BOOK CLIII. View of The name of Middlesex reminds us of one of the political divisions of England in the time of the Heptarchy: it signifies the Middle Saxons, being situated between the Saxon Middlesex, territories of the cast, west and south. This county which is traversed by the canal aforementioned, and by the junction canal which unites the little stream of the Coln with the Thames, is one of the richest in England: it produces hay sufficient for 30,000 horses, most of which belong to London. Surrey. The county of Surrey, to which belongs that part of London on the left bank of the Thames, is one of the least productive as regards agriculture, yet the gardens here culti vated for the supply of the markets of the metropolis, are estimated to amount to 4000 acres. Its chief branches of industry consist in vinegar yards, calico printing, paperGuilford. making, and manufactories of pottery and hats. Guilford is the chief town. Here are every year horse races. Kew on the Thames, was the constant residence of George III; the gardens of his palace contain one of the finest collections of plants in the world. Kew has 4000 inhabitants. South of this is Richmond, containing 6000, and an ancient royal residence, with a fine observatory. The remains of the poet Thomson repose in the church of this village, which is celebrated for its beautiful situation. Berkshire. Reading. The course of the Thames leads us to Berkshire, where we encounter first the town of Windsor: William the Conqueror built here a castle in which Edward III was born, and founded the order of the garter. George III established in Windsor park, an experimental farm for the improvement of agriculture, which had been in a backward state in these sterile parts. Reading occupies the station of a capital: it is a very ancient town, built of brick and well paved, and is situated at the confluence of the Kennet and Thames: it carries on a great trade with London. This district was peopled long before the time of the Romans by a colony of the Atrebates, a Gaulish tribe in the neighborhood of Arras: at every step here we are struck with objects which recall to the memory different historical epochs. Near Wantage, BOOK CLIII. Horse on the banks of a canal which divides from east to west the southern part of the district, is a quadrangular Roman camp. At Lawrence Waltham is a Roman fort. Near Drenchworth is the castle of Cherbury, supposed to be an ancient fortress of King Canute. But an object which will not fail to attract our attention is a range of chalky hills towards Oxford, upon which a bare space represents the gigantic figure of a horse upon the gallop, sculptured in the chalk: the valley here has taken the name of White White Horse Vale. This sculpture, which covers a space of 13,000 Vale. square feet, is thought to commemorate a victory of Alfred, in 871, over the Danes, whose standard, it is well known, exhibited a white horse. Ever since this event the villagers of the neighborhood assemble annually upon St John's day, to scour the horse,' as they express it, that is, to clear away the grass which might disfigure its outlines: the remainder of the day is passed in diversion. At some distance from this spot is a collection of stones placed on end, like a burial ground of the Danish kings: many battles were certainly fought with the Danes in this neighborhood. Near the southern limit of the last mentioned county Oxfordstands Oxford, in the midst of a plain, at the confluence of shire. the Isis and Cherwell. This is one of the handsomest cities in Europe, and the most noted in all England for its university, the origin of which is lost in the uncertain traditions of the middle ages. Oxford is also noted for its manufactures and trade, which support more than 2000 families. It was once surrounded with walls, and defended by a castle, the remnants of which now serve as a prison. The univer- University. sity consists of twenty colleges, and five halls, or buildings for lodging the students, who amount in number to 4,600. In this abode of useful and serious study, frivolous amusements are not allowed an asylum: dramatic representations are forbidden, yet within these precincts the visiter beholds a magnificent theatre in the ancient style of architecture: this, however, is appropriated to the students, who on grand occasions are permitted to act Greek and Latin plays. This interesting city is indebted to the public spirit of a few wealthy individuals for many establishments highly valuable to the cause of education. The botanical garden was BOOK CLIII. founded in 1632, by Henry D'Anvers, Earl of Danby, and completed and endowed by Dr Sherrardy. The Ashmolean museum was given, in 1682, by Elias Ashmole, along with the manuscripts of his father-in-law Sir William Dugdale. The Clarendon press was established in 1712, by the profits of the sale of Lord Clarendon's History of the Rebellion, presented to the University by the author. The Radcliff library was founded in 1749, and its founder, whose name it bears, also bequeathed 30,000 pounds sterling for the construction of an observatory altogether worthy of Oxford. In a quadrangular building, containing in the upper story a fine gallery of paintings, is a hall appropriated to the famous collection of ancient inscriptions known as the Arundelian Marbles, which were gathered from the countries of Greece and Asia by the wealthy nobleman whose name they bear: they were presented to the university by his grandson the Duke of Norfolk: lastly, the Guild-hall of Oxford was erected partly at the expense of Thomas Rowney. We must not omit to mention that most precious of all the possessions of the university, the Bodleian