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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
A Confession: the war: an adoption: confidence in fortune some-
times necessary: hateful character of a spy: a motive for tra-
velling: a moral: anecdote of a royal description: miseries of
a Dutch galliot: Calvin and Servetus: religion and a rope's
end: Dutch anecdote of fortitude: anecdote of a Newfoundland
dog: appearance of Holland from the sea: its coast: a dilemma:
the Maas river: anecdote of Napoleon; of a Dutch woman: a
disaster: Rotterdam described: leaning houses
CHAPTER II.
The boompies: Bayle: prerogatives of genius: Spanish inscrip-
tions: a Dutch dinner: Dutch beggars: a good bargain: anec-
dotes of some members of the Batavian executive body: anec-
dotes of the passion of the Dutch for traffic: anecdote of Lord
Nelson and the Dey of Tunis: hereditary dresses: the Ex-
change of Rotterdam; anecdotes of the English there: several
anecdotes of the King and Queen of Holland: public opinion of
them: duty of a Tourist
CHAPTER III.
13
Commission countenances: physiognomies compared: homage
paid to genius: Erasmus's statue: inscription: revolutionary
whims: learned gallantry: kisses: anecdotes of Erasmus:
cathedral of Saint Lawrence: the rival organ: charity schools:
public examinations: effects of education on the public mind:
his Grace the Duke of Bedford: Mr. Lancaster's school
CHAPTER IV.
22
The coins: practice of vails-giving in Holland: fruit and vegeta-
ble sellers: Dutch passion for scrubbing and mopping: whimsi-
b
cal sarcasm of a traveller: singular offence offered to a chamber-
maid: Dutch prints of Lord Nelson: treatment of our coun-
trymen at Verdun: Dutch compared with the Chinese: private
collections of paintings: brief anecdote of the Vanderwerfs:
remarks on Dutch and Flemish schools: Dorpt; anecdotes of
distinguished persons there: anecdote of Cowper: interposi-
tion of Providence
30
CHAPTER V.
Licensed brothels; remark upon them: Dutch literary meeting
described spitting pots: pipes, Dutch extravagant in them;
smoking; historical anecdote of tobacco: general temperance
of the Dutch: arbitrary power of police masters: travelling in
Holland very cheap and very agreeable: canal to Delft: Dutch
sawing mills: English circular masonry mills: Dutch lan-
guage specimen of the English, Dutch, and German lan-
guages
41
CHAPTER VI.
Dexterity of boatmen: Overchie: Dutch gingerbread: a French
saying: Delft china: Delft: Dutchman's remark on the war :
new church: anecdote of Grotius: affectionate stratagem:
Grotius's remarks on education: Barneveldt: noble female
anccdote the carillons; carilloneurs: Dutch frugality towards
the dead revolutionary moderation: firmness of manufac-
tures
56
CHAPTER VII.
Spirited remonstrance: anecdote of a regicide: interesting anec-
dote of Frank Hals and Vandyke: a Dutch Bloomfield: delight-
ful passage to the Hague: Dutch discussion of Desdemona's
wish: Ryswick: approach to the Hague: Dutch review: old
and new constitutions compared: brief review of the ancient
constitution of Holland: also of the political history: remarks
on the Princes of the house of Orange
CHAPTER VIII.
66
Remarks on the last Stadtholder; also on the Princess of Orange;
her presumption and indiscretion: hatred of the Dutch to the
House of Orange: Fête at the Hague on the flight of that
family. Reasons assigned for the progress of the French arms;
for the glorious triumph of British prowess. Conduct of the
new government towards some of the servants of the old: the
new constitution of Holland
CHAPTER IX.
76
Grand entry of King and Queen into Holland: opening of the
meeting of their High Mightinesses: anecdote of royal econo-
my: the Hague described: Lady W. Montagu's remarks re-
butted: pretty female faces: a Dutch nursery: Dutch mode of
increasing animal heat: the wood: its sanctity: the palace for
merly called the House in the Wood: anecdote of King Wil-
liam the Third: unostentatious habits of the Orange family:
charming jaunt to Scheveling: a marine hotel: Mr. Fox
CHAPTER X.
92
Historical anecdote of Scheveling: anecdote of Lord Nelson: a
marine scene. Passion of Dutch for flowers not subsided. Vene-
ration of Dutch for storks: causes of it: quails and swans:
humorous blunder of a Dutch waiter: universal industry: dogs
and goats: the theatre: theatrical economy: prodigal procrea-
tion. Present state of the Hague; state of literature there : brief
anecdote of Daniel Mytens: of John Hanneman: of John le
Duc, or the Brave
-
CHAPTER XI.
