inhabitants. Berlin is undoubtedly more than half the size of Paris, yet I am convinced it does not contain above a fifth of the inhabitants.

There are a few very magnificent buildings in this town. The rest are neat houses, built of a fine white free-stone, generally one, or at most two storeys high, Here, as at Potsdam, the finishing within does not correspond with the elegance of the outside, and the soldiers are quartered on the ground-floor in rooms looking to the The principal edifices are the king's palace, and that of Prince Henry. Both of these are very magnificent. The arsenal, which is a noble structure, is built in the form of a square, We were informed, that at present it contains arms for 200,000 men. I am convinced this is no exaggeration.

street.

The new Roman Catholic church is by far the most elegant place of worship in the city. The king allows the free exercise of every religion over all his dominions. He thinks the smallest controul over men's consciences high

unjust. He even has the delicacy not to influence them by his example, and offends no religion, by giving a preference to any one in particular.

On the front of the opera-house, which is a very beautiful structure, is this inscription.

FREDERICUS REX, APOLLINI ET MUSIS.

After observing the inscriptions and ornaments of the palaces and other public buildings, the new method of decorating the churches, the number of Mercuries, Apollos, Minervas, and Cupids, that are to be met with in this country, a stranger might be led to suspect, that the Christain religion was exploded from the Prussian dominions, and old Jupiter and his family restored to their ancient honours.

There is an equestrian statue of William, the great elector, on the new bridge over the Spree. This is highly esteemed as a piece of fine workmanship.-In the corner of one of the squares, is a statue of Marshal Schwerin.

He is represented holding the ensign with which he advanced at the famous battle of Prague.-Perceiving his troops on the point of giving way, he seized this from the officer's hands whose duty it was to carry it, and marched towards the enemy, calling out, let all but cowards follow me. The troops, ashamed to abandon their general, charged once more, and turned the fortune of the day.— But the brave old marshal was killed, in the eighty-fourth year of his age. Do not you think the trouble of living so long was amply repaid by such a death?

Instead of saints or crucifixes, the king intends that the churches of Berlin shall be ornamented with the portraits of men who have been useful to the state. Those of the marshals Schwerin, Keith, Winterfield, and some others, are already placed in the great Lutheran church.

The society into which strangers may be admitted in this capital, is not various or extensive. The Prussian officers of the higher ranks, whose time is not entirely engrossed, like that of their inferiors, by the duties of their profession, live mostly with their own families, or with each other. Exclusive of other reasons which might determine them to this, it is understood, that the king does not approve of their forming intimacies with foreign ministers, or with strangers.

The duke of Hamilton followed the king to Magdeburg to see the reviews there, and has since made a tour as far as Leipsic, with two English gentlemen. My connection with him, and the letter I brought from the duchess of Brunswick, have procured me invitations, which I should otherwise have had but a small chance of receiving. I passed a day lately at a very pleasant villa, about six miles from Berlin, belonging to the king's brother, Prince Ferdinand. He is married to a sister of the princess of Hesse Cassel's. The princess of Prussia was there at the same time, and Prince Frederick of Brunswick with his princess, who is remarkably pretty. I have the honour of supping sometimes with Prince Frederick, who lives constantly at Berlin. To the spirit and vivacity common to all his fa

mily, he adds a taste for poetry, and has composed some dramatic pieces in the French language, which have been represented on a little theatre in his own house, and in private societies at Berlin.-There has been a continued round of feasting all the last week.

The princess of Prussia gave a breakfast at a garden in the park, to which a large company was invited. There was dancing, which continued all the forenoon. Upon all these occasions, I saw none of that state and ceremony of which the Germans are accused. Those of the highest rank behaved with the greatest ease and affability to every person present, and joined in the country dances, without observing any form or etiquette.

The minister, Count Finkenstein, gave a great dinner and ball, on account of the marriage of one of his sons. The count Reuse, and some others, have also given entertainments; but the chief and permanent society is to be found at the houses of the foreign ministers who reside here. I have been introduced to all of them by Mr. Harris, his majesty's envoy extraordinary, who lives here in a style which does honour to his country and himself.

