SECTION V.

Morning at Matlock.- Via Gellia.-Hopton.-Sir John Gell. Carsington. Rocks in the Vicinity of Brassington. — Derbyshire Trossacks. — Tissington. - Ancient Custom of Dressing Wells with Flowers. - Night Walk to Ashborne.

WE

E spent the night at Matlock, and the following morning proceeded on our excursion. When we left this romantic place, the woods that lie embosomed within the deep hollow of the Dale were vocal with the song of birds, every where warbling forth their matin orisons to the new-born day. The rush of the Derwent was accompanied with a prolonged and softened sound, that, mingled with the lively strains of these feathered choristers, gave a richer and mellower tone to their wild but harmonious chantings. We quitted Matlock with regret passed through the artificial opening that has been made in Scarthing Rock - left the greyhound-inn at Cromford, on our right — and entered into a deep but narrow dale that leads to Bonsal and Via Gellia. A scene near the mill, at the entrance into Bonsal Dale, particularly attracted our attention rocks, and hills, and wood, and water, are here most happily combined. I once heard the younger Reinagle observe," that he never met with a more picturesque composition in nature than is here presented."

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Following the route we had prescribed to ourselves, we left the road to Bonsal on our right, and passed along Via Gellia, on our way to Hopton. I entered on this classically denominated road without any pleasurable anticipations. The recollections of a former journey obtruded upon me, and I experienced a tediousness of feeling, that could only be ascribed to disappointed expectations on a former occasion. It was then the first week in September, but the weather was as hot as in July; not a cloud was seen in the heavens, and a mid-day sun poured a flood of light and heat into the dales

through which Via Gellia is carried. All was glare and flutter to the eye; not a spot of shadow intervened to afford a moment's shelter from the warm rays of a clear sun, which a dusty limestone road rendered almost unbearable. Under such circumstances hardly any place could be tolerable; I therefore passed along a road celebrated for its scenery, heartily wishing myself in any other part of Derbyshire, and wondering at the taste that had discovered any thing like beauty in Via Gellia. Thus the mind throws its own sickly or healthful hues over the objects of its contemplation, and wraps them in gloom, or adorns them with loveliness, agreeably to the emotions by which it is influenced — as ill-humour dictates, or cheerful thoughts prevail. I now beheld Via Gellia under more fortunate circumstances, and with other feelings; cloud and sunshine, a gleam of light and then a passing shadow, moved over the hills, increased their natural beauty, and made one forget the monotony of form and clothing by which they are distinguished. High sloping acclivities, chiefly covered with hazels, and sparingly sprinkled with dwarf oak, and ash, mark each side of the road: hence every turn that it makes, instead of a new scene, presents only a repetition of the past—and the parts as they succeed are so similar in character and appearance, that we felt as if we were walking the same ground over again, and made no sensible progress in our journey. A gradual ascent of a few miles at length brought us to the top of the hills that separate Hopton from Matlock. In whatever direction we looked, the country was beautiful. The road we had passed was marked by a continued range of eminences, the outlines of which played into, and were blended with each other, in pleasing and almost endless variety. We now discovered that we had passed through Via Gellia in a direction that prevented us from fully appreciating its picturesque qualities. In ascending towards Hopton, our view was bounded by the hills that closely environed us; descending, the prospect is every where varied and full of beauty: the different eminences amongst which the road winds are seen rising behind each other, their summits enveloped in a soft aerial tint, and gradually becoming more shadowy in form, and indistinct in outline, as they recede into distance, where they are lost among others still more remote. I one evening passed on the outside of a carriage along this romantic road to Matlock. We shot rapidly through the dales: the quick succession of scenery, and the frequent shifting of the hills before us,

APPROACH TO HOPTON. SIR JOHN GELL.

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which seemed to change their positions at every turn we made, together with the rich tone of colouring that a declining sun spread over them, produced an effect almost magical. The whole soon passed away, and left an impression on the mind more like the recollection of a dream than the remembrance of any thing that had actually occurred.

Approaching Hopton, the country assumes a different character; the upper stratum is still lime, but the few rocks and hills that occur are diminutive, when compared with those we had left behind us; yet, as a mineral district, it is interesting and important and immediately in the neighbourhood of Hopton it is picturesque and beautiful. As we descended the hill towards the village a deep dale lay before us, and the elevated grounds on our right were crested with wood. The road we were pursuing was dark with the shadows of closelytangled boughs and spreading foliage; and our right was thickly beset with some of the loftiest trees in the county of Derby, between whose tall trunks we occasionally caught a glimpse of verdant slopes and rocky knolls beyond, where the light played vividly; and many a lovely picture of this description we beheld on our approach to Hopton. Emerging from amongst the trees at the foot of the hill, we came upon a more open country, over which Hopton Hall enjoys a delightful prospect. This pleasant mansion, the residence of Philip Gell, Esq. M. P., is a good modern structure, and finely situated at the foot of a steep eminence, amongst a thick mass of luxuriant wood, intermingled with jutting craggs and verdant knolls. The Hopton estate has been in the family of the GELLS upwards of two centuries. In 1642, John Gell was created a baronet by Charles the First, but he did not, however, attach himself to the King's party on this account. He was indeed the first individual of consequence in the county of Derby, who took up arms in the cause of parliament. He was an active and zealous partizan, and his example influenced the determinations of his neighbours so entirely, that Lord Clarendon observes," there was in Derbyshire no visible party for the king, the whole country being under the influence of Sir John Gell." After the termination of the war, he complained of the treatment he had received from the very power whose cause he had espoused, whose battles he had fought, and whose exertions he had assisted with large contributions from his own purse, greatly to the injury of his fortune. He likewise sustained considerable loss when his

