Arklow lies the celebrated Vale of Avoca. It has been made immortal by the poet Moore; but, though its fame is well deserved, and it is a spot beloved by all who have ever seen it, it is in reality no more beautiful than other similar spots elsewhere. The Vale of Avoca shares with Killarney, Blarney Castle, and the Giant's Causeway a popularity which is not equalled by any other of the beauties of Ireland. Here "in this most pleasant vale," where the Avonbeg joins the Avonmore, is the "Meeting of the Waters." Moore lavished his choicest phraseology upon its charms; and tourists since there have been tourists have devotedly stood by, book in hand, and attempted to fit in the poet's words with each tree and stone and rivulet. For the most part they have not been successful; and the words the poet sung· "There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet "Sweet vale of Avoca! how calm could I rest In thy bosom of shade with the friends I love best, Where the storms that we feel in this cold world should cease And our hearts, like the waters, be mingled in peace might quite as readily have applied to any other spot as fair. It will never do to disparage Moore's poetry, and least of all in a chronicle of Irish experiences; but, once and again, an idol does really shatter itself, or at least totters unsteadily on its base; and when one has made the round of all Ireland's fairest beauties, and heard Moore's melodies dinned into his ears by importunate touts and mendicants without number, the sentiment is apt to grow thin, and sooner or later the soul rebels. At this point, then, the author's patience gave out, and so he records his mood, however unseemly it may otherwise appear. It is indeed a pretty valley, strangely pretty, if you like; and one can hardly remain unmoved and unemotional before its expanse of green, its oaks and beeches, its rocks and rills, its ivies, and more than all else its sunsets. But when one has said with Prince Puckler Muskau that much-quoted royal German so |