waters. Then we traversed Glen Finnan, full of grand. specimens of the original Scotch fir,- thro' the noblest scenery I ever saw,' writes my friend: the old pine-trees colossal in size, and in their forms the most picturesque things in the world.' Loch Sheill next came to view, also like a mirror. It seemed the crowning incident of beauty where everything was surpassingly lovely. All so bright, and still, and exquisite around it! It was like a dream of fairy land, only one had never dreamed of anything half so fair: 'the combination of beauty and grandeur,' writes Tytler, ‘surpasses anything I have ever seen.' Before us was the pillar which marks the spot where Prince Charles Edward, (for in society, there were still found elderly people who looked grave and displeased when I called him the Pretender,') planted his standard on landing in 1745, and where he held his first council of war. How spirit-stirring was it to stand on that spot, at the self-same time of year, and to have the mountain-passes pointed out down which some of the clans came pouring, while gleaming arms and wild pibrochs gave notice of their approach! The beauty of the scene, looking down the jutting headlands of that lake, was simply unutterable. But on returning at the end of an hour, the effect was entirely changed. A light breeze had sprung up, and hardly a single tint remained the same.-Our route lay through Glen Fillan and round the beautiful Loch Rainachan, the scenery still exquisite. I have never seen anything finer anywhere,' writes my friend, who abandoning his fishingrod more than once came to draw by my side. At sunset we saw the sea, and the Scaur of Eig as it is called, and at last reached Arisaig, which is the extreme point of the mainland. The next day we went on to Skye, and established ourselves at Broadford.

Here, our plan was to visit Corriusk and Glen Sliga

chan; which, from the accounts we obtained, must certainly be by far the most remarkable scenery in Scotland; and thence, next day to go on to Portree, where the sheriff was to have held his court. But illness prevented him from executing his intention, and the weather foiled us. It rained incessantly. We ordered ponies and guides for the following morning, in hopes of better luck: but the rain was incessant, and the guides declined undertaking the expedition. If I remember right, a part of the feat of visiting Corriusk was said to consist in creeping along a narrow pathway on the side of a rock which affords but a precarious foot-hold. It was a great disappointment; but our obvious alternative was to expend our enthusiasm on some object a little nearer home. Tytler thus writes in his pocket-diary," Johnny amused himself in an attempt to excavate a Norwegian barrow, hiring Skye labourers, and encouraging them with extraordinary attempts to speak Gaelic, calling them calves of his heart,' and giving them plenty of whisky. But the rain fell in torrents, and the rogues struck work, much to Johnny's distress; and mine too, for I would have given a great deal to have seen his success.' It was indeed an extraordinary cairn, and it stood in a locality of extraordinary interest too. Nothing can be imagined more picturesque than the scene presented by the motley group which assembled in the foreground; while the sea and the grey mountains spread beyond; and behind us, wreathed about with ribbons of mist, up soared a conical hill, on the summit of which, Haco, King of Norway, is said to have buried his old nurse, in order that her grave at least might be fanned by the winds which blew from her native land.-As for the cairn, I discovered nothing in the part which I excavated; though a singular subterranean chamber at one extremity, which had been revealed by accident, convinced me that there was something

to discover; and that if I could have dug a little longer, I should have discovered it.*