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BRASSINGTON PASTURES.

house was plundered by the enemy, for which he received no compensation. In 1650, this enterprising officer had serious charges preferred against him: he was tried for misprision of treason, and was sentenced, by the high court of justice, to be imprisoned for life, and his estates to be confiscated; but two years afterwards he obtained the remission of his sentence. With the third baronet, Sir Philip Gell, who died in 1719, the title became extinct.

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Situated close to Hopton is the village of Carsington, one side of which is built under some limestone rocks, whose crags jut over the tops of the houses; but there is nothing in the place that a tourist would stop to notice. Leaving Carsington, we enquired our way to Brassington; and, strange as it may appear, the man of whom we asked the question, although he was a resident in the neighbourhood, told us "he did not know such a place." We then enquired the name of the village we had left: he answered, "Carson, to be sure.” "And what place do we come at next?” "Brasson," he replied. These answers solved the mystery; the three syllables were cut down into two, which we found was the customary pronunciation of the country; - we were, therefore, prepared for these contractions in future.

Shortly after leaving Carsington, we crossed into the fields called Brassington pastures. In these pastures, and on the higher grounds north of the village, several curious specimens of rock scenery are to be found. In some places, insulated masses rise out of the ground, assuming a variety of fantastic forms; in others, a ridge of bare limestone crags crests an eminence with a line of rocky arrows, into which it is split and divided. These innumerable spires, that look like a long continuation of huge sharks' teeth, are frequently met with in the vicinity of Brassington. In a publication, now preparing for the press, that I have lately seen, they are denominated the Derbyshire Trossacks; but in the district to which they particularly belong, they, as well as the insulated rocks I have before alluded to, are known by different appellations; Peter's Pike, Elder Tor, Reynard's Tor, and Horboro Rocks, near the top of which there is said to be a hermitage and the remains of a well; and others of a similar description, have here "local habitation and a name." These rocks are not picturesque objects in landscape, but their forms and character render them worthy of the observation of geologists.

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Dove Dale was the chief object of our excursion; and, as

the day was fast declining, we passed through Bradbourn without a pause, crossed the Ashbourne road about a mile and a half from Grange Mill, and pursued our way along some pleasant fields to Tissington, a village distinguished by the residence of the ancient family of the Fitzherberts. In the year 1643, Tissington Hall was garrisoned for the king; but, in consequence of the unsuccessful result of a battle fought near Ashbourne between the parliamentary and royal forces, it was evacuated early in the following year. This old mansion, together with the estate and manor appertaining thereto, are now the property of Sir Henry Fitzherbert, Bart., who resides at the Hall, and who succeeded his elder brother, Sir Anthony, in the year 1799.

An ancient custom still prevails in the village of Tissington, to which indeed it appears to be confined for I have not met with any thing of a similar description in any other part of Derbyshire. It is denominated WELL-FLOWERING, and Holy Thursday is devoted to the rites and ceremonies of this elegant custom. The day is regarded as a festival; and all the wells in the place, five in number, are decorated with wreaths and garlands of newly-gathered flowers, disposed in various devices. Sometimes boards are used, which are cut to the figure intended to be represented, and covered with moist clay, into which the stems of the flowers are inserted, to preserve their freshness; and they are so arranged as to form a beautiful mosaic work, often tasteful in design and vivid in colouring the boards, thus adorned, are so placed in the spring, that the water appears to issue from amongst beds of flowers. On this occasion the villagers put on their best attire, and open their houses to their friends. There is service at the church, where a sermon is preached; afterwards a procession takes place, and the wells are visited in succession: the psalms for the day, the epistle and gospel, are read, one at each well, and the whole concludes with a hymn, sung by the church singers, and accompanied by a band of music. This done, they separate, and the remainder of the day is spent in rural sports and holiday pastimes.

The custom of Well-Flowering, as it exists at Tissington, is said to be a Popish relic; but in whatever way it originated, one would regret to see it discontinued. That it is of great antiquity cannot be disputed; it seems to have existed, at dif ferent periods of time, in countries far remote from each other. In the earlier ages of poetry and romance, wherever fountains