Our luggage, involved with a lot of others, is slowly evolved; Truelove, our valet, is bewildered, but we have a strong-legged dragoman, who, by dint of clamorous gesticulation and what seems to be much cursing, finally loads it on carts drawn by barelegged men, who haul it to the open shed called the Custom House. Wizened and monkeyish creatures load themselves with vast trunks, nor seem to notice the weight. A majestic fat lady, who on the ship was a model of perfect dressing, succumbing to the heat, turns red, and the sweat makes a sad ruin on her painted face. At last we start for the train in a crazy fiacre drawn by two lean horses urged by a madman of a driver in a fez. We narrowly escape being upset, and it is a miracle no one was run over, for the equipage was first on one side and then on the other of the street. At the station, infinite clamor and confusion. We finally wedge into a little car, and at half-past three start for Ismailia; Truelove and all our luggage left behind. We pass a lake swarming with ducks. Presently the yellow light is reflected in the still water. Night fell on the desert before we reached Ismailia, where we found ourselves again in the clutches

of the natives. One finally took command of us by snatching our bags and starting for the other train. We meekly followed, I keeping my bag in sight, as I feared he would break away with it into the desert. A scurvy buffet furnished us with a meager lunch. We waited a dull hour, and then, dead tired, started for Cairo,-the chill air penetrating the car. After four hours of great unrest, we came to Cairo, where a dragoman met us with low bows and conducted us in state to the Continental Hotel, where we were lodged in sumptuous rooms; had supper and then to bed.

DECEMBER 27. The servant opened my shutters at nine o'clock; a flood of sunlight poured through the window. I breakfasted in my room; then smoked and looked out on the street at the strange sights, and heard strange sounds.

DECEMBER 28. Yesterday we drove across the Nile and through a dirty, swarming village crowded with nameless things to eat and drink. Children, sprawling, narrowly escape death under our wheels. In the squalid hovels, gaunt, ill-nourished fowls perched about, on the edge of kettles-anywhere. Tall palms, with long stems and tufts of leaves at the top, stand against the sky; donkeys everywhere. Great care has to be taken lest you are defiled in walking.

DECEMBER 29. We drove through the Arab

quarter, and to the citadel overlooking Cairo. A solitary soldier with his book was perched where, when his eyes left the book, all the pyramids, the city below, and the Nile rolling in a turbid flood came into one glance. We visited an ancient mosque, carefully putting slippers over our shoes to prevent our infidel feet from profaning the pavement.

DECEMBER 30. We drive to see dahabiyehs; none good enough. Go to the opera and hear "Hérodiade" by Massenet; ill sung; the harem, in closed boxes, fill a good part of the house.

DECEMBER 31. We drive at eleven to the Great Pyramid, through a beautiful avenue of acacias; pass trains of camels; on either side, the green fields, with here and there robed figures bending at work. The first sight was disappointing, and only when we drew near did the prodigious size reveal itself. A group of Arabs, camels, and donkeys, here awaiting their prey, pounced on us with offers. Our dragoman introduced us to the chief, a dignified old man, who laid about lustily with his staff and scattered his retainers; then one was told off, by a stroke from the stick of the chief, to ascend the pyramid and return in eight minutes.

The agile, wiry creature tucked up his robe, and

with incredible agility began the ascent, jumping from rock to rock with the lightness of a chamois; as he ascended he shrunk away smaller and smaller, and on the top seemed hardly larger than a monkey. His descent was so rapid as to be fearful; it seemed more like falling down than anything else, and he reached the earth in seven minutes from the time he started. Passing some smaller ruined tombs, we came to the Sphinx, whose vast and battered face has for so many centuries looked out over the valley of the Nile. Here, with camels and all, a photograph was made, the camels keeping up a dolorous clamor; then to the granite tombs,-some of the blocks eighteen by seven feet, so exactly fitted that the joints of these great pieces of alabaster, once polished smooth, are hardly perceptible on the face. On our return, the sheik gave us his kindest good-by, and again cudgeled the more rapacious, who would fain have seized us for more. The level sun filled the plain with long shadows as we drove home. In the evening to the opera-"Cavalleria Rusticana," an excellent performance. M. Bey spoils the intermezzo by remaining in the box and talking of common things. Miss W. dined and went with us to the opera, after which we sat up until twelve and wished one another a happy New Year.

1895

JANUARY 1. A beastly native band, playing a travesty on the "Marseillaise" at the door of the French ambassador across the way, awoke me at eight o'clock. The Embassy, in a great deal of embroidery, was setting out; many servants in Arab dress and wands attempted to keep order. This mob increased in numbers about noon, when the whole street was blocked by callers. All the various sorts of ecclesiastics, in all kinds of queer robes, called. One band after another of the native sort, uninvited, added to the din; a clarinet, trombone, two drums, and a pair of cymbals noisily clashed by a dirty, small boy with head rolled up like a sore thumb, was the usual array, and the noise was abominable. In the afternoon we drove to Heliopolis to see the Obelisk stuck in the dirt in the middle of a sordid field near a village of unusual squalor; no sensation there for me. An ostrich-farm at the end of the desert we saw; and after to the legendary tree under which the Holy Family rested-a palpable fraud. After dinner we went to the smoking-room and heard some stranded negro minstrels sing very well indeed.