We left Skye on Saturday, 7th September. The Swift, revenue cutter, wafted us and a most agreeable party of ladies to Balmacarra in Ross-shire, where Mrs. Lillingston received us with infinite kindness; and we reached Loch Carron at night, having traversed an enchanting country. We stopped at Jeantown, a long straggling village full of children, most picturesquely situated; and on the next day, Sunday, travelled along the banks of the lake, amid splendid old hills, until we reached Craig Inn. Here the Sheriff read the Service to us; and thence we repaired by appointment to the shooting quarters of a gentleman whose acquaintance we had made at breakfast,(Mr. William Steuart of Glenormiston, Peebles) who with his nephew, Mr. Finlay, gave us a hearty welcome to Loch Rosque. It would be impossible indeed to convey the least idea of the original racy humour, and irresistible drollery of our host. At the end of twenty years I remember the effect of his stories, which convulsed us all four with laughter till we fairly cried. After dispatching his grouse, we sat listening to his endless reminiscences for about five hours,-weary only of laughing. I have sometimes thought that it would be interesting to classify wits and humourists: but how many individuals would form a class apart! Quite sui generis, certainly, was our new acquaintance. I see him now, flushed and excited with the fun of the coming story. It is about some famous character, whose voice and manner he can reproduce exactly. He has said enough to relax the muscles of every face, and he hastens to deepen the impression by quick, telling strokes, until he has established the beginning of a contagious laugh. Then he starts up from his seat, raises his voice, and bend

An account of this Cairn appeared in the Gentleman's Magazine for January, 1841.

ing over the table, accompanies all that follows with gestures which enforce what he says, and supply what he omits. You rock in your seat with merriment, but he gives you no quarter. Changing his voice, he reveals, in broader and broader Scotch, some ulterior consequence of the story, so preposterous and unexpected, that fresh shouts of laughter are elicited from the exhausted party. At last he falls back himself, faint at the excess of his own fun, and joins powerfully in the general chorus. . . . . On your return home, you do your best to reproduce the story: but on your lips it seems to have a marvellous small amount of mirth in it. The spirit has surely evaporated. A faint smile is all that follows.-From Loch Rosque we made the best of our way to the Auchanault Inn; and next evening returned home, having passed many lovely lakes, and paid a pleasant visit at Brahan Castle,— the seat of the Seaforths.

With my friend's brother-in-law and sister at Moniack, we spent a delightful week; making short excursions into the neighbourhood, and visiting the Lovats at Beaufort Castle, and the Princes,' as two gentlemen named Stewart, residing in the romantic Isle of Aigais, and supposed descendants of the Pretender, styled themselves. Here, the royal arms encountered us over the doorway; and within, were several indications of Royalty, together with not a few indifferent historical pictures. One portentous piece which represented the landing of the Pretender, Tytler insisted was a representation of Noah coming out of the Ark. The gentlemen were inoffensive, and seemed good-natured and amiable. The resemblance of the elder brother to the portrait of Charles I. was certainly extraordinary.-But I was now reluctantly obliged to bid farewell to the Highlands, and return south. I have therefore no excuse for continuing my story any further.

1

CHAPTER XIII.

(1839-1842.)

Tytler proceeds with his History-The State Paper Office-His Daughter's account of him among his children-Letters to them and to myself-Second edition of the History-Tytler's piety and playfulness.

TYTLER lingered behind in the Highlands for another month. On the 27th September, he writes in his pocketbook,-" Walked over the hill by Glach Ossian to Antfield: taking leave of dear Jeanie, and sweet Moniack. It was a lovely day, and the view from the hill above Dochfour, en chanting, the whole country bathed in a rich golden air tint, and Loch Ness stretching out in a sheet of silver. I was happy, and very grateful to GOD for my eyes. Benedicite omnia opera, came into my mind." A yet earlier entry may be perused with interest :-"20th Sept. Drove into Inverness with Sir J. Mc Neill and Mr. Wedderburn and the ladies, and visited Culloden Moor. Mr. Wedderburn's grandfather and father were both in the battle on Prince Charles' side, in Ogilvy's regiment. The grandfather (Sir John Wedderburn of Blackness) was tried and executed on Kennington Common. The father, then a mere youth of 16, escaped from the field and after lurking about, got clear off. The madness of the Prince's troops in fighting, is most extraordinary. There was strong ground too, in the neighbourhood."

Soon after my return home, Mr. Tytler addressed me as follows:

"Moniack, 26th Sept. 1839. "My dear Johnny.-I have not yet quite recovered your leaving me, but I comfort myself with the idea that we shall soon, please GOD, meet again; and in the meantime, I con