library, which, next to the Vatican, is the largest collection of books in Europe. Oxford has in addition, fourteen parish churches, many religious edifices belonging to the dissenters, charity schools, and several benevolent institutions. Oxfordshire is watered by more than 70 streams; of these the two principal, the Tam and Isis, unite and form the Thames. A canal extending from the capital to the northern extremity of the county, and a number of excellent roads, contribute to the prosperity of its trade. Its chief Manufac manufactures are blankets at Witney: plush at Banbury: turing gloves and cutlery at Woodstock. The poor are every where Towns. occupied in spinning or making lace. The banks of the streams afford good pasturage, and cattle form the principal agricultural wealth; but notwithstanding the celebrated forest of Wichwood, the want of fuel is felt in all parts. This territory was in ancient times inhabited by the Dobuni, and was included by the Romans in the province of Flavia Cæsariensis during the Heptarchy it belonged to the kingdom of Mercia: it still exhibits two large Roman ways: one called Icknild Street leads to Goring, and the other, Akeman Street, to Burford. BOOK CLIII. Bucking Aylesbury. On the banks of the Thames, the Chiltern Hills are the first eminences which announce our arrival in Buckingham- hamshire. shire. They are named from the Saxon word chilt, which signifies chalk, and are in fact composed of this substance. Their sides are covered with a wood which formerly, when more extensive, served as a shelter to robbers. Beyond these hills, the rich valley of Aylesbury, in the centre of the shire, is esteemed one of the most fertile in the kingdom: the inhabitants are mostly cultivators: lace making, for which they have acquired a great reputation, and plaiting straw hats, occupy nearly all the young females: another no less productive branch of industry is the manufacture of paper. There is but a single cotton mill, which is at Amersham. The wealth of the district may be known from this short description. Two places divide the rank and privilege of chief town: the most important is Aylesbury, in the valley of that name: in this town the assizes are held. It was a strong place in the time of the Saxons. William the Conqueror fixed his residence here, and portioned out the territory to divers of his retainers, on the condition of their furnishing three times a year, when he happened to be in the neighborhood, the litter or straw for the royal bedchamber, three eels in winter, and three goslings in summer: the luxury of the Norman prince may be understood by these items. Buckingham is a less populous town than the pre- Buckingceding its name is derived from boc or beech, a tree for- ham. merly abundant in this place. Founded at an early period, it was surrounded with walls in 918, by Edward the Confessor, to defend it against the Danes. The ancient castle, which stood upon the hill dividing the city, has been replaced by a handsome church. Buckingham is one long crooked street, composed of houses built without regularity or elegance, and many of them with thatched roofs. Passing the junction canal, which is situated near the Hertfordlimits of Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire, we arrive at shire. Hertford or Hartford, near which the rivers Lea, Maran, Rib, and Quin, join to form an artificial bed 15 leagues in length: this is the New River, which runs into the Thames BOOK CLIII. Hertford. General view of the county. Essex. at London. Hertford, among the ancient inhabitants, was called Durocobriva, signifying red ford or passage, from the colour which distinguishes the sands of the Lea. There are some writers who assert, that Hartford is derived from the word hart, because this neighborhood abounded formerly in those animals: in proof of this derivation they adduce the arms of the city, which represent a deer crouching in the water; but a learned author has remarked, that these arms, so far from proving any thing in the case, were themselves designed after the name of the city. The Saxon kings here made their residence. Alfred erected a castle to defend the city against the Danes, who pushed their excursions as far as Ware. These historical recollections constitute the most of what is interesting about Hartford. Previous to the Roman invasion, this county was inhabited by the Cattieuchlani, the Trinobantes, tribes extending to the seacoast, and by the Cassii: under the Saxons it was divided between the kingdom of Kent and that of Mercia. Vestiges of the Roman camps are still to be seen here and there. Verulam, or perhaps Verulanum, near St Albans, was their chief station. Cheshunt and Braughin occupy the sites of Durolitum and Cæsaro Magus. This county has no towns of great importance industry and commerce labour under great restraints: the women are occupied in braiding straw: there is no manufactory worthy of mention except a few paper mills: the very soil is unproductive: without the use of soot, ashes and bones, as articles of manure, agriculture would afford little profit; but a skilful cultivation produces abundant crops of corn. The town of Ware makes a greater quantity of malt than any other town in the kingdom: but the circumstance to which a great part of the wealth of the county is owing, is the vicinity of the capital, and in particular the beautiful situations which it offers for the residence of the noblemen and wealthy merchants: few counties have within their limits a greater number of country seats. The county of Essex is a no less favourite resort for the rich citizens of London. The elegant country houses in this * Capper. Topographical Dictionary. |