mal literally trampled on his own entrails at every step, a sight more disgusting than this can scarcely be conceived, and even the bull, though streaming with blood, had not nearly so repulsive an appearance. The men were secured from much danger by their own agility, by the dextrous application of their cloaks, when the animal charged them, and by the barriers placed round the circle, behind which they retired when pressed by the bull.

However repugnant this diversion may appear to every delicate and feeling mind, it is more frequented and admired by the ladies than by the gentlemen; they attend these exhibitions in their gayest dresses, applaud the address of the inhuman combatants, and feel the greatest solicitude at the different critical turns of the fight. Many of the young country gentlemen may trace their ruin to these spectacles, as decidedly as Englishmen of the same class may trace theirs to Newmarket. In fact, it is the great object which engages the attention of that description of men distinguished by the term Majos.

After this exhibition, we intended returning hither immediately, but being low water we could not get out of the river; we therefore visited the theatre, which is very neatly fitted up, and, in compliment to Lord Wellington, was crowded with the best company city, now the receptacle of the expatriated nobility of the North of Spain.

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LETTER XXVI.

SPANISH MEN OF WAR-NAVAL OFFICERS—ADMIRAL ALAVA—ALVIAR—NAVAL

ARSENAL SKILL OF THE SPANIARDS IN MANAGING BOATS-
TRAFALGAR.

BATTLE OF

CADIZ, NOV. 1809.

HAVING partaken of the hospitality of Admiral Purvis on board the Atlas, and having since visited the Santa Ana, the flag ship of Admiral Alava, I have been much gratified with the contrast; the one affording an example of order, cleanliness, and subordination, the other of confusion, filth, and want of discipline. The Spanish men of war are in appearance very fine, but they should not be too nearly approached, and especially should not be visited. The men are bad, but the officers are worse, not only in personal appearance, but also in the knowledge of their profession, and in their utter inability to command.

It is generally supposed that the officers of the Spanish navy are not very sincere patriots; that they would serve Spain if it continued independent; but that, in the event of its being subjugated by Buonaparte, they would prefer his service to that of a fugitive government under the protection of England. It is not altogether surprising that they should entertain such sentiments, as they

feel a jealousy towards the British navy, and cannot readily forgive the day of Trafalgar. They imagine, that if their ships were once carried from Spain all hope of promotion in the service, and even the service itself, would be for ever annihilated; whereas, if Joseph were to get possession of them, the same rank, and the same course of promotion would continue under their new master; and they have been so much accustomed to be blockaded in their ports by the British fleet, that they could sustain no fresh mortification, nor much addition to the wounds of their pride, if they were again to be placed in a similar situation.

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Admiral Alava, who is commander in chief at this port, pected of strong attachment to France, or at least of strong antipathy to England. He is a good-tempered man, with little information; and in the parties where I meet him appears to enjoy his segar and his cards quite as much as his naval duty. I heard him express his surprize that Admiral Purvis should remain always on board his ship when such charming amusements were to be enjoyed on shore at Cadiz. You may, perhaps, recollect the conduct of this officer at the battle of Trafalgar; he commanded one division of the Spanish fleet. In the course of the battle he was severely wounded, and his ship struck. He was boarded by an English officer, to whom he surrendered his ship, and his sword, and requested, that, on account of his wounds, he might not be removed from his own vessel, a request which humanity induced the British commander to grant. The engagement was followed by a most tremendous storm, and Alava's ship, separating from the captors, was driven near Cadiz, and got within the bay.

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Lord Collingwood sent a flag of truce to demand his prisoner, whose accidental liberation was owing to the clemency of the victor, but Alava preferred the tranquillity of Cadiz to the redemption of his honour, and refused to consider himself so far a prisoner as to relinquish his command till he was regularly exchanged. When a reconciliation between England and Spain was brought about by the revolution, Lord Collingwood visited Cadiz, but Alava, as if conscious that he had lost his honour in the estimation of this gallant man, dared not face him, but kept away till his Lordship had returned to his fleet.

I should be sorry, however, to omit mentioning the names of some true patriots among the naval officers of Spain: Lobo, who commands a fine frigate, is one of the best of their officers, and his patriotism is equal to his courage, and his talents. Miguel Alava, nephew to the Admiral, though he now commands a regiment, because the activity of the land service is at this time more congenial to his mind than the repose of the navy, must still be classed among naval officers, and is one of the best patriots in Spain. And above all, Alviar, a veteran in the service, is zealous for the cause of his country, and rejoices in her union with England: this officer commanded one of the four Spanish frigates which were intercepted before the war began; he had passed some years in South America in the course of his service, and was returning to Spain, with his wife, his children, and his wealth. When they met the British squadron, he was in a boat, returning from his commander, when his ship began to engage, and he soon saw the horrid spectacle of her explosion, and the destruction of all that he valued in life. He was carried

prisoner to England; and, on a proper representation of his case to the government, every possible. alleviation was afforded him; his family were irretrievably gone, but his wealth was generously returned, and his gratitude knows no bounds. He formed in England a matrimonial connexion with a beautiful and amiable woman, whose conduct has been uncontaminated by the pernicious influence of this voluptuous city.

The naval arsenal is at Caracas, a town at the head of the bay. It contains some fine magazines for naval stores, and every convenience for careening and fitting ships; but at present they are destitute of all those articles which are indispensable for the equipment of a fleet. There is such a want of cables that, the fleet in the bay will be in the greatest danger, unless a supply can be obtained from the British naval storehouses. at Gibraltar, before the winter gales commence. The Spaniards are considered, by our naval officers, to be very skilful in the management of gun-boats, and other smaller craft; and it appears to me, that the construction of their boats, the manner of rigging them, and the dexterity with which they are worked, deserve particular attention, and are worthy of our imitation.

The number of men subsisting by their labour on the water is very considerable, and consists of those employed in shipping and landing merchandize from the trading vessels that come to this port, of the numerous fishermen occupied in supplying the city with fish, of the boatmen engaged in bringing fresh water from St. Mary's, and of sailors in the foreign and coasting merchant ships; these have been the sources whence the royal navy of Spain has been furnished with their crews; and before the battle of Trafalgar, when