formed so accurately, even by persons previously ignorant of the business, that he is now as well, and as likely to recover, as if the best had been employed.

surgeon

We have had fair wind ever since yesterday morning, and are at this time (for I began this letter three hours ago) very near Lisbon, running along the coast of Portugal at the rate of ten miles an hour and hope to reach Cape St. Vincent's this evening if the wind continue as favourable as it is at this moment. You can scarcely conceive the great difference that has taken place in our looks and spirits since the wind changed: while we were beating about between Cape Ortegal and Cape Finisterre, all was gloom and melancholy; now every one is alert, active, and as full of enjoyment as the narrow confines of our floating habitation will permit. I have found General Virues a most interesting and intelligent companion; and I have the pleasure of constantly conversing with him, as far as my progress in the Spanish language will allow. Don Ramon and Don Pedro, with Mr. Ridout, have proved a valuable addition to our society, and excepting the storm, the contrary winds off Corunna, and the Surgeon's distressing accident, we have passed the time better than could be expected on board a ship, even with all our present accommodations.

SEPT. 12, 7 O'CLOCK, MORNING.

We have had very quick sailing all night, and are now close to Cape St. Vincent's, with a wind that affords us the expectation of seeing Cadiz to-morrow morning. At the extremity of the Cape, from which we are now only a mile distant, stands a large Convent, built of white stone. The country round appears very barren; not a

tree is to be seen through the whole extent of the coast. The rocks are strikingly picturesque, but, as far as I can judge, not higher than those of Portland.

10 O'CLOCK.

We are now abreast of the town of Lagos, near enough to see the country, which is covered with vineyards, and apparently thickly peopled. The churches and houses are all white; and, by the flat roofs and turrets seem in the style of Moorish architecture. There are several convents in sight, and a prodigious high mountain rises in the back ground, covered with woods. From the columns of smoke ascending, we suppose they are making charcoal, as I understand the cities of St. Luçar and Cadiz are chiefly supplied with that article from this place.

SEPTEMBER 14, 8 o'CLOCK, MORNING.

The last two days we have had continual calms, and have consequently made but little progress. We are however now in sight of St. Lucar; and our present fair, though gentle breeze, will probably carry us to Cadiz before night. We are in the midst of a small fleet bound thence to England, and I avail myself of the opportunity to transmit this letter by one of the ships. I have enjoyed good

health and spirits, and am as comfortable as I can be, when removed from all the objects of my warmest affections.

LETTER II.

REPORT OF THE POLITICAL STATE OF SPAIN, GIVEN BY AN AMERICAN-GENERAL VIRUES-ARRIVAL AT CADIZ-VIEW IN THE BAY-IMPRESSIONS ON LANDING-INTERIOR OF THE HOUSES-GALLEGOS-NARROWNESS OF THE ALAMEYDA - COMPOSITION OF THE ROCKS-TEMPLE OF HER

STREETS

CULES.

CADIZ, SEPT. 1809.

AFTER closing my letter off St. Lucar, we sent it on board one of the vessels bound to England, and the mate who conveyed it was directed to procure every information in his power. When he returned, he communicated to us the report of the Captain (an American) of the state of affairs in Spain, which, though proceeding from an authority extremely questionable, occasioned us at the time a good deal of uneasiness: he related that a battle had been fought between the armies; that the Spaniards fired only once, and then over the heads of the enemy, when they instantly fled in all directions, abandoning their arms, entirely dispersing, and leaving the British alone to contend with the French, who, being consequently defeated, had retired towards Lisbon; that Buonaparte was expected in Cadiz in a few days, where the wealthy inhabitants and all the British were wholly occupied in embarking their property, and preparing for a removal.

You will easily suppose this sad intelligence produced a damp on all our spirits; the worthy General, in particular, felt it in the severest manner, and the calm melancholy marked in his countenance made me sympathise with him sincerely in all his feelings. We were heartily glad when the first boat from the shore reached us to hear the whole account declared a falsehood, originating solely in the fertile imagination of this mischievous American.

Of all the foreigners with whom I have been acquainted, none ever obtained a larger portion of my respect, I may almost say affection, than General Virues: the contemplative and benevolent turn of mind which he discovered during the fourteen days we spent together in the narrow inclosure of the cabin of a ship, impressed these feelings upon me in a manner too powerful to be readily forgotten. He entered early in life into the Army, and now at forty years of age has attained the rank of Major-General. His whole time, however, has not been occupied in the service; he has been employed in the civil department, and was at one period Secretary to Godoy, Prince of Peace, and Prime Minister of Spain. He was nominated about five years ago one of a Board of Commissioners for investigating the evils under which Spain suffered, and for suggesting remedies to cure those evils. Much progress was made by the Commissioners in their investigation, and many useful plans were recommended and measures adopted to put them in execution; but the Cabinet of Madrid was solely directed by the Ambassador of France; and all these well contrived plans were forbidden to be adopted. The General clearly foresaw, even at that early period, every indication of the designs of France upon Spain gradually developing: he saw it with

LETTERS FROM SPAIN.

7

disgust, and retired from the Court to the government of St. Lucar to which he had been appointed.

He had been the protegé and pupil of Don Thomas Morla, who was Governor of Cadiz, and who, whatever may be thought of his courage or his patriotism, has evinced by his publications, that he is a good mathematician and a complete master of the theory of a soldier's profession. When Morla was called to Madrid, after the massacre of Solano and the capture of the French ships, Virues succeeded him in the government of Cadiz ; a situation where I can conceive at that moment there was occasion for intrigue, conciliation, and subserviency to popular feelings, which General Virues in the simplicity and integrity of his character could not descend to practise. He was beloved by all who knew him till the unfortunate events at Madrid rendered Morla suspected of treason to the cause of Spain. Virues, impressed with grateful recollections of early attachment, justified or rather exculpated the conduct of his patron, whom he supposed to be an unwilling instrument in the hands of his superior officer when he agreed to the capitulation of Madrid. Be this as it may, the disgrace of Morla was visited on Virues, and he conceded so much to public feeling, that he resigned the command of Cadiz and went to England on a mission from the government. I shall always esteem that a happy event which threw him in my way and enabled me to treat him with those attentions which are grateful to a foreigner, and of which he appears very sensible.

We got into the harbour about twelve o'clock; but it being the custom here as well as at the ports in the Mediterranean, to have the state of the crew's health of every ship accurately ascer