The distance is 330 English miles, 80 of which, however, are performed by steam on the lakes Miösen and Losna. He lauds the civility and honesty of both postmasters and peasants. The scenery throughout is nowhere characterized by Alpine sublimity, though certain parts are almost grand. The Miösen lake forms the receptacle of the noble river Lougen, which has already run a course of 130 miles before it finds its haven of repose at Lillehammer. This lake is deficient in lofty background, and its banks are monotonous. "We miss those lateral vistas through which the eye may wander and the fancy speculate, until the receding ranges of mountains are confounded with the clouds." Further on we pass through the ravine of Kringelen, interesting to our countrymen as the fatal spot where Colonel Sinclair, who commanded a body of troops raised in Scotland in 1612, for service under Gustavus Adolphus, was cut off with almost all his men. Along this line, as indeed everywhere else in Norway, a marked peculiarity consists of the absence of villages, which, except it may be sparingly along the western coast, are scarcely known. The view of the Dovre-field is dreary enough even in summer, and when winter "rages loud and long," must be wild indeed. It consists of a table-land of an average height of rather more than 3000 feet above the sea, with loftier mountains rising from it, some of them, as Snee-hätten, attaining to an elevation of 7000 feet or more. But the greater portion is of much lower height, and the summits being rounded, and the bases of great extent, the picturesque effect is inferior to that of most mountain chains of the same magnitude. The drive from Fogstuen (a solitary farm-house) across the table-land, is nearly level, and resembles the moorland scenery of some of our own wild highland wastes. The hollows are filled up by desolate tarns or dreary swamps, while the drier spots bear a stunted brushwood. The last station on the ascent of the Dovre-field is Jerkind, a substantial dwelling, possessed by people of some wealth, and standing at a height 3100 feet above the sea. For the occupation of travellers, who often pass this way, a separate building has been erected on the opposite side of the road, where, however, our philosopher found the management not so good as he had anticipated from previous report.

Snee-hätten rises from an already lofty base, about 14 English miles from Jerkind. The country is nearly trackless, and the traveller, or rather his sagacious pony, (we think again of Shetland, and its sure-footed shelties,) must "pursue the Arimaspian," through swamps and heather, amongst holes and shingle, dangerous for man or beast; he must ford rapid streams, nearly ice-cold; and, worst of all, must pass over many large patches of treacherous snow, in which his pony will often flounder up to

Summit of Suee-hätten.

205

the saddle. Although it requires about four hours' toilsome scramble to reach the base, the ascent of this field is so gradual, that an elevation of not more than 1900 feet is gained in that time, after a ride of not less than 14 miles. The ascent of the mountain itself is both disagreeable and dangerous, the foot sinking among interstices at every step, "threatening dislocation or broken bones." There is firmer footing near the summit, but the wind is very cold. The form of the mountain, as observed from the top, is that of a ridge running nearly east and west, precipitously broken towards the south, and sloping steeply in other directions.

"The chasm on the south side has been compared to a crater— the mountain ridge bending partly round it like the cliffs of Monta Somma, with which in steepness it may compare; whilst the elevation is much greater. It has been stated that a lake exists in the hollow, but at this time it was no doubt frozen, and concealed by beds of snow. The ridge itself is wildly serrated, and like the entire mountain is composed of a rather friable mica slate. The part on which we stood was a cone of pure snow, cleft vertically on the side of the precipice."-P. 21. "On our return to Jerkind, we supped on rein-deer soup, and found it excellent."-P. 26.

The chiefest discomfort connected with Norwegian travel, arises from the melting of the snow at certain seasons. Not enough of it remains for sledges-too much for carrioles. The roads become snow-pits, not broad enough for carriage-wheels, and retaining pools of ice-cold water, In places where the snow is still deep, it has become incapable of bearing the weight of a horse, and the animal sinks to the girths or more, while the traveller, left to his own resources, endeavours to advance on foot, and plunges first one leg and then another into the chill abyss, and is only relieved by finding himself sitting astride upon a more compacted piece of snow, his extremities dangling in a too-refreshing stream of running water. The end of April and beginning of May are therefore the worst times to travel in Norway.

