the habitable world, so profound and cheerless is the apparently interminable scene. Steep mountains and broken rocks impend over the glen on both sides; and from several elevated points of the road an extensive view is obtained of the steril gloom, which increases in every mile of our advance. Sometimes mountainstreams descend between the crannies of the rocks, their channels encumbered by huge and rugged masses, denoting the fury of their passage in the wintry months. In a few small intervening vales are found dots of human habitation, surrounded by strips of pasture, and shielded by scanty plantations. But these recluse dwellings fail to enliven the view, and rather augment the chilling effects of this desolate scene, by identifying man, in a severity of privations, with the awful aspect of nature in her frowning mood. The Avonbeg takes rise in Glenmalaur, but winds through its terrors with few touches of alleviating beauty. Beyond the rocky barriers on each side, are spread unfriendly mountains, in long succession. The glen terminates in a rocky ascent, down which the waters of the highlands fall precipitately. Beyond lies a vast tract of uninhabited mountain and bog.

The few features of artificial cultivation connected with this cheerless district, may be noticed in a brief section. Near the entrance of the glen, and softening the approach to its most obscure parts, is a substantial dwelling, the residence of W. Kemmis, Esq. The wild country in the vicinity of this house is ameliorated by extensive plantations. Deep in the solitude of the valley are barracks, capable of holding 300 infantry; and, at the distance of about one mile from the barracks, are lead mines, worked with some success.*

The historical particulars relating to Glenmalaur require more

* We should not omit to observe that in the vicinity of the barracks is an inn, of a homely character, but well provided with the solid essentials of accommodation. As a proof that the traveller visiting Glendalogh, or otherwise led to this remote tract, need not fear trusting to the comforts of this "hostel,” it may be observed that the present writer, in September, 1819, succeeded in the occupancy of the principal apartments to a noble earl and his lady, who possess much neighbouring property, and had passed several days on this recluse spot.

extended notice. Its mazy recesses would appear suited to the retreat of predatory bands; its sable mountains and craggy rocks want no finishing touches of the terrific, except legends of martial exploit: and history, in many tragic pages, supplies images to complete the thrill of soul to which the spectator is subject. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth this glen afforded a principal fastness to the celebrated Pheagh Mac Hugh O'Byrne, whose courage and power are sufficiently evinced by the reluctant testimony of several contemporary writers.

We have already observed that the hardy natives of this county were long enabled, by the natural advantages of their territory, to hold at bay the English in their utmost pride of military discipline, and that they also committed acts perniciously aggressive, by rapidly entering and spoiling contiguous cultivated and enriched districts. Their mountainous retreats, indeed, formed an asylum for malcontents, and constituted the head-quarters of the disaffected in this part of the island. So vexatious, if not formidable, was found the continued warfare agitated by these mountain-septs, that, when Sir James Crofts was deputed to the government of Ireland, in 1551, he was instructed, "above all things, to reduce the Byrnes and Tooles, and their country."

Amongst the leaders of the O'Byrnes, in the sixteenth century, Pheagh Mac Hugh excelled in the qualities most dreaded by the English government. Spencer, whose dislike of the Irish prevented him from justly appreciating any individual character of this nation, speaks of Pheagh Mac Hugh with unfounded contempt, although with unequivocal alarm.* Concerning the tenour of his

* After using arguments to show that the right to the country over which Pheagh Mac Hugh exercised domination, was "absolutely in her majesty," Spencer observes that, "if it were not, yet could it not be in this Feagh, but in O'Brin, which is the ancient lord of all that countrey; for he and his auncestours were but followers unto O'Brin; and his grandfather Shane Mac Terlagh, was a man of meanest regard amongst them, neither having wealth nor power. But his sonne, Hugh Mac Shane, the father of this Feagh, first began to lift up his head, and through the strength and great fastness of Glan-malor, which adjoyneth unto his house of Ballinecor, drew unto him many theeves and out-lawes, which fled unto

actions, as they were injurious to the public peace, there can be now but one opinion. The dispassionate examiner, however, must admit that whilst he was, assuredly, one of the bravest and most wily of Elizabeth's Irish opponents, he was not destitute of generosity, and several other virtues, which acted in alleviation of hereditary ferocity, and dignified the rude grandeur of his cha

racter.

At Balynacor, on the verge of Glenmalaur, this renowned chieftain held his unpolished court; and the glen, with its precincts, afforded to his desultory bands a fastness more secure than artificial ramparts of stone. Spencer, noticing Pheagh Mac Hugh, in his "View of the State of Ireland," observes, that "all the parts about him being up in a madding moode, as the Moores in Leix, the Cavenaghes in the county of Wexford, and some of the Butlers in the county of Kilkenny, they all flocke unto him, and drawe into his countrey, as to a strong hould, where they thinke to be safe from all that prosecute them. And from thence they doe, at their pleasures, breake out into all the borders adjoyning, which are well peopled countries, as the counties of Dublin, of Kildare, of Catherlagh, of Kilkenny, of Wexford, with the spoiles whereof they victuall and strengthen themselves."

