336

SUGGESTED IMPROVEMENTS.

along its obvious channel? - The river scenery of Ilam will then be as beautiful as its woods. Other improvements may be made in this romantic place: the wood immediately connected with the house, should be rendered less impervious and gloomy. It should be made to assume the character of a grove, rather than a wood, and the trees, where they closely beset each other, should be partly removed, and a pleasant walk established amongst them, from whence occasional glimpses of the scenery beyond might be admitted. When the mansion now erecting is completed, this will no doubt be done, and other improvements added, to make Ilam one of the most delightful residences in the kingdom, and an object of attraction to all who visit Dove Dale.

The architecture that most prevailed in the reign of Elizabeth, has been made choice of for Ilam Hall. This peculiar style of building requires" ample space and room enough:" wanting these, it is sometimes devoid both of grandeur and of beauty. The structures of this period were immense, and the park scenery around them of great extent. It is perhaps from association only, that such edifices, and such scenes, appear to be the natural concomitants of each other; but there seems to be a fitness in things that are usually connected, and time sanctions the union. Hence it probably is, that the splendid but ill-contrived structures of Elizabeth's reign, are not exactly adapted to the scenery of the quiet vale of Ilam, which appears to shun the gaze of the world, not court it. A building of richly ornamented Gothic, like the structure at Fonthill, would have been a fine object in such a place. The monks and abbots of former times would gladly have selected so retired and so beautiful a situation: they loved to fix their habitations in picturesque dales and valleys, amongst embowering woods and murmuring streams; where, secluded from the noise and bustle of the world, nature's happiest harmonies and sweetest melodies alone prevail.

The preceding observations were written shortly after my first visit to Ilam, which I again saw in June, 1823. The scenery of the place had excited my highest admiration; it was still fresh in my recollection, and I anxiously wished that the new structure should be every way worthy of so fine a situation. I therefore approached the romantic vale where it stands, under the influence of a more powerful interest than if I had been an entire stranger to its beauties. Descending the hill from Thorpe, I had the first view of the object of my

VISIT TO ILAM IN 1823.

337

Journey. Ilam Hall, though not entirely finished, had a grand effect even at a distance; approaching nearer, the detail began to display itself, and the general design and arrangement to be clearly understood. On a verdant knoll, a little above the margin of the river Manyfold, that ran rippling and sparkling through the meadows below, I stopped to gaze upon the new mansion at Ilam, which is truly a noble structure, and a proof of the professional skill and taste of the architect. * The principal part of the building, with its large bay windows, octagonal projections, and richly ornamented parapets, is in that peculiar style of architecture which was fashionable in the reign of Elizabeth; but there are portions of this structure that nearly assimilate with the gothic, both in character and ornament, and these are decidedly the finest and most imposing parts. The whole appears to be admirably contrived, both for picturesque effect and convenience; but the most beautiful feature in this noble mansion is the circular gothic lantern by which it is surmounted. It is not a paltry thing, made merely for the purpose of admitting light; its dimensions are ample, and perfectly in proportion with the capacious base whereon it rests. The circle of which it is composed presents to the eye a series of pointed arches, resting on appropriate shafts: these, in connexion with each other, describe a circle, and constitute the frame-work of the lantern. Where light is wanted in the central part of a building, the dome is sometimes so constructed as to be a noble ornament; but the lantern at Ilam is a more noble contrivance, and one of the most tasteful and elegant architectural ornaments that ever adorned a building. The place altogether does infinite credit to the taste and liberal spirit of the proprietor, who will make this romantic spot this beauteous gem in British scenery- not less attractive than its neighbouring Dove Dale. I have here mentioned a part only of what is already accomplished at Ilam: a museum, a splendid conservatory, and a picture-gallery, upwards of eighty feet long, are intended to be added. J. Watts Russel is in possion of some fine works of modern art, and he is rapidly increasing his collection by new purchases. Hilton's picture of "Una amongst the Satyrs," which in colouring, composition, and character, is a chef-d'oeuvre of the British school of painting, and Howard's "Solar System," a composition

* John Shaw, Esq. of Bedford Square, London.