The passes of the Vaarstige, in the Dovre-field, present some noble scenery, scarcely Alpine, but comparable to the finest parts of the Scottish Highlands. The summit-level is soon after gained, and the onward journey is by descent to Drivstuen, a small hamlet basking on a sunny spot among productive meadows, overhung on both sides by precipitous mountains, and presenting fine views of the ravine and lower valley of the Driva, adorned by the sweet tracery of birch woods, and their silvery stems. Here a large collection of country people had assembled for some object of local interest.

"We had consequently a good opportunity of observing the characteristics of the male inhabitants of this district of Norway. The opinion of a passing traveller ignorant of the language, is, perhaps, hardly worth stating; but having some faith in physiognomy, I will venture to record my impression at the time, that I had never in any country seen so fine a peasantry, in point both of general appearance and of expression, as on this journey, and more particularly on the north descent of the Dovre. The younger men are tall and muscular, and their deportment unites manliness with gentleness in a remarkable degree. As the hair is worn long at all ages, the appearance of the aged men is venerable, and occasionally highly striking. The costume is extremely becoming, being of pale brown home-manufactured woollen cloth slightly embroidered in green, with a belt, curiously jointed with leather and brass, from which hangs a knife (also made in the rural districts) with a carved handle, which is used in eating. A hanging red woollen cap completes the dress. Some travellers declaim against the slowness and stupidity of the Norwegians. Slow they may be as regards the deliberateness of their actions, but, so far as the experience of this journey extends, I should describe them as in general more than commonly intelligent and courteous.”—P. 32.

In addition to this favourable testimony, and preceding it, we need scarcely refer to the well-known opinions of Mr. Laing.

Spruce and pine trees reappear in the valley of the Oerkel, the higher and preceding forest vegetation being birch. Those more sombre woods clothe the precipitous banks of a noble river, but a mountainous ridge must be crossed to the Guul, en route to Trondhiem. This town, though wide, regular, and well kept, is almost entirely built of wood. It is interesting as the most northern city of civilisation, latitude 63° 26'. Although the oak has ceased to grow, and few fruits come to perfection, it is a cheerful and pleasant place, and the culture of flowers, so strong an affection with Norwegians, is carried on with great success. Fine natural terraces, or "raised beaches," may be here examined, and have been well described by Mr. Robert Chambers, and other recent writers. No mountains of great elevation are visible from the shore, and the character of the scene again resembles that of our beloved Scottish Highlands, where the "great sea-waters" wind their restless way through long narrow inlets amid the silence of the lonely hills.

Northwards of this station Norway soon becomes little else than a mountainous shore, intersected by deep fiords, and guarded by great insular masses detached from the main-land. As roads almost immediately cease, it may easily be conceived how various and invaluable are now the uses of constant steam navigation for more than 700 miles northwards to Hammerfest.

"Taking advantage of this arrangement, I left Trondhiem with the companions of my journey from Christiania, on board the steamer

Salmon-fishing slighted.

207

'Prinds Gustav,' bound for Hammerfest. Having been for a fortnight almost continually on board this well-appointed and well-officered vessel, I cannot but record my obligations to Captain Lous of the Norwegian navy, who commanded it, who exerted no common assiduity and no common talents, to render the voyage agreeable and instructive, to all his passengers, and for his courtesy to myself I retain feelings of the liveliest gratitude."-P. 42.

