Swedish Politics. I 259 1807. Unpopula rity of the King of Sweden. borne in mind that Copenhagen capitulated to the Eng- CHAP. XI. lish on the 7th, and that before very long (March, 1809) the King of Sweden was driven from the throne. Partly by my own observation at the dinner-party, and partly by the information given me by Frau von Helwig, I became fully aware of the unpopularity of the King. was struck by the coldness with which every remark I made in his praise was received; but I was in some measure prepared for this by what I had heard from the minister at Altona. On my reading to him Wordsworth's sonnet, his only comment was that the poet had happily and truly described the King as "above all consequences ;" and on my eulogizing the King to Herr von Engerström for his heroic refusal to negotiate with Buonaparte, the reply was, "Personne ne doute que le roi soit un homme d'honneur." Among the company were two military men of great personal dignity, and having the most glorious. titles imaginable. One was a knight of the "Northern Star;" the other a knight of the "Great Bear," the constellation. I had been introduced as a German, and was talking with these Chevaliers when Frau von Helwig joined us, and said something that betrayed my being an Englishman. Immediately one of them turned away. The cause was so obvious that my friend was a little piqued, and remonstrated with him. He made an awkward apology, and unsuccessfully denied her imputation. This anti-English feeling was so general in Sweden at this time that I was advised to travel as a German through the country, and in fact did so. AntiEnglish feeling. 260 CHAP. XI. - 1807. Arndt. Journey in Frau von Helwig. On the 18th I dined with Frau von Helwig. She had invited to meet me a man whom I was happy to see, and whose name will survive among the memorable names of the last age. I refer to the patriotic Arndt. He had fled from the proscription of Buonaparte. His life was threatened, for he was accused, whether with truth I do not know, of being the author of the book for the publication of which Salm had been shot. My falling in with him now caused me to read his works, and occasioned my translating entire his prophecy in the year 1805 of the insurrection of the Spaniards, which actually took place within less than a year of our rencontre in Sweden. This I inserted in a review* of Wordsworth's pamphlet on the convention of Cintra. I was delighted by this lively little man, very spirited and luminous in his conversation, and with none of those mystifying abstractions of which his writings are full. He spoke with great admiration of our "Percy's Reliques." On the 21st I set out on my journey to Gottenburg, having bought a conveyance, with whip and other accompaniments, which altogether cost me about £4 The peasants are obliged to supply horses, and I paid 9d. per horse for each stage of about seven miles. My driver was sometimes a man or boy, but sometimes also a woman or girl. I am not accustomed to make economical statements, but it is worth mentioning that, including the loss on the resale of my carriage, the whole expense of my journey, over 350 miles, during seven days, was less than £6! I had been fur * In Cumberland's "London Review." Gottenburg. 1807. 261 Civility and honesty of the Swedish people. nished with a card, not bigger than my hand, and CHAP. XI. yet containing all the Swedish words I should want. With this I managed to pass through the country, without meeting with any incivility or inconvenience; and, after what I have said as to expense, I need not add, without being imposed upon. How many Swedes will say the same of a journey in England? The only occasion on which I thought I had reason to complain, was when a peasant provided for my driver a child who could not hold the reins. With the name of Sweden I had associated no other idea than that of barren rocks; but during the first four days of my journey, in which I left behind me 250 miles, there was an uninterrupted succession of beautiful forest scenery. The roads were admirable, needing no repair, for the substance was granite. There was no turnpike from beginning to end. The scenery was diversified by a number of lakes, every now and then a small neat town, or a pretty village, and a very few country houses. The fir, or pine, and beech were almost the only trees. I reached Gottenburg on the 27th. The environs of Gottenburg. the town consist of masses of rock with very scanty interstices of meagre vegetation,-a scene of dreary barrenness; yet commerce has enriched this spot, and the Gottenburg merchants, as I witnessed, partake of the luxuries which wealth can transport anywhere. On the 30th I commenced my voyage homewards; age of steam was not come, but after a comfortable passage of eight days, I sighted the coast of my native country. We landed at Harwich on the afternoon of the 7th of October. the Thank God I once more touch English land. Tonight I mean to sleep at Witham. be in town. And I suppose before To-morrow I shall long shall come to Bury. I shall in the meanwhile expect your letter of congratulation. Kind love to father, sister, little Tom, and everybody. Foreign Editor of the Times. 263 CHAP. XII. 1807. CHAPTER XII. VERY soon after my return from Holstein, Mr. Walter proposed that I should remain in the service of the Times as a sort of foreign editor; that is, I was to translate from the foreign papers, and write on foreign politics. This engagement began at the close of the year; and I entered on my duties in high spirits. I could not easily find in my life a six months in which I was more happy in every respect. I began to feel that I had something to do, and could do it. In looking back on my work, I see nothing to be proud of in it; but it connected me with public life, and that at least was agreeable. And though I did not form a portion of the literary society of London, I was brought into its presence. It was my practice to go to Printing House Square at five, and to remain there as long as there was anything to be done. After a time I had the name of editor, and as such opened all letters. It was my office to cut out odd articles and paragraphs from other papers, decide on the admission of correspondence, &c.; but there was always a higher power behind. While I was in my room, Mr. Walter was in his, and there the great leader, the article that was talked about, was written. Nor did I ever write an article on party politics during my continuance in that post. I may, however, add, that in H. C. R. as writer for the Times. Connection with the Times. |