DEAR SIR, LETTER IV. Caerphyli. FROM Caerphyli we proceeded over a mountainous country to the southward, till we entered on a road leading through thick woods and steep declivities into the vale we had lately left. This, both to ourselves and horses, accustomed to the smooth gravel of English turnpike roads, was not only a formidable but a perilous undertaking. Nature has done much for this country. It has not only furnished the materials necessary for the formation and repair of roads, but it has actually made them. This we were upon is a genuine British road, formed by the landfloods, precipitately hastening from the mountains to the Taaffe. The shape is of course concave, the two sides rising considerably higher than the centre, which is plentifully strewed with large stones from the adjoining rocks, deposited at the most dangerous intervals that can possibly be imagined; so that you seem going up and down stairs on horseback. Sometimes also a quicksand letting us drop beneath the surface, reminded us, that vigilance should accompany our every step. Indeed the roughness, as well as difficulty of passing this tract, brought strongly to our recollection the celebrated Appian way: and however the comparison may shock those accustomed to offer all their incense on Roman altars, we could not help exclaiming, "Hoc iter ignavi divisimus, altius ac nos HOR. SAT. After considerable toil and more alarm, we descended into the vale; and regaining the Myrthis road, soon reached Cardiff. Three miles from Caerdiff is the Roman station of Caeron, called Cary. The land suddenly rises to the southward, and on an eminence stands the small church. Beneath this are a variety of fortifications, consisting of valla and fossa, which from the porta decumanus to the west, and the prætoxium still visible at the east end of the camp, are evidently Roman; several smaller works appear also in the vicinity. This was the tibia amne of Richard's eleventh Iter, and the road from hence to Bovium may be traced in this direction, passing the river Elay by a ford, still retaining the name of Rhyd Sarn, or the ford of a Roman road. The tradition is, that these were the work of Oliver Cromwell. That he occupied this post previous to the siege of Caerdiff, is highly probable; for it was a striking trait in the military character both of Fairfax and of Cromwell, that they never omitted taking advantage of every Roman camp, which lay contiguous to the scene of their operations. Rightly judging, that the genius of ages famed for military talent had been exercised in the choice of those stations; and that the wisdom of the present, was not to reject the wisdom of the past. Obtaining the high land of St. Lethian Down, the views were prodigiously fine, and crossing it to the south, for the purpose of visiting the coast, we passed a delicious small vale, called Dyffren;* inclosed with moderately rising hills, that include an extent of pasturage covered with numerous herds, which * Here grow in abundance sison verticillatum and empetrum nigrum. gave the pleasing idea of richness and plenty. Following the windings of the stream, we imperceptibly found ourselves in a deep ravine, the ground rising abruptly on each side, well wooded, the stream meandring in the bottom, amidst thick brush wood to the sea a neat white-washed cottage sprinkled about gave a pleasing effect to the confined, but singular beauty of Cwm Cyddy. The vale opens into a sandy æstuary, which expanding to the right and left, embraces the small island of Barry. The traeth or sands are at flood covered, and is about as wide as the Thames at London bridge; at ebb, they are bare, and the passage only intercepted by a small stream of fresh water, fordable for horses. This island is about a mile and a half in circumference, (170 acres) consisting of eminences covered with maiden turf; and the soil being sandy forms fine burrowing for conies, numerous colonies of which occupy different parts of it. These are taken in quantities, and regularly sent to Bristol and other markets. Indeed they constitute the principal produce of the farm, which now lets for 50l. per annum. As this let four hundred years ago for 101. it will appear, taking the difference in the value of money, that little improvement has been made since that period. Barry possesses an advantage, which is not made the most of, either by the tenant or proprietor. Quantities of valuable fish frequent the shores, as plaice, skate, thornback, gurnet, brill, mullet, turbot, and Barry soles, which are preferred to any by the disciples of Epicurus. It is celebrated as the burial place of St. Baruch, a disciple of Gisalch, a Briton of distinguished piety: hence, as a MS. of the church of Llandaff informs us, the island derives its name. A chapel dedicated to this saint was standing in the time of Leland. But there is no building now but a farm house, fitted up as a lodging house, for those desirous of sea-bathing in retirement. And truly a more unmolested retreat cannot be imagined. To those who possess sufficient fortitude to brave the ennui of continual quietude, both the water and the sands are reasonable inducements. But the want of machines excludes many, especially delicate females, from enjoying the advantages arising from situation. To us there was a characteristic dreariness, heightened by the hoarse sounding ocean, that inspired melancholy: not a tree nor shrub, but one continued sight of sand partially covered with short grass; which a few poor sheep were endeavouring to graze. If you ascend the hill the wide expanding channel, and behind the well wooded, but thinly inhabited country; with the idea of being able to get off but once in twelve hours, (for the boat is not properly attended to) are points, that will furnish but little that is interesting to the valetudinarian or the gay. To a party, who have all their amusements among themselves, it may be tolerable for a time; but to those accustomed to the luxury of society, and other pleasurable amusements, Barry will not furnish a single inducement to visit or reside. Our object in visiting this secluded spot, was to investigate, if possible, the nature of a phenomenon often asserted, and often denied to exist here. "In a maritime rock of this island," says Gyraldus," there is a narrow chink or cleft, to which if you place your ear, you will perceive the noise of smiths at work. Sometimes the blowing of bellows; sometimes the strokes of hammers, and fires fiercely burning in furnaces; sometimes the most harmonious sounds, like those of various instruments of music. The opinion how these are produced is, that here are fairies, or spirits of the mountains, incessantly employed hammering on the brazen wall, intended by the prophet Merlin for the perpetual defence of Britain. Who after employing them in this important work, carelessly inattentive to the great undertaking he had in hand; and being too much enamoured with a celebrated beauty, the grand enchanter became the slave of a more powerful enchantress. Decoyed by the irresistible charms of the lady of the lake, he was sentenced to perpetual confinement. The poor fais, or fairies, therefore, are doomed by the laws of magic to continue their unavailing labour, till the prophet shall regain his power and his freedom .*” We sought, like the curious before us, for the phenomenon in vain. It has been supposed, that Gyraldus must have mistaken this for the small island of Holm in the river Bury; at a small distance from the promontory called Warm's-head; where are caves in which the wind often occasions a variety of noises. It has been the fate of Gyraldus, to have his veracity continually questioned; and the poor monk, though the most accurate writer of his time, has been the constant mark for the severity of anti *Near the abbey of Clairvaux in Switzerland, a story of a similar nature is handed down by tradition. An evil spirit is said to have been laid in chains, beneath a mountain, by St. Bernard And the smiths of that country, upon entering on their labour in a morning, think it an incumbent previous duty, to strike three strokes on their anvils, to rivet the supposed fetters of this aërial miscreant. |