The English friends or fellow-travellers with whom our Professor had journeyed hitherto, were on their way "to the far north for salmon-fishing," and they parted only under the 70th degree. We fear from the very casual and inadequate reference made here and there throughout his volume to this great subject, that Professor Forbes is not sufficiently impressed with the dignity and importance, either of angling in general, or of salmon-fishing in particular. Thus, while voyaging along a parti cular portion of the shore, he merely notes, that "the Namsen river, well known to English salmon-fishers, falls into the Folden-fiord."-P. 44. And further onwards, in describing Reipas on the river Alten, as a very nest of mosquitoes, he observes :

"But for my veil I should have passed a night of torment, and even with it I had great difficulty in falling asleep, from the loudness of their hum, the sharpness of their bite even through the veil, and the broad daylight, which, as usual, streamed in at all the windows. It appeared to me difficult to imagine that custom could reconcile any one to such a continuous infliction. Yet summer is a period so ardently desired by all, whether natives or strangers, who dwell in these high latitudes, that the plague of flies is perhaps considered an insignificant deduction from their gratification. More paradoxical still it does appear to every one but an angler, that the charms of sport should be sufficient to induce English gentlemen every year to spend their days and nights an unprotected prey to these savage insects; and, most unexpected of all, to find a delicate English lady surrendering herself to her husband's passion for fishing so completely, as to become a willing prisoner in this terrible locality."-P. 95.

What a charming creature she must have been! We wish we knew her.

Hestmando, or the Horseman's island, is interesting as commencing the entrance into the arctic circle. The existence of a peculiarly fresh and verdant vegetation is now perceptible, the result of rapid development by the unceasing presence of the sun. Though barren of aspect from a distance, the grass on Hestmando is knee deep. From the Bay of Rödö to the right, and onwards, the coast now rises with more than its accustomed majesty, and over the snowy summits of Fondalen, seen through the clearest air, the rich glow of an arctic summer's midnight prevailed in all its splendour, and detained the passengers on

deck, entranced by admiration of so solemn and glorious a scene. We are now in a region which, during the summer season, knows not night, at least if night means darkness,—

"A sleepless summer of long light,

The snow-clad offspring of the sun."

Of course, the great difficulty is to discover when to go to bed, especially in fine weather, while gliding so serenely over the smoothest water, among long serried ranges of fantastic islands, or into the still haven of the interior fiords, rock-bound, or bordered by the sombre majesty of immemorial woods.

"We lingered on deck," says our philosopher, "long after midnight had passed, and thus gained a sight of the magnificent headland of Kunnen, a mountain with an almost precipitous face towards the ocean, whilst its mass is connected with the mainland only by a strip of flat alluvium, giving to it the appearance of an island. During the whole night there was shed from the northern sky a warm sunset tint over the scenery -sea, rock, and verdure, (for much beautiful verdure there is even here,) and snow, and glacier,whose continuing effect was indescribably harmonious and peaceful. Thus, in one day's voyage, beginning with Torghattan, and ending with Kunnen, we had enjoyed, under the most favourable circumstances of calm sea and cheerful weather, and a glowing midnight, an amount of majestic scenery, with which, in its kind, perhaps no European coast can compare."-P. 53.

Although potatoes and barley are still successfully cultivated along these northern shores, and the flocks rejoice in green pastures, it is believed that less agricultural exertion is made than might be, especially in respect to winter provender, such as turnips, which must surely thrive well in Scandinavia, else the name of "Swedes" must be a misnomer. The venerable priest of Bodo, who had formerly resided as far north as Carlző, in latitude 70°, found that turnips throve there admirably. Yet several degrees farther south the horses and cattle are fed in winter, partly on the dried leaves of the birch-tree, but chiefly on sea-weed, and the heads of boiled fish! The old clergyman admitted that much might be done in ameliorating the state of stock, but criticism was disarmed by his returning to the primary difficulty,-"here we have nine months of winter, and three weeks of summer!"

The coast scenery between Folden-fiord and the great western inlet, bounded sea-wards by the Lofodden Islands, is varied and magnificent, and is well described by Professor Forbes, in his own peculiar and observant way.

"As the steamer pursued its rapid course through a tranquil sea, and under the very rocks, new forms of mountains rose in succession,