Some few dates connected with the career of this chief of the O'Byrnes, the legend of whose exploits is so peculiarly consonant with the wild, tumultuary, and fearful character of Glenmalaur, may not be altogether unacceptable. In the years 1577, 1578, and 1580, he, in alliance with several malcontent lords, of Anglo-Norman derivation, harassed the English pale; and in the last-named year he obtained a sanguinary victory, at Glendalogh, not far from Glenmalaur. In 1595, on a reverse of

the succour of that glynne, as to a sanctuary, and brought unto him part of the spoyle of all the countrey, through which he grew strong, and in short space got unto himselfe a great name thereby amongst the Irish, in whose footing this his sonne continuing, hath, through many unhappy occasions, increased his said name, and the opinion of his greatness, insomuch that now he is become a dangerous enemy to deale withall." View of the State of Ireland, &c.

fortune, he made his submission at Dublin; and, on the following day, Captain Richard Wingfield was knighted by the viceroy, as a reward for his services against so potent a chieftain. On the 30th of December, 1596, his sept was defeated by the British troops, after a sharp action; and the year 1597, was the last of his turbulent life. He fell in an engagement with the Lord Deputy, Sir William Russell, fought on the 7th of May; and his son, Phelim Mac Pheagh, was elected to supply his place, as chief of the O'Byrnes.*

In the year 1600, Phelim Mac Pheagh made a humble submission to Queen Elizabeth, in company with several other Irish toparchs; but he gave offence to the government before the expiration of the same year; and we find, in the first volume of Moryson's History, an account of an expedition undertaken against him by the Deputy (Lord Mountjoy), who appeared before his house so suddenly, that he with difficulty escaped at a back window, and his wife and eldest son were taken prisoners. This chief of the O'Byrnes died at his castle of Balynacor, in the year 1630, leaving issue several sons, to the eldest of whom (this county having then become shire ground) he demised the castle and demense. The descendants of Pheagh Mac Hugh, in the senior male line, became extinct in the early part of the eighteenth

* We cannot conclude our notice of this upland warrior, who had many qualifications which might have obtained a high degree of heroic fame, in better days, and under different circumstances of fortune, without observing that there is now in the possession of Sir W. Betham a curious MS. which formerly belonged to the Chevalier de Montmorency, and contains an account of the marriage between Pheagh Mac Hugh and Rose Ny-Toole. It appears, from this instrument, that all the lands belonging to the sept were held in common by those of the name. The O'Byrne, or chief, presiding alone over the castles and fortresses, claimed no distinct title, separately from the tribe, over any portion of their domain. Hence all the members of the sept were obliged to subscribe their assent to the jointure of Pheagh Mac Hugh's wife, and to have the same settled upon the whole of their lands and possessions. The trustees to this article, which bears date 1593, were Henry Walsh of Shanganagh, and Pierce Walsh of Kilgobbin, Esquires; Redmond Mac Pheagh, and Phelim Mac Pheagh, the sons of the chieftain, being parties to the same.

century. The present Sir John-Fleming-Leicester Byrne, of Tably, in the county of Chester, Bart. and the family of Byrne, of Cabinteely, in the county of Dublin, and of Balymanus, county of Wicklow, are descended from junior branches.

Such are the mountainous wilds amidst which, in deep solitude and awful quiet, is situated GLENDALOGH, celebrated in early ages of christianity for the comparative splendour of its religious piles, and for a city of considerable population; now a melancholy waste, romantic in character, and rich in antiquities, but visited by few, except the curious traveller and fanciful pilgrim.* Previous to a description of this singular glen, and a notice of its architectural vestiges, it must be desirable that we should present an outline of historical intelligence respecting its rise in celebrity, and the circumstances which caused it to be abandoned as a place of residence.

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St. Coemgene, or Keivin, by which latter appellation he is usually distinguished, is said to have descended from a noble family, and was born in the year 498. At the age of seven years he was placed under the care and tuition of Petrocus, a Briton, who had passed many years in Ireland for the exercise of learning. After pursuing his more advanced studies, for a considerable time, in the cell of three holy anachorites," St. Keivin embraced the monastic profession. On taking upon him the cowl, he retired, says Archdall, "to these wilds, where he wrote many learned works." It is generally admitted that he founded an abbey at Glendalogh, and presided here as abbot and bishop for many years. He died on the 3rd of June, 618, "having nearly completed the uncommon and venerable age of 120 years."

* The annexed view of Glendalogh is taken at a short distance from the Ivy-church, on the road leading to the bridge, or stepping stones. In the vale below are seen the round tower, with the remains of the cathedral and those of Trinity church. More to the left is St. Keivin's kitchen, with its small attached tower. The high mountain above the buildings is Kemyderry. The mountain in shade on the left is Derrybawn; and that in the distance is Lugduff. In the latter mountain is the recess, or rocky chamber, called St. Keivin's bed.