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The earliest mention of this place occurs in the reign of Edward I., at which time it consisted only of a few cottages, or shielings, inhabited by fishermen. An attempt was made, about this period, by the prior and monks of Tynemouth, to extend the village, and give it a commercial character; for which purpose they erected houses, founded a harbour, and established a market. Newcastle had, however, till then, enjoyed the exclusive trade of the Tyne, and its authorities possessed sufficient influence to thwart these efforts for the advancement of Shields. During the commonwealth, Cromwell used great exertions to remove the restrictions under which the town laboured; but, in consequence of his death, the plan proved abortive, and it was not until the end of the seventeenth century that Shields was admitted to the advantages which its maritime situation had so long presented. Since then, however, the population of the town has risen with unexampled rapidity, and its commerce has assumed a most important character. It has a weekly market on Friday, and an annual statute fair on the first Friday in November.

Clifford's Fort, a strong and handsome stone building, well provided with ordnance, stands at the bottom of the town, and effectively secures the entrance to the river. In this fort is the low light, which, corresponding with one more elevated on an adjacent bank, serves as a pilot-mark for vessels entering the harbour.

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The staple article of commerce at Shields, like that of Newcastle, is coal, and the number of vessels annually loaded at this port, falls very little short of the shipment from the latter place. The manufactories have reference principally to ship-building. only ecclesiastical edifice connected with the established church, is a chapel of ease; besides which, there are many places of dissenting worship. Here, also, are several free schools, and charitable institutions, all liberally endowed.

South Shields, of which a distant view is included in our engraving, is seated on the south bank of the Tyne, and forms, with North Shields, a very considerable maritime port. It was formerly celebrated for its salt works; but, at the present time, its commerce is confined chiefly to the coal trade, and to the extensive glass manufactories. The town consists almost entirely of one street, two miles in length, near the centre of which is a spacious square, where a weekly market is held on Wednesday. The ancient chapel was rebuilt, and considerably enlarged, in 1811. South Shields has the honour of being the first place where a society was instituted for the rescue of mariners from shipwreck, by means of the life-boat; of which a beautiful model, presented by the inventor, is preserved in the chapel. By the late reform bill, South Shields is constituted a borough, and, in conjunction with Westoe, is entitled to the return of one member to parliament.

ULLSWATER,-CUMBERLAND.

Ullswater is usually included among the lakes of Cumberland, though, from its situation on the line of demarcation between that county and Westmorland, it might properly be considered as common to both. The accompanying view is taken from the valley of

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Patterdale, on the Westmorland side of the lake, a point happily chosen by the artist for displaying the peculiar features of Ullswater.

This magnificent expanse of water is admitted to be the finest of all the lakes. It does not, like Windermere, present scenes of voluptuous beauty, equal to those which the Arabian prophet has promised shall hereafter be unveiled to the faithful; but a succession of imagery, incomparably grand and sublime. Its waters advance into the very heart of the mountains, which, "lifting their huge forms above the clouds," impend over the lake, and shroud in awful majesty this seclusion of nature. The hill-sides are covered with waving forests; and rich meadows are spread at their feet. At intervals are seen, peeping forth from among the trees, those quiet habitations of rural industry, that captivate the heart of the occasional visitor, and for which he is inclined to think the busy world can offer no equivalent in exchange. In the survey of such a scene, the mind of necessity becomes contemplative, and every feeling of levity subsides into emotions of reverence and admiration; whether it be at a time when the smooth lake "mirrors the Almighty's form," or on those solemn occasions when the echoing mountains reverberate

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Ullswater is nine miles in extent, and, excepting in one part where a rocky projection occurs, above a mile in breadth. "But the eye loses its power of judging even of the breadth, confounded by the boldness of the shores, and the magnificence of the fells that rise beyond: the proportions, however, are grand; for the water retains its dignity, notwithstanding the vastness of its accompaniments." This lake abounds with a great variety of fish, including a peculiar species of trout, weighing upwards of thirty pounds; eels of very considerable size, and of the finest flavour, are also readily found.

The village of Patterdale derives considerable interest from a traditional history connected with the Mounsey family. On one occasion, when the Scots had made an irruption into the northern counties, a chief was wanted to lead the herdsmen to battle against the marauders. A peasant of the name of Mounsey, offering his services, was accepted as their leader, and, by great vigilance and warlike ingenuity, he succeeded in putting the enemy to a total rout. As a reward for his valour, he was crowned amid loud acclamations, and proclaimed king of Patterdale; which title, accompanied by a substantial homage, was afterwards enjoyed by his descendants. The kings of Patterdale, however, now exist only in the chronicles of departed days.

DERWENT WATER,-CUMBERLAND.

Derwent Water, not unfrequently called Keswick Lake, from its vicinity to that town, is a beautiful sheet of water, inclining to an oval form, extending about three miles in length, and a mile and a half in breadth. It partakes of the lofty majesty of Ullswater, and the delicious scenery of Windermere; having, like the last mentioned lake, a number of small islands appearing on its surface, and being, like Ullswater, surrounded by an

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DERWENT WATER, FROM THE CASTLE HEAD, CUMBERLAND.

FISHER SON & CONDON, 1837

S. Lacey.

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