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ARTICLE 3.- Account of a Voyage of Discovery to the West Coast of

Corea, and the Great Loo-chon Island, with an Appendix containing
Charts, and Various Hydrographical and Scientific Notices; ly Caplain
Basil Hall, Royal Navy, F R. S. and a Vocal'ulary of the Loo-choo
Language, by H. J. CLIFFORD, Esq. Lieutenant of the Royal Navy.

OST of our readers are pro- perfectly satisfied that the truth has issue of the late Embassy to China. aggeration, and with that engaging So far as that country is concerned, simplicity of style, which best bethe Embassy has added very little comes the truth. to our information ; but the ac- These remarks are particularly counts of the Loo Choo islands, applicable to Captain Hall's work; published by Mr. M‘Leod and and we do not ihink we can pas Captain Hall, will in some measure him and his officers and crew higher atone for our disappointinent. They praise, than by saying, that by their are both delightful books; giving a whole intercourse with and conmost pleasing description of a most duct towards the inhabitants of Loo interesting people. In reading their Choo, they must have impressed on account of Loo Choo, we have none their feelings and their memory, of those misgivings that crossed the the most bonourable and pleasing thoughts when reading Keat's ac. ideas of the British nation, count of the Pelew islands; we are


In the mean time Mr. Clifford, They made no objection to his going who had been unwell, and felt un- into the village, where he saw in equal to the labour of climbing the one inclosure a complete farm-yard. hill, proceeded in one of the boats The principal house was closed, but towards a large village on the east- to the offices there was free access. ern side of the lake. He was met In the stable were two handsome by a number of the inhabitants, bay ponies; there was also a well whose dress and appearance were

stocked pigsty, and a poultryinferior to what we had been ac- house. In another quarter stood a customed to see at Napakiang; on mill for busking corn, consisting of his asking them in Loo-choo for a grooved solid cylinder of wood, some water, they gave it cheerfully; fitting neatly into a hollow cylinder, but they shewed little curiosity, and the sides of which were also the party which followed wherever grooved : near this lay a band fourhe went, seemed to have no other mill and several baskets of cotion. object than to prevent disturbance. In another part of the court was a 1817





It was

granary erected on posts about six see the Chief of the village ; but feet above the ground, having billets either there was no such person, or of fire-wood piled below it. At he was out of the way : the inbaanother place, under a tree in the bitants pointed out a man on horsevillage, he saw a blacksmith's anvil back as a Chief, who passed on to fixed in a block; the forge was of another village ; this was probably masonry, having an air hole, but the same man who offered his horse the bellows was wanting,

to Mr. Hall, the officer of the boat. « In the centre of the village Mr. Clifford went to the top of the stood a building like a temple, sur- range behind the village, and afterrounded by a stone wall.

wards into the valley on the other filled with elegant vases of different side, which he found highly cultishapes and sizes, closed up and vated. ranged in rows on the floor; the - From the heights we saw that verandah encircling the building the large space which was at first was also covered with vases. Ac- considered a lake, communicates cording to the account of the na- with the sea to the north-eastward, tives, the remains of the dead are as well as by the narrow passage deposited in these jars. Round the through which we bad come, but building bamboo poles were placed there was not time to allow of its so as to lean against the thatched being fully examined. As we reroof, having notches cut in them, turned by the narrow straits, we to which bundles of flowers were called at some of the small villages hung, some fresh, others decayed, on the eastern side. At one of apparently funereal offerings; but these, the people of the village, their exact import Mr. Clifford was headed by a man who appeared to not able to learn. The elegant be superior to the rest, came toshape of the vases, and the tasteful wards the boat, and stopped for way in which they were arranged, some minutes at the distance of with the flowers hanging all round, fifty yards; after which, appearing gave to this cemetery an air of to have gained confidence, they cheerfulness, which we are in the caine on, with the old man in front, habit of thinking unsuitable to a carrying a green bough in his band. depository of the dead.

