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Alehouses. There are 9 ale or public-houses in the parish, the effect of which upon the morals of the people is most pernicious. Various attempts have been made, from time to time, both to lessen their number, and to restrain their licentiousness; but the misnamed liberality of the present age opposes all such attempts, as encroachments on the liberty of the subject.

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.

There are two things which have frequently been mentioned as being rather opposed to the improvement of the place the largeness of the farms, most of them being of greater extent than one man can easily superintend; and the want of resident heritors, or men of wealth and influence, who might either propose or carry into effect any plan for the public good.

It has also been often mentioned, that a road round the island would be of vast consequence to the parish; both to the farmer in carrying his produce to market, and in collecting his manure for the fields; to the inhabitants in general in their ordinary intercourse, and to strangers, who visit in the summer months, who might be thereby induced to build villas round the shore, and consequently to remain in the place, and thereby increase the value of the respective properties, and add to the means and resources of the parish in general.

May 1840.

PARISH OF KINGARTH.

PRESBYTERY OF DUNOON, SYNOD OF ARGYLE.

THE REV. JOHN BUCHANAN, MINISTER.

1.-TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.

Name.-THIS parish occupies the southern part of the Island of Bute. It takes its name from a promontory forming its extreme point to the south, called in the Gaelic language Ceann Garbh, which signifies stormy end, or stormy head.

Extent and Boundaries.—It is 6 miles in length from north to south; and its average breadth is 24 miles. It is bounded on the north and north-west by the Loch of Ascog, a part of Loch-fad,

and Quien loch, which separate it from the parish of Rothesay; and on the east, south, and west, by the Frith of Clyde. It is irregular in its figure, being indented by several small bays on both sides; but it gradually narrows from its northern extremity, till it becomes an isthmus of a mile and a half in breadth, beyond which it forms a peninsula of two miles in length, terminating in the promontory above-mentioned.

Topographical Appearances.-The land in general rises considerably above the level of the sea. The principal hills are Suidhe or Suidhe Chatain (the Seat of Catan), 520 feet high, and Saint Blane's Hill, 486 feet. The coast to the east and south is for the most part rocky, in many places rising precipitously at a little distance from the shore, in ridges that appear to have at a former period served as a barrier to the sea, and to have been subsequently raised by volcanic action to their present level. To the west the coast has, in general, a more gentle rise, although it exhibits a similar appearance of a shore elevated above its original position. The shore is principally sandy, but to the east and south rocky; and at Kilchatan bay, and on some parts of the west coast, it contains a stratum of blue clay. The bays are those of Ascog, Scoulag, and Kilchatan to the east; and of Scalpsie, Stravanan, and Dunagoil, to the west. The only headland is the Garroch-head, which has its name corrupted from the Gaelic Ceann Garbh.

A table, serving to indicate the temperature and pressure of the atmosphere, and the prevailing winds in this parish, will be found in the Account of the parish of Rothesay.

The climate is somewhat moist; but is remarkably healthy, and induces invalids to seek it for its singular mildness. No distemper prevails at any time, that can reasonably be attributed to any peculiarity in the atmosphere, or other local cause; and cases of longevity are very common.

The Frith of Clyde, which bounds the parish on the east, south, and west, is 9 miles in breadth betwixt Scoulag bay on the east shore, and the nearest point of Ayrshire, at Largs; and 8 miles in breadth between Dunagoil bay on the west shore, and the nearest part of the Island of Arran; and 90 fathoms deep betwixt the Garroch-head and Little Cumbrae, where its depth is greatThe water is usually clear; its saltness is diminished by the volume of fresh water proceeding from the Clyde and the rivers: of Cowal in Argyleshire.

est.

The lakes connected with the parish, all of them forming part of its boundary towards the parish of Rothesay, are, the Loch of

Ascog, containing 75 acres, 1 rood, 28 poles, imperial, of surface; Quien Loch, containing, 68 acres, 3 roods, 30 poles; and Lochfad, containing about 400 acres.

Geology. The soil is in general of a light gravelly or sandy nature, though in some places loam and clay are to be found. The predominating rocks are old red sandstone with conglomerate, and veins, beds, and overlying masses of trap.

II. CIVIL HISTORY.

Of the ancient state of the parish little is known. That it was the scene of important events in times of rapine and bloodshed, may be inferred from its situation, which exposed it alike to the northern invaders, and the ravaging hordes of the Ebudæ, in their attacks on the neighbouring coasts; and is indicated by its sepulchral antiquities, and the appearances of places of defence still remaining. That it flourished in population and in wealth, is to be gathered from its remains of religious edifices, of a date when the distinction of any place for its sacred erections was no bad criterion of the consideration in which it was held for its general prosperity. But materials for an authentic history of it have not been found.

Land-owners.-The lands, for a period extending to several centuries back, appear to have been held by several proprietors called Barons-a local designation still retained. These have, within the last hundred and fifty years, been gradually reduced in number; and they are at present represented by four owners of a small portion of land respectively, the rest of the parish being the property of the Marquis of Bute.