338

INTENDED PICTURE GALLERY.

of rare and varied excellence, fine imagination, and elegant poetic feeling, already form a part of those select productions of the pencil which are intended to adorn the picture-gallery at Ilam Hall. * The spirited proprietor of this delightful place, in his purchase of works of art, is not only influenced by good taste but by true English feeling. He knows there is abundance of fine talent in his own country, which, if duly encouraged, and exercised on subjects of history and imagination, might produce works worthy of being associated in the same apartment with the best productions of any age or nation in the the world.

SECTION VIII.

Wirksworth. Moote Hall. Mineral Laws. Miraculous Escape of a Miner. - New Road from Matlock to Derby.Unexpected Rencontre. General Character of the Scenery. Beautiful Effect of Light during a Shower of Rain.

Walk to Belper.

It

ABOUT three miles south of Matlock Bath, within a capacious amphitheatre of hills, lies WIRKSWORTH, the principal town in the mineral districts of Derbyshire. It is a place of great antiquity, and was of some note as early as the Conquest. is situated on the acclivity of a fine sweep of hill, that forms one side of a pleasant valley. Like all old towns, it is irregularly built, but it contains a number of good houses, and several very genteel families reside in the place. The church is built in the form of a cross, with a square tower in the centre, which is surmounted with a short conical spire that has neither grace nor dignity in its appearance. At the time I visited Wirksworth, this venerable structure was undergoing a thorough regeneration: the pews were taken down, the pavements broken up, and vaults were excavating in various parts of the church. The monuments against the walls were covered to protect them from the dust, nothing but dirt and litter were to be seen; and, instead of the solemn breathings of the organ, and the sounds of psalmody, the noise of saws and hammers, mingled with an occasional laugh and the clamour of tongues, were heard along the aisles. The whole place, indeed, appeared less like a church than a huge workshop, where every thing was in confusion and disorder.

During our stay at Wirksworth, we stopped at the Lion inn, a good house of entertainment, where we found a public news-room, and for a while amused ourselves with the conflicting opinions and observations of the Courier and the Morning Chronicle. Truth, says an ancient sage, lies in the bottom of a well perhaps it would be as reasonable an expectation to

340

MOOTE HALL AT WIRKSWORTH.

find it there, as in the columns of these two rival papers. Wirksworth is the seat of the administration of the mineral laws for the Low Peak of Derbyshire; and the Moote Hall is the judicial session house where all complaints are heard, and all suits decided, that belong to this peculiar court.

The MOOTE HALL is a neat stone building, with the town's arms carved over the door, and on each side are some emblematic devices in bas-relievo. Within, secured by a chain, is the ancient brazen dish which regulates the admeasurement of lead ore throughout the whole district. The following inscription is engraved upon it:

"This dishe was made the iiij day of October, the iiij yere of the reigne of Kyng Henry the VIII. before George Erle of Shrewesbury, Steward of the Kyng most Honourable household, and also Steward of all the honour of Tutbury, by the assent and consent as well of all the Mynours as of all the Brenners within and adjoining the Lordship of Wyrkysworth Pervell of the said honour. This Dyshe to Remayne In the Moote Hall at Wyrkysworth, hanging by a cheyne, so as the Mchanntes or Mynours may have resort to the same att all tymes to make the trw mesure at the same."

The lead mines of Derbyshire are of very remote antiquity. The Odin mine at Castleton bears the name of one of the Saxon deities; it may, therefore, be inferred that it was known to, and worked by the Saxons, previously to the introduction of Christianity. In the wapentake of Wirksworth there were lead mines so early as the year 835; at which time a grant was made by the abbess of Repton, of her estate at Wircesworth, on condition that an annual stipend of lead, of the value of three hundred shillings, should be paid for certain religious uses as she then directed. The laws that now govern the mining interests of this county contain some curious provisions: how they originated is now difficult to determine; but, from indisputable records, it appears "that Edward the First directed the Sheriff of the County to call a meeting at Ashbourne, of such persons as were best acquainted with the rights and customs of the Mines." On this occasion, their privileges were ascertained and confirmed, the two courts of Moneyash and Wirksworth established, and a code of permanent regulations adopted. These regulations constitute the mineral law of Derbyshire at the present time. The principal officers of these courts are denominated bar