of the walls stands a Mahomedan mosque, now converted into a Christian church, the absurd ornaments of which form a striking constrast to the simple columns of the original structure.

The Alhambra was the general residence of the Moorish kings; but during the intense heat of summer they usually removed to another palace in a higher situation, on an opposite hill called the Generaliffe, which I have visited. The floors of the rooms are of marble, and have streams of the clearest water rushing through them. A garden adjoining is enriched with orange, lemon, and cyprus trees, and abounds in crystal fountains, transparent pools, and shady groves. Of late years it has been inhabited by a nobleman, who has added some modern comforts to the ancient luxuries; and though he no longer resides there, it is much frequented by the inhabitants of the city, who repair to it with their provisions, and hold their convivial meetings in halls which rival in coolness and beauty the most voluptuous palaces of Asia.

The sides of the hills round Granada abound with caves, which resemble the troglodyte habitations of the people of Abyssinia, as drawn by Mr. Salt. In the time of the Moors they formed the granaries for corn which I have already described, but now they are converted into human habitations, and are occupied by gypsies, who are very numerous in this part of Spain: they differ nothing in physiognomy from the same class of people in England, or that called Zeigners in Germany, and their habits and manners are as similar as the difference of climate will allow.

THE LAWS OF SPAIN · PATRIOTISM OF THE INHABITANTS OF GRANADA — PREPARATIONS FOR THE CONVOCATION OF THE CORTES.

GRANADA, JAN. 1810.

THIS city has a population at present only of about sixty or seventy thousand inhabitants, but is capable of containing a much greater number. The streets are generally narrow, and the houses by no means so handsome in their appearance as in the other cities I have seen. The market-place is spacious, but the houses which surround it are very despicable: few of the upper apartments have glass in the windows, and the shops below are very indifferently supplied with goods. One part of the town, which in the time of the Moors formed the Bazar, is very singular, and its appearance fully illustrates the descriptions of Eastern authors. It is not inhabited, but the gates which inclose it being shut at night, the property in the different shops is secured from theft. These shops are very small, so that the owner, sitting in the centre, can reach whatever his customers may require, without rising, which, I understand, is still the custom in the Asiatic Bazars.

PP

The cathedral is a very splendid, but irregular building; it is said to have been originally three churches, though now joined into one. The most striking parts are the high altar and the choir, in which the most beautiful marbles are employed. It contains two fine monuments, one to the memory of Philip the First and his queen Joanna, and the other to Ferdinand and Isabella. Some of the best pictures of Alonzo Cano are in this church, representing the nativity, the presentation of our Lord in the temple, the annunciation of the Virgin, and one subject, which, though it is exquisitely painted, is excessively repugnant to Protestant feelings, the Eternal Father supporting the body of his dead Son. The church is adorned by two beautiful statues of our first parents, by the same artist; the figures are as large as life, and admirably executed. Pedro de Mena, the pupil of Cano, has likewise contributed to the decorations of this cathedral. The equestrian statue of St. Iago is deemed the best of his productions.

a very

The palace of the archbishop stands close to the cathedral; it is extensive mansion, and of handsome appearance. I noticed it as the scene of some of the incidents in the history of Gil Blas, whose adventures are affirmed by all Spaniards to have been translated by Le Sage from one of their early novels.

The Captain-general of the kingdom of Granada resides in a splendid palace, and is surrounded with guards, in a style somewhat resembling a monarch. We found him polite, but extremely occupied by public business, and had therefore but little conversation with him. The principal court of justice of the province is held within the palace, and at the time we visited it, the judges were hearing

causes.

The advocates were seated, and read their arguments in a very rapid manner, but appeared to receive no attention from the judges; a matter of very little importance, however, where the determinations seldom depend upon the justice of the case.

From all that I have learnt on the subject of the laws, I apprehend nothing can be more calculated to promote litigation, to delay decision, and defeat justice, than the whole system of Spanish law. Suits are continued from generation to generation, more for the honour of conquest than from the hope of benefit; and so slow is the process, that either party, with the assistance of money, may delay judgment for a very long period; and when the judgment is pronounced, it is never considered as arising from the merits of the case, but from some unjust bias in the minds of the judges. The laws of Spain are, like ours, of two kinds; the lex inscripta, contained in an ancient work of the time of Alonzo the Wise, called Las Leyes de Partida, which resembles our common law, and the lex scripta, contained in a work published by the authority of Philip in 1577, entitled Las Leyes de Recopilacion, which is a collection of royal ordinances then in force, and may be considered as similar to our statute law; to these may be added the several ordinances promulgated in more modern times, which have the force of ancient laws.

All the decisions are supposed to be grounded on principles deduced from these sources; but the corruption of the judges and the advocates, with the chicanery of the escrivanos or attorneys, has rendered the courts the seat of legal iniquity. Criminal processes are carried on with a degree of languor which is beneficial only to the perpetrators of enormous crimes; the murderer, even if the clearest evidence

establishes his guilt, may, if he have money, remove his trial from court to court, may obtain a revision in each, and, as long as his money lasts, delay judgment in a manner which, if it does not ultimately elude punishment, at least delays it till it ceases to have an effect on any one but the sufferer. Instances are not uncommon, of wealthy criminals delaying judgment till death terminated the cause, and of others, after exhausting their means, suffering the merited punishment ten or even twenty years after the crime was committed. The court of law in this palace, to which appeals are made from all the other courts in the south of Spain, and from which there is no appeal but to the Council of Castile, which is the highest tribunal, fills the city with a number of lawyers, who make it their business to encourage the litigious and pillage the ignorant.

The Captain-general of this province has had his authority divided since the revolution, by the formation of the Provincial Junta, which was elected by the popular voice from among the most energetic opposers of the French. This Junta roused the feelings of the inha bitants, called forth their exertions, and directed them with judgment and integrity; but the election of the Central Junta, which extinguished their power, or left them only the semblance of it, has tended to damp their energies, and lull the people into that state of apathy and despondency which is the best preparative for French subjugation. I have here met with more accurate accounts of the number of men and the quantity of stores furnished for the public defence than in any other place, and they demonstrate, most forcibly, what popular energy may effect, and the evils that may be produced by stifling its exertions. After the capture of Dupont, to which the inhabitants of