DEAR SIR,

LETTER VIII.

ON the opposite side the river, is the poor

small town of Llanelly, with an old mansion of the Stepney family in a state of dilapidation, inhabited principally by fishermen and colliers. Several collieries are worked in this neighbourhood, as the country round abounds in this useful fossil. It is an unusual circumstance, that the coals here differ from those of Cidwelly, though but six miles distant. Those of the latter place being stone coals, which bear only to be watered, but not blown, as they are quickly extinguished by a strong stream of air; while those of the former, denominated ring coals, bear both to be watered and blown, and are therefore much in repute for the use of smiths. This, though a small place, has a tolerable barbour; and is the controuling port both for Caermarthen and Cidwelly. The Custom-house being here, all clearances and entrances are here registered. From the entries it appears the trade of this district has been on the decline. The list of ships cleared out stands thus: 1793, 478; 1794, 457; 1795, 509; 1796, 520; 1797, 411; 1798 328;

331, to August 27th.

1799, 381; 1800,

A large iron foundery and other works, have been lately erected by a Mr. Raby, and it is not improbable but it may again be a flourishing place. Ascending the hill of Penbre, we obtained a fine view of the bay of Caermarthen; and descending abruptly, found ourselves environed with collieries. We then crossed the Gwendraeth Vawr, by a long narrow

bridge of numerous small arches, thrown over a marshy flat overflown by the tide, and entered the small but neat town of Cidwelly, otherwise Cathweli, i. e. Cattælectus; because Leland says Cattus used bere to make his bed in an oak. Some consider this as the Catgwaloph of Bede, where he says was fought the battle between Aurelius Ambrosius and Vortigern, A. D. 458; 96 years before the battle of Baden. (Vid. MS. Welsh Chron. in Llifr coch a Hergest. Jes. Coll. Lib.) The old town stands between the two rivers, Gwendraeth Vawr, and Vychan, on the banks of the latter. It is walled round, and had three gates, part of which and one gateway are still standing: one of these, in Leland's time, had a fair town ball over it, and beneath a dungeon.

Here was a priory of Benedictine monks, founded by Roger, bishop of Salisbury, about the 1130, dedicated to St. Mary, and made subordinate to the monastery of Sherborne in Dorset ; valued, at the Dissolution, 381. per annum. But on entering Cidwelly, the first thing that strikes the eye is the bold shell of its magnificent castle, standing on an eminence near the bank of the river, and is remarkable for the state of preservation after so long having been neglected. The chapel and principal apartments are still to be distinguished; several staircases accessible; and the grand gateway to the south and four round towers, perfectly uniform, produced a venerable effect. Time, however, has sufficiently impaired its beauty, as to heighten its sublimity. The erection of this edifice is attributed to King John; and the lordship of Cidwelly being at present included in the duchy of Lancaster, would be favourable to such a conjecture. But Maurice de

Londres, removing out of Glamorganshire, made himself master of Cidwelly; after a severe struggle, fortified the town with walls, and erected the present castle, (vid. Camden). But Powel says, it was built by Rhys, Prince of South Wales, A. D. 1190. It is famed in history for having been the scène of one among many instances of personal courage and military prowess, exhibited on extradinary occasions by the softer sex. When the above Maurice invaded these territories, Gwenllian, wife of Gryffydd ap Rhys, and daughter of Gryffydd ap Conan, Prince of North Wales, a woman of heroic courage, wishing to restore the declining fortunes of her husband, who was gone into North Wales to solicit assistance, rallied the broken forces of the Welsh; rouzed the spirit of her friends; and, with the aid of her two sons, placing herself at the head, bravely engaged the Anglo-Normans in a pitched battle. For a time victory declared in her favour, and her united skill and valour appeared invincible: but fresh troops continually being poured in from the Norman garrisons in the vicinity, the event of the day proved against her; but not till herself, and her son Morgan, and the chief of the nobility, were left dead on the field of battle, and her son Maelgwyn made prisoner. The place where this battle was fought is still called Maes Gwellian. Worrington says, she was beheaded, though dead, after the defeat: but Nullum memorabile nomen

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Fœminea in pœnâ est, nec habet victoria laudem." However, an act so savage, even without precedent in those brutal times, called loudly for vengeance. Alive to an injury so singularly atrocious, her brother, Owen Gwynedd, and Cadwalader, whose per

sonal courage and courteous demeanour might have entitled them to dispute the palm with the accomplished knights of the days of chivalry, assembled their forces, and laid waste the whole province of Cardigan. Being joined by the outraged husband, and their army increased by the auxiliary troops of several chieftains, they took or destroyed every thing before them: and it was long before the Normans, aided as they were by all the power of the English, could recover the blow: nor were they able to make any effectual resistance, till the confederacy was weakened by the untimely death of the gallant Gryffydd, son of Rys ap Tewdwr, who closing a life replete with deeds of valour, reflected back the honours he had received from a long line of illustrious ancestry.

The courageous and spirited feats of this heroine are still in the recollection of the neighbourhood; and her name, Gwenllian, is a favourite Christian one among the females of the present day. Gryffydd, son of Llewelyn, Prince of North Wales, when in possession of the place, suspecting that the magistrates had a design to betray him to the Earl of Pembroke, then in arms against his father, burnt the whole town to ashes, not even sparing churches or religious houses, A. D. 1222. It suffered a similar fate from Llewelyn himself, A. D. 1231: but it was repaired by Alice de Londres, wife of the Duke of Lancaster; and again in the reign of Henry VII. on his visiting Gwentland.

After this invasion, the inhabitants left what is called the Old Town, and settled to the westward of the river, nearer the shore, invited by the prospect of a good harbour, and built what now forms

the principal part of the town: these are joined by a handsome stone bridge; but the harbour is so choaked with sands, that it is at present a very indifferent port. A few small vessels are able to come to the loading quay; otherwise those that draw much water are under the necessity of dropping anchor at what is termed the sailing quay, a mile below the town. The principal trade is in coals, which are delivered at 2s. per barrel. Culm varies in price from gd. to 1s.

A singular circumstance occurred some time since to this harbour. An extensive sand bank some years ago increased so much, as to shut up the usual entrance to the port; but lately it separated, and the opening became sufficiently deep, at high water, to admit vessels, as formerly, through this more eligible line. The principal colleries in the neighbourhood belong to the Miss Reymars, as coheiresses of the late Mr. Reymar, who, finding the coal trade decrease, and likely to be lost, from the land carriage preventing the people bere coming into the market upon equal terms with those of Pembrokeshire and Glamorgan, boldly engaged alone in the spirited undertaking of opening a canal from the collieries and lime quarries to the quay, a line of three miles and a balf which he effected at his individual expense. This produced the desired effect; and it now pays a considerable interest on the principal, besides the additional advantage derived to the collieries.

This Lordship, with the annexed title of Lord of Oginore and Cidwelly, came by the marriage of Haweis, daughter and heiress of Thomas de Londres, to Patrick Haworth, and by a grand-daughter of the said Patrick, to Henry, Earl of Lancaster ; and now forms part, and enjoys the privileges of that