He would not come close, however, “ This village, which is at the till invited by Mr. Clifford in Loohead of a bay, is sheltered from the choo to look at the boat; be then north wind by a row of trees be- advanced and presented bis bough, tween it and the beach ; behind it in return for wbich we broke a is sheltered by a range of hills. A branch from a tree, and gave it to broad road runs between it and the him with the same formality he had water; trees are planted among used towards us. Soon after this the houses, so as nearly to conceal exchange was made, they left us, them. In the middle of the village and went to examine the boat-o near the cemetery, in an open fishermen always an object of great square, there is a cluster of


interest. ries like the one described above; “On our entering the village we the walls are made of wattled rattan, were met by a inan who appeared and overhang the lower part. to be the principal person of the

"Mr. Clifford tried in vain to place; he was very polite, sbewed

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us through the village, and took us here and there are placed wooden
over his garden, where he bad benches, and at some places stone
some sugar-canes growing ; tbis we seats are fixed near the trees : this
admired very much, upon which he space, which is about a quarter of a
ordered one of the finest of the mile long, is probably used as a
canes to be taken up by the roots public walk.
and presented to us; we immedi- “ A range of hills of a semicir.
ately gave him a few buttons off cular form embraces the village,
our jackets, with which he was and limits its extent: at most
quite pleased. On its beginning to places it is steep, but at the point
rain while we were in the garden, where the north end joins the har.
he invited us into his house, which, bour, there is an overhanging cliff
from the walls being of wattled about eighty feet high, the upper
cane, looked like a large basket. part of which extends considerably
Rude pictures and carved wood- beyond the base; at eight or ten
work figures were hanging on the yards from the ground on this in-
walls, together with some inscrip- clined face, a long horizontal gallery
tions in Chinese characters.

has been hewn out of the solid
On returning to the lower bar- rock: it communicates with a num-
bour of all, we went to the large ber of small square excavations still
village before spoken of, which is deeper in the rock, for the reception
by far the most finished of any that of the vases containing the bones of
we have seen on this island. The the dead.
streets are regular and clean swept ; " The trees and creepers on the
each house has a neat cane wall, as edge of the precipice hung down so
well as a screen before the door ; as to meet the tops of those which
plantain and other trees are grow. grew below, and thus a screen was
ing so thickly in the inside of the formed which threw the gallery
fence, that they completely shade into deep shade : every thing here
the house. Near the beach were being perfectly still, the scene was
several large houses, in which a very solemn and imposing. It took
number of people

seated us somewhat by surprise, for nothing writing : on going up to them they in its external appearance indicated gave us tea and cakes, and after the purpose to which the place was wards allowed us to go over the appropriated: happening to discover village without restraint; they were an opening amongst the trees and curious to know whether the brig brushwood, and resolving to see was coming into the harbour or not, what it led to, we entered by a and if so, bow many days we meant narrow path winding through the tu stay; they expressed neither grove. The liveliness of the scenery pleasure nor regret when we said without, and the various amusethat we were not coming in. In ments of the day, had put us all front of the village, and parallel into high spirits, but the unexpected with the beach, there is a splendid and sacred gloom of the scene in avenue thirty feet wide, formed by which we suddenly found ourselves two rows of large trees, whose bad an instantaneous effect in rebranches join overhead, and effec- pressing the mirth of the whole tually screen the walk from the sun ; party."




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Interview with THE PRINCB Of Loo-Choo.




A deputation of the chiefs went bad been confined to the cabin ever

board the Alceste early this since his accident, desired me to morning to say, that the Prince of receive the Prince. No arrangethe island, who was the next person ment having been made with us in rank to the King, and heir to respecting the ceremony of recep. the throne, meant to come on board tion, I merely took off my hat and the frigate this afternoon, as well bowed : but all the chiefs fell on for the purpose of paying a visit of their knees the instant he came on ceremony, as of enquiring into the the quarter-deck. I took his hand state of Captain Maxwell's health from one of the chiefs who bad after the accident.

