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PREFACE.

I AM happy to avail myself of the opportunity which a Preface affords for explaining to the reader my reason for submitting the following pages to his notice. They were written for the most part at intervals of leisure, which I mention, as it will explain any want of connexion that may exist in the work, and having been submitted to some friends for perusal (who, I fear, viewed them through a medium by no means achromatic), recommended me to publish them, as they were of opinion that even these hurriedly drawn up remarks might, to some extent, have the effect of directing attention to a district hitherto unnoticed, I might almost say unknown. From little causes great effects frequently arise; or, as Mr. Pope has beautifully expressed it

"As the small pebble stirs the peaceful lake,
The centre moved, a circle straight succeeds,
Another still, and still another spreads."

When I visited Connamara, I had not the slightest idea of writing any thing on the subject;

from which circumstance many points of interest may have escaped my notice. I went there with a view of collecting some information respecting the late Alexander Nimmo, the eminent engineer, who carried out most important works in this district. His brother resided here subsequently, and having been for some time in communication with him respecting his lamented brother, Alexander, of whom I have been collecting for some time materials for a work now in the press,'Memoirs of the eminent Engineers of Great Britain,'-I thought it desirable to avail myself of a little leisure which presented itself in order to communicate with him in person on the subject, but, melancholy to relate, I found he had been drowned by the upsetting of a small boat a short time previous to my visit.

When I left for Connamara, I was led to expect that I should see some interesting and picturesque scenery, but I must confess I was not at all prepared for the rich treat which this tour afforded me in that respect. I had only just left the beauteous Lakes of Killarney, which are certainly quite worthy of the reputation they have gained; but, as far as I am individually concerned, I must give the preference to the bold and romantic scenery of Connamara and Joyce's Country.

There is nothing, in my mind, in Ireland, which is entitled to a comparison with it. There are, perhaps, at Killarney, more beauties concentrated in one spot than perhaps in any other part of Great Britain, but here the scene is much more extensive.

I was astonished to find so few tourists appear to have visited this part of Ireland. Neither Mr. Khol, nor any of the modern writers make even mention of it. Mr. Inglis is the only one who has really done this district justice. I was pleased to find, on reading his work subsequently to my tour, that his ideas so accorded with my own; as from the extent of his travels and the accuracy of his observations, he must be regarded as a high authority. There will be found in this little book numerous extracts from his valuable work on Ireland, which ought to be read by every one who takes any interest in the country. Indeed, the extracts are so numerous, and occupy so much space, that I can only compare the work to that satirical poem-'The Pursuits of Literature,' of which it was said the poem was only a peg to hang the notes upon. I feel assured the reader will not regret this circumstance.

I gladly avail myself of the present opportunity to express my thanks for the characteristic hospi

tality and kindness which I received during my tour. From the circumstance of leaving for Connamara at almost an hour's notice, I went without even a single letter of introduction, but, under the circumstance, they would have proved useless.

As many persons in this country entertain erroneous notions as to the security of travelling in Ireland, and more especially in this district. I think it right to endeavour to disabuse their minds on that subject as much as possible.

I believe there is no part of her Majesty's possessions where persons may travel with more security. I have never heard of a stranger being in any way molested. The crimes which, unhappily, are committed never arise from a view to plunder. I trust, however, that the time is not far distant when such acts will become a matter of history. Little more than half a century has elapsed since Arthur Young wrote, and yet what beneficial changes have taken place in Ireland since his time, as the following extract will prove. He says

"Let it be remarked, that they commonly plough and harrow with their horses drawing by the tail. It is done every season. Nothing can put them beside this; and they insist that, take a horse tired in traces, and put him to work by

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