BOOK CLIII. Guern sey. Guernsey is smaller and less populous; its inhabitants are 21,000 the Catholics are not very numerous: different sects of Protestants have each their church. St Pierre, the only town which the island contains, is the seat of the courts of justice this town consists of a single street rather narrow, but well built: the harbour is commodious. It is defended from the waves by two strong piers, and from enemies by a citadel called Chateau Cornet, which stands upon a steep rock surrounded by the sea, and is only accessible at low water by a narrow passage. A town- or rather from the rudeness of its buildings a village, containing 1000 inAlderney. habitants, occupies the centre of the little island of Alderney. Scilly Among the Scilly Islands we shall mention only St Mary, which contains the small town of Heugton with a prison, and Tresco where the little town of Dolphin has nothing more worthy of attention than the preceding. These isCornwall lands belong to the county of Cornwall, a district formerly inhabited by the Dumnonei. A relic of this Celtic people exists in the language of the inhabitants of this country: less than a century ago the Cornish, a Kumbre dialect, was the only language spoken here. Another remarkable object of the same origin will be found in the druidical monuments, some of which are immense blocks of granite with rounded surfaces, resting upon other blocks in such perfect equilibrium that a slight exertion will communicate to them a motion which endures for a surprising length of time. One of these stones is computed to weigh upwards of 100 tons. Industry. Agriculture has made little progress in this arid and hilly region, which contains but a small number of fertile valleys: but its fisheries which afford occupation to above 12,000 individuals, and produce annually 220,000 dollars, and its mines of copper and tin yielding a product of near 3,000,000 dollars, may give an idea of the riches of the county. These two great branches of revenue seem to enjoy a monopoly of the industry of Cornwall, yet there are several paper mills upon the streams about Hayle, a village noted for its manufactories. Carpets are made at Truro, and coarse woollens at Callington, Launceston, St Austel, Bodmin, and some other places. In point of commerce and maritime affairs Falmouth is the most important place in the county. Two centuries ago, this town was only a cluster of wretched huts, the dwellings of fishermen. But its position outside the channel enabling ships to sail to the south of Europe and avoid the Bay of Biscay; and the establishment of packets between this port and the Spanish peninsula, the West Indies and other parts of the world, have made it a town of importance. The harbour seems to occupy the spot named by Ptolemy Cenionis Ostium. At the entrance is a rock called Black Rock, believed to be the spot where the Phenicians. landed to purchase tin of the natives: the bay of Falmouth is capable of sheltering the whole British navy. The Cenio mentioned by the Greek geographer, is the river Fal, which gives name to the town. The town consists principally of one long, well built street; and with the harbour, is defended by two forts, each situated on a point, and constructed by Henry VIII: one of these, called Pendennis Castle, was considerably enlarged by Elizabeth. It made a long resistance to the army of Cromwell, and the works of the besiegers may be still seen in the neighborhood. BOOK CLIII. Falmouth. shire. Devonshire lies east of the preceding. It is washed by Devonthe Bristol channel on the N. and the English channel on the S. The Tamar and Ex are its principal rivers: the former constitutes the western limit, and flows into the bay of Plymouth the latter rises in a sterile and marshy tract called Ex-moor: it receives numerous streams and runs into the English channel at Exmouth. In traversing Devonshire we are struck with the variety of the surface and soil the valley of Exeter, and the country from the Teign to the mouth of the Tamar, are unsurpassed in fertility and wealth they furnish London with a fine breed of longhorned cattle, celebrated for the delicacy of their flesh. The southern coast is under excellent cultivation, and offers the most charming scenery; while along the banks of the Tamar, a plain seven leagues long, and five wide, offers a spectacle of the most revolting sterility. This plain, which from the most ancient period has borne the name of the Forest of Dartmoor, indicating that it was once covered with Dartmoor. trees, presents to the view but tracts of marsh formed by CLIJI. BOOK the river Dart, immense blocks of granite heaped together in confusion, peat-bogs, furnishing the only fuel of the inhabitants, and heaths which serve for pasture to flocks of sheep, lean, dwarfish, and often decimated by the rot. The inhabitants of this savage territory are called Moormen, and are considered the most ignorant and brutish people in all the west of England. For many years, efforts have been made with some success to civilize them, and render the country susceptible of tillage. In the midst of this marshy and barren spot, more than 7000 French and American prisoners were confined in a huge prison, which since the return of peace has been converted into an agricultural establishment for the poor. Plymouth. In the southern part of the shire, Plymouth, formerly called Devonport, is one of the most flourishing towns, and has one of the busiest harbours and most important naval docks in the kingdom. An immense breakwater which defends the harbour from the fury of the waves, and the Eddystone lighthouse standing in the midst of the sea, are constructions worthy of a great nation. The ancient