Eminent Men. Of persons connected with the parish who attained eminence that has transmitted their memory to posterity, is to be mentioned Saint Catan, or Cathanus, whose name is preserved in the appellation Kilchatan, (Cil- Chatain, the cell or burying place of Catan,) belonging to the bay so called; and in that of Suidhe Chatain, a hill overlooking the bay, and pointed out as his seat. Saint Blane also has here monuments of his fame. Tradition assigns to him this parish as the place of his birth; adding many particulars respecting him grossly fabulous, and not deserving to be recorded. He is commonly believed to have been the founder of the original church of Kingarth, of which the ruins remain, and which is still called by his name; as is also a hill which ascends from the Garroch-head.

Parochial Register.—The parochial register commences in the year 1648, from which date it is continued with partial interrup

tions down to the year 1703. It resumes in 1740, and is regularly kept till 1820, when it is again interrupted till 1827; from which period, it is complete to the present time. It occupies five volumes.

Antiquities.-Near the north-east shore of Kilchatan Bay are two barrows or tumuli, at a short distance from each other. One similar, farther along the same shore, was opened some time since, and some pieces of old weapons were dug out of it. All barrows of this description, it is believed, will be found to contain sepulchral remains.

In the peninsula which connects the northern and southern portions of the parish, half a mile from the east shore, are what have been considered the remains of a Druidical circle. The circle is imperfect towards the north-west; but it is distinctly indicated by three stones placed upright, at a distance of from 23 to 25 feet from each other. They are from 7 to 8 feet high from the surface of the ground; in breadth from 4 to 6 feet; and from 15 inches to 6 feet thick. The circle has been supposed, when entire, to have been formed by seven stones; but the vacant space appears to leave room only for two, and to limit the original number to five. Nearly half a mile distant, towards the west shore, also stand three stones, which have been variously conjectured to have been connected with Druidical rites, or to mark a scene of battle, and to have served as monuments for persons who fell in it. Most probably it was the latter object for which they were erected. They are situated on a plain at the foot of a gently rising ground, half a mile distant from the bay of Stravanan, where an enemy was likely to land; and indicate a position singularly favourable for a defending force. On the other hand, they have little appearance of a Druidical erection. They are placed in a line running nearly from north to south, and are made to face towards the east and west; and although their direction has a slight inclination towards being circular, the circumstance may have been accidental: and if they formed part of a circle it must have been greatly larger than that above-mentioned. They stand closer, too, than the stones in the former, the distance betwixt them little exceeding 7 feet. In dimensions, the stones are both nearly alike.

A mile farther south, on the west shore, is the fort of Dun-nagoil (the fortified hill, or rock, of the Lowlanders), near the bay to which it gives name. It is formed by a ridge of rock 50 feet high, rising with a steep ascent from the sea on the west side, perpendi

cular to the north and east, narrow and difficult of access towards the south, with a level space of some extent on the summit. Along the verge of this space, towards the west and south, are the remains of a wall, built apparently for the defence of the place, where it was most accessible, the precipitousness of the rock serving for a natural defence on the other sides. The external parts of this wall appear to have been completely vitrified. The heart is formed of stone partially fused. The stone chiefly used in the structure is whinstone, of which the rock itself is composed. The station is a very advantageous one. It commands the most natural, and perhaps the best landing-place on the whole coast; and it affords a complete view seawards, at once of the passage from the western seas by Kilbranan sound, and of the entrance into the Frith of Clyde from the south. All surmises as to its era or use are now vain. It has been conjectured to have been a Danish fort; its name would rather point it out to have been a hold, occupied, for whatever purpose, by inhabitants of the neighbouring eastern or southern coasts, who, in common with those who dwelt in the interior southern portion of Scotland, were usually described in the Gaelic tongue by the term signifying Lowlander, as retained in the designation of this place.

Towards the centre of the peninsula, stands the ruin of the church or chapel of St Blane, supposed to have been founded by the saint whose name it bears, who flourished about the close of the tenth century. That a church existed here at a period not much posterior, and that he was commonly regarded as having been a benefactor to it, there is evidence still extant to show. In a charter given by Allan, son of Walter the Second, Great Steward of Scotland, dated before the year 1204, conveying certain grants to the monastery of the Clunian order at Paisley, is contained the following clause :*" Also, for the benefit of the soul of King David, and the soul of King Malcolm, and the souls of Walter my father, and Eschene my mother; and for the salvation of our Lord William, King of Scotland, and his heirs, and the salvation of myself

"Præterea ego ipse pro anima regis David, et pro anima regis Malcomi, et pro anima patris mei Walteri, et matris meæ Eschene, et pro salute domini nostri Wilelmi regis Scotie, et heredum suorum, et pro salute mei ipsius, et heredum meorum, dono, concedo, et hac mea carta confirmo eidem domui de Passelet, et monachis ibidem Deo servientibus, ecclesiam de Kingaif in insula de Bote, cum omnibus capellis et tota parochia ejusdem insulæ, et cum tota terra quam sanctus Blanissicum dicitur? olim cinxit a mari usque ad mare per metas certas et apparentes." Registrum Monasterii de Passelet. Printed by the Maitland Club.

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