it was a beautiful starlight night,—the path, however, was difficult to keep, being only perceptible at a distance, like the blind road over a heath in Scotland, and we soon lost our way; inquiring at a village, a man, after offering us hospitality for the night, volunteered to put us into the right road -not for bagshish, but for love; he walked some distance with us, smoking his pipe, and we parted with friendly signs, though in silence-one of those little incidents that lend such a charm to daily life. One exchanges much courtesy of this sort here, talking by signs, a smile winding up each sentiment, like the little fillip in talking with one's fingers. After reaching the river, we had some difficulty in finding the boat, till the cannon and pistols of those on board replying to our e-pistol-ary interrogations from the shore, we soon rejoined

them.

Kenneh, January 4, 1837.

We intended visiting Dendera to-day, but, having a fair wind, have written to Isis, "postponing that pleasure," &c., &c., till our return. We have just been drinking coffee and smoking our pipes

with a jolly old cock of an Arab, his Britannic Majesty's consular agent here, who wanted us to dine with him, and accept his escort to Dendera -a courtesy which we had some difficulty in evading. On rising to depart, he mounted us on two superb donkeys, and sent a dwarf to escort us to the boat.

I have no time for more,

we are ready to start.

We are both well-God bless my dear mother!

LETTER VI.

Thebes. Temples-Sculptures-Tombs-Fulfilment of the Prophecies.

Esneh-Edfou-Essouan-Ascent of the Cataracts-Nubia-Wellee Kiashef-Wady Halfa-Descent of the Cataracts-Wreck, and detention at Essouan.

Temples of Herment, Dendera, Ombos-Tombs of Benihassan-Memphis-Pyramids of Saccara and Dashour

-Cairo.

February 3, 1837. Returning down the Nile.

FAR have we wandered, and much have we seen, dearest mother, during the last month and a half. We arrived at Thebes, glorious Thebes! the day after I despatched my letter from Kenneh, and fired our cannon in triumph; we always do so on reaching any place which forms an epoch in our voyage; it astonishes the natives. We saluted a

Turkish Kiashef, or governor, the other evening, as he left our boat, after dining and chatting with us for three hours; the poor man tottered with astonishment, he took it in very good part, however-more of him anon.

Colonel Vyse, whose boat was moored alongside of ours, paid us a visit the evening we arrived at Thebes. He advised our taking advantage of the favourable wind, and proceeding direct to Nubia before it changed. It was impossible absolutely to turn our backs on Thebes without one glance at her, yet the advice was not to be rejected in toto, and we therefore took a hurried look only at the ruins, merely to familiarise ourselves with their plan on our return we examined them minutely. But I will say now all that I think will interest you on the subject.

For a glance at the principal objects, two days suffice; the first we devoted to the western or Libyan suburb-for the Nile divides the city of Ammon into two portions, of which the eastern is the most considerable. Mounting, therefore, a couple of Arab steeds, we started for the ruins,

Ali Massaoud, the guardiano, leading the way, with a long spear on his shoulder.

We soon came in sight of

"Memnon's statue, which at sunrise played,"

and his companion, and in about half an hour dismounted at Gournou, to visit the temple of Ammon, the Theban Jupiter, begun by Osirei, and finished, with the palace contiguous to it, by his illustrious son, Rameses the Second. It is small comparatively, but very interesting,—the columns of the portico, lotus-stalks bound together, being evidently the prototype of the Doric. The eastern court was the hall of assembly of ancient Thebes. A royal palace was attached to most of the great temples: the priests were equally well lodged in the lateral apartments.

Do you remember the discovery struck out some years ago by Dr. Young, and perfected by Champollion, of a hieroglyphical alphabet, by which they were enabled to read the names of all the kings who have recorded themselves on the ancient monuments of Egypt? It is to this discovery that we now now owe the exact knowledge