We have received very great civilities also from Baron Van Swieten, minister from the court of Vienna, a man of wit and erudition. He is son to the celebrated physician, whose works are so highly esteemed all over Europe. There are two or three general officers who are pretty often at the houses of these ministers, and entertain strangers occasionally at home.-Besides those I have named, there are very few of the king of Prussia's servants who have any connection with the strangers that come to Berlin. I have had the happiness of forming an acquaintance here with two very agreeable French gentlemen, the marquis de Laval, son of the duke of that name, and the count de Clermont, grandson of that mons. de Saint Hillaire, whose arm was carried off by the same bullet which killed Marshal Turenne. You remember the sentiment which Saint Hillaire expressed to his son, who lamented his wound-A sentiment which proved, that his magnani

mity was equal to that of the hero whom he so greatly preferred to himself. Adieu.

LETTER LXIX.

Berlin.

W HEN we arrived here first, the queen lived at Mont Bijou, a small palace just without the gates. Her majesty had a public day twice a week while she remained there; but she has lately removed to Shoenhausen, another palace, situated two leagues from Berlin, where she passes the summer. Here she has a public day only once a week. The princes, the nobility, the foreign ministers, and strangers, generally attend on these occasions at five in the evening. After her majesty has walked round the circle, and spoke a few words to every one, she sits down to cards. There is a table for the queen, and one for each of the princesses, all of whom choose their own parties. The rest of the company present themselves for a few minutes at each of these card-tables, after which the duty of the day is over, and they walk in the garden, or form parties at cards in the other apartments, as they think proper, and return to Berlin when it begins to grow dark. On some particular nights, her majesty invites a considerable number of the company to supper, who then remain till midnight.

The queen's court resembles the other courts of Europe; whereas that at Sans-Souci is upon quite a new plan. No strangers are received there, nor any other persons, except such as have real business with the king. There his majesty is employed in his affairs from morning till evening, and spends the hours he destines for relaxation in the company of two or three men of letters, and a few officers, who dine with him daily.-When he has business with any of his servants, or with the foreign ministers, which cannot be executed by letter, they attend him at Sans-Souci, and come away as soon as that business is transacted.

Those assemblies at Shoenhausen are the only established amusement for the ladies of quality at Berlin during the summer; but you have frequent opportunities of meeting with the court ladies at the houses of the foreign mini

sters.

The French manners and turn of thinking certainly prevail very little among the Prussian officers: but the ladies of the court of Berlin have more the air of French women, than those of any court I have seen. Mademoiselle de Hartfield, first lady of honour to the queen, with an infinite deal of wit, has all the ease and elegance which distinguish the ladies of the court of Versailles.

His majesty very seldom appears at the queen's court, or at any place where women form part of the assembly. When he inclines to unbend, his amusements are of a nature in which they can take no share. I once said to a lady of this court, that it was a pity his majesty did not love women. Considering his time of life, said she, we could dispense with his love; but it is hard that he cannot endure us.

Notwithstanding this humour of the king's, the ladies here are by no means neglected by the men in general. Many of the married women particularly, have avowed admirers, who attend them on all occasions, are invited with them to all entertainments, sit next them at table, and whom the master or mistress of the feast takes care to place in the same party with them at cards. When a lady is not provided with an attendant of this kind, her husband, as well as herself, is generally a little out of countenance, and both seem rather in an awkward situation, till this necessary concomitant be found.

A misfortune of a very serious nature happened lately to a certain gentleman here; instead of expressing concern about him or his wife, (for he was a married man), every body sympathized, in the tenderest manner, with another lady, between whom and this unfortunate gentleman the most intimate connection was thought to subsist: they said she was one of the worthiest women in the world, and of such delicate feelings, that her health might be injured by the impression the gentleman's misfortune would make upon her