ADVERSE WINDS-ST. MICHAEL'S.

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from a dim cloud hovering on the verge of the horizon. Next morning we were within a few miles of St. Michael's. The sky was cloudless and serene, the fishing boats of the natives were rowing about, land birds were sweeping in airy circles around us, and the eye rested, with a hitherto unknown delight, upon the green verdure of the swelling eminences which receded from the rocky shore.

St. Michael's, the largest of the Azores, or Hawk islands, as the name signifies, bears like the others, every appearance of a volcanic origin. The shore is most generally bold and precipitous, and in many places around it huge and shapeless rocks start abruptly out of the water; some of them broad and square, showing patches of vegetation, others bare and splintered, and at a distance resembling somewhat the dilapidated columns of an ancient temple. Backwards from the rocky shore the ground heaves with graceful undulations, between which may be sometimes seen scattered cottages and inclosures, but I could discover few trees of any considerable size. These hills terminate in a bare rocky ridge, which appeared to us to traverse the greater part of the island.

Doubling the northern point, and gaining sight of the principal town and harbour, we tacked and stood in. A westerly breeze would now for the first time have favoured us, but during the preceding night it had shifted to the eastward, and we

soon found that it would be difficult to make the port. Unwilling to lose entirely the benefit of the change, our captain determined to abandon the attempt, and to make rather for Fayal, about three degrees of longitude farther. in our direct course for America. The vessel was therefore put about, the yards were squared, the studding sails for the first time spread before the breeze, and now

"Merrily, merrily goes the bark,

Before the gale she bounds;

So starts the dolphin from the shark,
Or the stag before the hounds."

But disappointment reigned on board. We had assured ourselves of setting foot on dry land, the steward's shoe brushes had been busy in the morning, we were all rigged out in our best, and now our eager anticipations were baffled, by what we least expected, a fair wind. The waves were curling their white tops behind us, and the vessel driving gaily along at the rate of seven or eight knots an hour, but we could not help gazing wistfully over the stern, at the rapidly receding shores of St. Michael's.

The following day was cloudy, but the wind continued fair, and early in the forenoon we descried the conical summit of the Peak of Pico, resting in solitary magnificence above a throne of clouds. The height of this mountain is estimated at 9000 in fine weather it is seen at a distance of 25

feet;

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PEAK OF PICO-FAYAL.

7

leagues, and now its lofty apex was a land mark in our view, long before we could discover the base of the island. Gradually it enlarged at our approach, and in a few hours we entered the narrow channel between Pico and Fayal.

Villa Orta, the principal town in Fayal, is built in the form of a crescent, in the hollow of a little bay towards the middle of the island, and, from the water, has rather an imposing appearance. The ground slopes up pretty abruptly from the shore, and the houses, which are almost universally white washed, with black mouldings and projections, overtop each other as they recede; several churches and other large buildings relieve the eye at intervals, and some inconsiderable fortifications skirt the beach. The deep toned peal of church and convent bells floated through the air as we passed, and we felt gratified at the prospect of mingling again in the busy hum of men.

Except in this little bay there is no anchorage ground; the shore everywhere else is as steep and rocky as that of St. Michael's, and the water of great depth. The wind, however, blew so strong that the Captain thought it dangerous to enter, and it was not till the following day, after having made the circuit of the island, that we had the satisfaction of letting go the anchor; we were now within a quarter of a mile of the shore, and yet found 21 fathoms water. In a short time we were visited by the health boat, and after a few pre

liminary ceremonies, we received permission to go on shore.

I accompanied the captain to the office of Mr. D—, the American consul, and after the necessary orders had been given for the supplies which we required, we were invited by the consul to accompany him home.

The residence of this gentleman is in a beautiful situation at a short distance from the town; the house fronts the sea, and commands a view of Pico. The garden with which it is surrounded, is such as cannot be seen in our inhospitable clime. Skirting the upper part of it, was a hedge composed entirely of geraniums, about six feet high, containing every variety of leaf and flower, and blooming with all the luxuriance of summer. Scattered in the richest profusion along the walks, were orange, lemon, and citron trees, covered with blossoms and fruit in every stage of advancement; and thus they appear the whole year round, with only this exception, that the principal crop is ripe about the month of December or January, at which period the fruit is exported. Roses fully blown were shedding their fragrance, the peach tree and the acacia were covered with blossoms, and around were the sugar cane, the tea and coffee shrubs, the almond tree, and the fig. All these were in full verdure, the vines alone were bare.

We saw

also the dark green shrub, from which it is said

AMERICAN Consul's residence.

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that the island takes its name; its buds, however, had not then burst.

We returned in the evening to the vessel, with a large basket of the most delicious oranges, a present from Mr. D- and an invitation to the cabin passengers to spend the following day with his family. We found on board a number of the natives, spreading out on the deck various articles of merchandise, among which were little red baskets of very delicate workmanship, some of which I secured as a memorial of my visit.

At breakfast next morning, I remarked the want of a fire place in the parlour where we sat; but fire places, except in the kitchen, are here unknown. The thermometer ranges from 52° to 80° Fahr., consequently the islanders know nothing either of cold or of excessive heat. Vegetation never ceases. To counterbalance these advantages, the whole of the Azores are liable to frequent earthquakes, and even to occasional volcanic eruptions.

To occupy a part of the forenoon, a visit was proposed to some of the churches, where the ceremonies of Lent were going forward. Under the patronage of Mr. D's son, we found ready access by a private passage to one of the largest; and were permitted to stand within a few yards of the altar, apart from the congregation, where we were recognised as mere spectators of what was going forward.

The scene which presented itself was of the most