people of Devonshire were the same with those of Cornwall: their principal town was Isex, the Isca Dumnoniorum of the Itinerary of Antonine, called afterwards Excester, and now Exeter. These various names indicate its position upon the river Ex. Formerly it contained such a number of convents as to gain the appellation of Monks-town. The place is well built: its four principal streets unite at a point called Carfax, from two Norman words signifying four roads. The southern part of the town is commanded by an ancient castle ascribed to the West Saxons, although its name of Rougemont implies rather a Norman origin. One of the finest buildings in Exeter is the Insane Hospital, remarkable for its size as well as neatThe bridge across the Ex would make a good appearance if it were not in a Gothic and absurd manner, encumbered with a number of houses and a church which cover a great portion of the bridge, interrupt the circulation of the air, and spoil the prospect. An arm of the sea washed the town walls before one of the earls of Devon ruined the navigation of it by dykes and sluices. The present harbour ness. was constructed in 1697: it will not admit vessels of above BOOK 150 tons. CLIII. Following our course east, we come to Dorsetshire, a ter- Dorsetritory justly named the garden of England. The plains of shire. the south, formerly covered with forests, are changed into fertile fields: a range of chalky hills extends from east to west. Upon their sides, and on the downs upon the coast, herds of fine cattle are fed: Dorsetshire is estimated to contain 800,000 sheep, and exports annually 150,000. From the central parts to the eastern limit are vast heaths, which in this quarter do not give a high idea of the value of the country, but the sterility of this portion is amply compensated by the richness of the valleys in the southwest. The sort of peninsula formed by the river Frome and the sea, improperly called the Isle of Purbeck, is celebrated for its Isle of Purquarries, from which are taken stones for paving, and others beck. susceptible of a polish equal to marble: much of this stone is used in the country, but another peninsula extending into the sea with the name of the Isle of Portland, furnishes ex- Isle of cellent freestone, which is exported in vast quantities to London. Portland. Dorchester, situated upon an eminence on the Frome, is Dorchesthe shire town, and is of an ancient date. In former times ter. the Durobrigæ gave it the name of Durnovaria, signifying passage of the river: the Romans called it Durnium, and surrounded it with a wall, the direction of which may still be seen. Several military roads which traverse the country, unite in this spot. The town is well built of hewn stone, with neat and well-paved streets, excellently lighted at night. The most remarkable object within its limits is a central prison, containing but 88 prisoners, but comprising also a penitentiary and house of correction. Somersetshire is famous for its cider: two cities here at- Somersettract our notice. Wells receives its name from the wells of shire. St Andrew, and is a neat and well built place: its cathedral is a fine specimen of the architecture of the 13th century. Bath, one of the most elegant cities in the kingdom, contains Bath. many beautiful promenades, fine buildings, and a magnificent cathedral: it has long been a famous resort for strangers, and fashionable English, drawn hither by the virtues. BOOK CLIII. Forest of Bristol. Gloucestershire. of its mineral waters; and that immense crowd of rich idlers so numerous in England, who seek in the dissipation of this spot a relief from the ennui which preys upon the unemployed. Bath is a town of mere amusement, and its trade is maintained solely by the consumption which this produces. It was founded in the time of the Romans, who in allusion to the efficacy and warmth of its waters, gave it the name of Aquæ Solis: the vestiges of some of their noble edifices are yet to be seen, among others the remains of a temple dedicated by Agricola to Minerva. A Roman way traverses this whole shire, the inhabitants of which were called Belgæ. The land in this quarter offers frequently the contrast of barren plains and fertile valleys. Travelling over it lengthwise, we pass the banks of the Taunton, where the soil, if we may believe the inhabitants, has no need of manure, and draws its fertility from the mere action of the sun's rays; we then behold before us the forest of Exmoor, the melancholy nakedness of which is enlivened only by a few deer. Bristol, on the Avon, which traverses this city after leaving Bath, is divided by it into two parts. That on the left bank belongs to Somersetshire; that on the right to Gloucestershire. This city, irregularly built, consists of narrow streets and lofty houses: the handsomest buildings are in the suburbs. Still it has some fine edifices, and two public squares, one of which, Queen Square, is ornamented with an equestrian statue of William III. Bristol is thought to have existed four centuries before the Christian era. The Avon, which falls into the British Channel three miles below the city, is navigable through that extent for the largest ships consequently the commerce of this place is large, and the population numerous. In the neighbourhood are some mineral springs: those most frequented are Clifton and Hot Wells. It is said that during the earthquake at Lisbon, the country here offered a singular phenomenon: the river flowed back, the water of a well in the village of Kingswood turned black as ink, and the springs at Hot Wells were agitated and turned of a reddish colour.* * See a Topographical Dictionary of the United Kingdom, by B. P. Capper. Art. Bristol. |