106
Vegetable problems. Approach to Leyden: general description
of that town: the town-hall: celebrated picture of Lucas Van
Leyden; anecdote of that painter: also of Karel de Moor: pic-
ture of the siege of Leyden: description of that horrible siege:
generous and heroic conduct of the Dutch women: also of Peter
Adrian: the mount: university of Leyden : the students: anec-
dotes of Boerhaave: Peter the Great: genius and diffidence:
confidence in Providence: monument of Boerhaave.
CHAPTER XII.
116
The botanic garden: the celebrated ancient palm busts and
statues: theatre of anatomy: library and portraits of distin-
guished persons: museum of natural history: attractions of
the university; its present condition; severity of its examina-
tions: anecdotes of Rembrandt; his genius and rapaciousness:
a stratagem: criticisms on his works: Mr. Desenfan's splendid
gallery of paintings: John of Leyden: his ambition, cruelty,
and fate: Dutch bowing: Saint Peter's church: anecdote of
Russian prisoners
128
The
:
CHAPTER XIII.
press of Leyden; its staple trade: anecdotes of Gerard
Douw of Jean Steen; his singular painting of the Deluge:
anecdotes of Francis Mieres: the pictorial contest: anecdote
of Vanderwelde: the village of Rhynsburg: singular religious
association: a curious custom: explosion at Leyden: conduct
of the King. Haarlem; its celebrated organ described: anec-
dote of Handel: Mr. Henry Hope's House
CHAPTER XIV.
137
Anecdotes of Lawrence Coster: art of printing how discovered;
its originality disputed: female fortitude and presence of mind:
siege of Haarlem: heroic conduct of the women: brief anec-
dote of Wouvermans: of Bamboccio: fatal effects of severe
criticism: anecdotes of Nicholas Berghem and his termagant
wife of Ruysdaal: enormous sluices; approach to Amsterdam;
its general appearance: a sley: Erasmus's whimsical descrip-
tion of that city: the stadt-house: silence represented as a
female: the tower: clocks, singular mode of striking the
? hour
148
CHAPTER XV.
Dungeons in the stadt-house: treatment of the prisoners: hall
of justice the torture: criminal trials: capital punishment:
anecdote of a malefactor: the bank; its former and present
state: popular tumult: effects of diffusive education: public
fête at Amsterdam: dancing Dutchmen: the Beguines: ladies
of Holland: house-rent: the water of Amsterdam
CHAPTER XVI.
164
Police fires: laws relating to debtors; ditto to bankrupts: the
aanspreekers: singular custom: the trokenkorb: the streets:
insalubrity of stagnant canals: societies for recovering drowned
persons: noble conduct of the Emperor Alexander: Polish
gratitude Austria: the exchange: a Dutch merchant: her-
ring fishery
CHAPTER XVII.
174
Former commerce of the Dutch: Batavia: anecdotes of national
frugality exchange and banking business: commercial house
of Messrs. Hope: Jew fruit-sellers: marine school: the rasp-
house: the work-house: the plantation: priests how supported:
parish registers: the poor: literary societies: Felix Meritus:
modern Dutch painters
CHAPTER XVIII.
183
The Dutch theatre: theatrical traffic: the rondell: singular village
of Brock: Saardam: cottage of Peter the Great: climate, divisions,
and population of Holland: journey to Zeyst: Dutch fond of
coffee: small farms: picture of a Dutch peasant's nest: effects
of industry: palace of Soestdyke: pyramid raised in honour
of Bonaparte: society of Herrenhuthers; their house and in-
ternal arrangements described
CHAPTER XIX.
193
The mall of Utrecht: a gasconade: the Rhine: conquest of
Utrecht: the cathedral: beautiful lines: anecdotes of distin-
guished persons born at Utrecht; the ancient inhabitants: a
direction: the city of Arnheim: anecdote of Beck: Dutchy of
Berg: Cleves: anecdote of Flink: a tedious form: anecdote
of brown bread: the contrast: the reception: Bonaparte's
hatred of English
CHAPTER XX.
204
Dusseldorf described; its inhabitants; the grand ducal court:
anecdote of Murat: a double entendre: the flying bridge:
Cologne: a contraband peep: the cathedral: a collection of
gods: a bon mot: priestly mummery: anecdote of an arch-
bishop of Cologne: anecdote of Rubens and other distinguished
persons: present state of Cologne
CHAPTER XXI.
221
Remarks on the French army: origin of the conscription: Ro-
bespierre French soldiers: policy of the generals: military
vanity: bulletins: mode of attack: Rhenish confederation:
act of imperial abdication
CHAPTER XXII.
236
Imperial regulation necessary to be known: the director of the
bureau des diligences par eau: singular adventure: a scrape:
a stratagem: passage to Bonn: a discovery: excellent effect
of brandy: the city of Bonn: the Mall: effect of black: pre-
sent state of Bonn: the seven mountains: the monastery: an-
ecdote of the Empress Josephine: beautiful scenery 251