assisted him up the accommodation “ At noon the four senior chiefs, ladder, and led him to the cabin. dressed in their state robes and When seated beside Captain hatchee-matchees,

to Maxwell, the Prince made several nounce the Prince's approach, and anxious enquiries about his finger, in about half an hour afterwards he expressing much regret that so diswas brought in a closed sedan-chair agreeable an accident should bave to the boat, through a concourse of occurred at Loo-choo. He then people, to whom he seemed as called to his pipe-bearer, and having much a show as to us. The state prepared a pipe, presented it 10 boat was a large flat bottomed Captain Maxwell, who returned barge, covered with an awning of bim this compliment, by giving him dark blue, with white stars on it, one of his own. The usual questhe whole having much the appear- tions as to our ages and families, ance of a hearse. It was preceded and various complimentary speeches, by two boats bearing flags with an having passed, he said he had heard inscription upon them, having in much of the wonders of the ship, the bow an officer of justice carry and should like to see them himing a lackered bamboo, and in the self: he rose upon this and went stern a man beating a gong. A vast to the globes, which he examined number of boats were in attendance, with great care. He begged to be some bearing presents, and others shewn Ingeree, Loo-choo, Quanfollowing out of mere curiosity. toong (China); Niphon (Japan); One of the Chiefs came on board Manilla, and Pekin. The chiefs with the Prince's card, which was would not sit down in his presence, of red paper forty-eight inches long, and never spoke to him without and eleven wide, and shortly after- kneeling. On his expressing a wish wards the Prince's barge put off to look at the different parts of the from the shore ; upon which the ship, he was conducted all round rigging of both ships was manned, the decks. He observed every thing and a salute of seven guns fired; with attention, but without betray. when he came on board he was re- ing any great degree of curiosity : ceived with a guard, and under a he had heard of the boatswain's like salute. Captain Maxwell, who wife, and asked to see her; the



lady, in her best dress, was pre. party in the after-cabin, business sented to him ; he stood for about was entered upon by Captain Maxhalf a minute looking at her with a well's returning thanks, in the name sort of pleased surprise, and then, of the English government, for the as if suddenly recollecting that this liberal way in which we had been was somewhat rude, be drew his supplied with every kind of refreshfan from his breast, and with an air ment, and for the other assistance of the utmost politeness, held it to- which had been given to us. The wards her, andupon Mrs. Loy curtsy- Prince replied, that the King of ing in acknowledgment, he sent it Loo-choo was anxious to do every to her by Mádera. He asked to see thing in his power for the King of the fire-engine worked, and ap- England's ships. Upon this Cappeared much gratified by seeing the tain Maxwell observed, that he was water thrown to so great a height. very desirous of seeing his majesty, He had heard of the African negro, for the purpose of expressing in and beeged that he might be sent person his gratitude for the kind. for. When the black man ness we had received in this country. brought before him he looked ex- The Prince answered, that it was ceedingly surprised, and probably contrary to the laws and customs of was in doubt whether the colour Loo-choo, for any foreigner to see was natural, as one of his people the king, unless sent by his own was sent to rub his face, as if to sovereign, and charged with comdiscover whether it was painted or plimentary presents. Coming from not. The natives, who had flocked such high authority, this assurance on board in crowds, fell on their was conclusive, and as nothing knees whenever the Prince passed. further could now be said on the

On returning to the cabin, the subject, the hope of opening a comPrince was invited to a collation munication with this court, which prepared for him in the foremost had been so anxiously desired, cabin : for a long time he refused seemed now destroyed. The prince, to sit down, nor could we con- however, unexpectedly resumed the jecture what bis objection was; at subject, by saying ihat a letter length, however, he complied, while would be written to the king of the chiefs, who are neither allowed England, if Captain Maxwell would to sit down nor eat in his presence,

undertake to deliver it; his answer retired to the after-cabin. He tasted was, that nothing could give hiin every thing which was offered him, more satisfaction than being made but seemed afraid of the wines, the bearer of such a communication : having probably heard of the pro- that he had earnestly desired the ceedings on the evening of the 19th. honour of paying his respects to his In about half an hour he rose and majesty, but from the momeni that went to the after-cabin; the chiefs he had heard that it was contrary to and the people of his suite, to the the customs of the country, he had number of fifteen, then sat down ceased to think of it. As soon as it at the table he had left, and made was interpreted that Captain Max. ample amends for the temperance well was willing to carry the letter and moderation of his royal high- alluded to, and that he no longer ness,

urged his desire to see the king, the As soon as they rejoined the Prince rose and pressed Captain



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