military history connected with the wars of the Roses; with Perkin Warbeck, who left his wife here for her security; with the Cornish rebellion under Humphry Arundel; and with the civil war in the time of Charles I. The island is about a mile in circumference.

The line skirts the coast from Marazion, a small town, to PENZANCE, the terminal station of the railway. (Hotel: Queens). The most westerly town in England. It was burnt by the Spaniards in 1595, and sacked by Fairfax during the civil war in 1646. It is the great nursery of Cornish fishermen, and their operations are not confined to the neighbouring waters, but extend as far as the Isle of Man, the coasts of Ireland, and in fact, wherever a field of profitable enterprise presents itself, as regards herrings, pilchards, or mackerel. Their time is occupied much as follows: in fishing for mackerel in January and February, off the coast of Devonshire; and in March, April, and part of May, off Mount's Bay and Land's End; herring fishing in the end of May, June, and July, in St George's Channel; pilchard fishing off Mount's Bay, in the end of July, August, and September; pilchard and mackerel fishing, and occasional herring fishing off St Ives, in October, November, and the beginning of December.

In the neighbourhood are many of the most remarkable monuments connected with the ancient worship of the country: the circle of stones called the Merry Maidens, the Pipers, and the celebrated Logan, or Rocking Stone, which has acquired additional notoriety since, some years ago, it was hurled from its place out of pure mischief by a certain lieutenant of the royal navy, and replaced by him with the aid of

Dockyard tackle at his own expense. The skill and ingenuity, to say nothing of money expended upon this freak, can only be properly estimated by seeing the enormous block as restored to its lofty position. Within easy drives are Botalloch copper mine, worked to a considerable distance under the sea; and the LAND'S-END, the most westerly point of the mainland of England, the rocky scenery of which is very wild and beautiful.

The strange names of places throughout this region will have naturally struck the stranger. They are derived from the old Cornish language, closely allied to the Armorican of Brittany, and the Cymric of the Welsh. The last person believed to have spoken it, was Dolly Pentreath, of Mousehole near Penzance, who died in 1777, aged 102. will be noticed that the English dialect spoken here is still peculiar.

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LEICESTER,

DERBY, LEEDS AND BRADFORD.

(By Midland Railway).

212 miles; first class, 33s. 9d. ; second, 25s. 3d.; third, 158. 10 d.

EAVING London by the Midland Railway from St Pancras Station, the first place of consequence is ST ALBANS, whose famous abbey, now cathedral, is in plain view from the train, we soon reach BEDFORD (47

miles), (Hotels: Swan, George). It is situated on both banks of the Ouse, and is a place of great antiquity, supposed to be the Bedicanford mentioned in the Saxon Chronicle. It contains six churches, of which the best worth notice are those dedicated to St Paul and St Peter, and a considerable number of charitable andeducational institutions called the "Bedford Charities." John Bunyan was born at Elstow, a village about a mile distant, and in the county prison he composed his "Pilgrim's Progress." There is a considerable trade here in corn, malt and timber. The manufacture of lace and straw, plaiting are also sources of industry to a great part of the population. (Branch lines go from Bedford to Northampton and Hitchin.) Near Wellingborough (63 miles) are some medicinal springs, and it is said that Charles I. and his Queen spent a summer here in order to obtain the benefit of them. On the right, near KETTERING (70 miles), is Boughton House, the property of the Duke of Buccleuch, containing a valuable collection of paintings. MARKET HARBOROUGH (811 miles), (Hotels: Three Swans, Angel) is much resorted to during the hunting season. Charles I. fixed his head-quarters here before the Battle of Naseby. LEICESTER (97 miles), (Hotels: Bell, Stag), is an important manufacturing town on the River Soar, and is a principal station on the Midland line. It is pleasantly situated, is a clean well-paved town, and contains some very good buildings, the principal of which are the Assembly Rooms, Theatre, New and Temperance Halls and some fine ecclesiastical structures. Its principal manufactures are woollens, hosiery, gloves, cotton and

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boots and shoes. It is also the centre of a famous agricultural and sheep-farming district. is a place of great antiquity, having been a city during the Saxon Heptarchy, and is rich in historical associations. It was here that Richard III. passed the night before the battle of Bosworth Field, and his remains are buried in a Franciscan convent which then stood near St Martin's Church. Cardinal Wolsey died in the Abbey of St Mary de Pratis (now in ruins).

In the reign of Henry V. a parliament was held here, and of the castle, which occupied a large space now known as the Newark, the Hall is still entire, and contains the Assize Courts.

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The celebrated divine Robert Hall was for a long time the pastor of St Mary's, and was born at Arnesby, in the neighbourhood. Five miles distant is Bradgate Park, the birthplace of Lady Jane Grey. Ashby-de-la-Zouch (17 miles from Leicester) contains the ruins of a fine castle, the chief incidents connected with which are treated in Scott's historical novel "Ivanhoe." [Branches go off from Leicester to Rugby, Burton, Peterborough. and Lynn.] Leaving Leicester, we next reach LOUGHBOROUGH (110 miles), (Hotel: King's Head), noted for its manufactures of lace, hosiery, and bonnets. Charnwood Forest, distant about six miles from this place, is famed for its splendid views, and the wild luxuriance of its vegetation. It is here that a body of the Cistercian brotherhood established themselves at the commencement of the present century, and their monastery of Saint Bernard is noted for its hospitality and the kind reception at all times accorded to visitors. Shortly afterwards we

pass TRENT (116 miles). [A line leads to Nottingham and Lincoln, and to Manchester and Liverpool.] NOTTINGHAM (125 miles), (Hotels: George, Maypole), is built on the north bank of the Lene, and occupies a rocky eminence overlooking the rich valley of the Trent. It is an important manufacturing town, the staple trade being lace and hosiery. It has also flax mills, dye-works and breweries. In the ancient part of the town the streets are narrow and irregular, several of the latter being built in terraces, one above the other, the ground floors of the houses at the top overlooking the roofs of those at the bottom. The principal public buildings are the Exchange, Town Hall, Mechanics' Hall, County Hall, Infirmary, Theatre and Cavalry Barracks. There are some fine churches and a spacious marketplace.

William the Conqueror built a castle here which was dismantled during the Protectorate, and at the Restoration the ancient fortress was replaced by the present edifice, which belonged to the Duke of Newcastle. It was burnt during the Reform Bill riots, but has been, in late years, rebuilt and is now the Midland Counties Art Museum. Henry Kirke White is buried here, and in Hucknall Church (7 miles distant) are the remains of Lord Byron.

[NEWSTEAD ABBEY, formerly the residence of Byron, is near Linby, a station on the Railway between Nottingham and Mansfield, 9 miles from the former place. It is said to have passed into the hands of a person who freely accords permission to strangers to visit the building and grounds. The poet's bedroom has been left almost as when he occupied it, and on the lawn

is still seen the monument to Boatswain his favourite dog. External views of the house may be had from various points in the vicinity.]

Proceeding on our way along the main line, we presently reach DERBY (126 miles), (Hotel: Midland), situated on the banks of the Derwent, and forming the grand junction of the principal branches of the Midland Railway. It is finely placed on a level, fertile plain, and is surrounded by picturesque scenery.

The streets are remarkably clean and well paved, and contain some fine buildings. All Saints' church is a splendid structure. The staple manufacture is throwing silk, introduced from Italy early in the 18th century, the silk mill erected in 1718 being the first and largest of the kind in England. It has also manufactures of cotton, lace, hosiery, lead, porcelain (for which it is famous), jewellery, fluor spar, marble, &c.

It has a splendid arboretum and recreation ground. The Free Grammar School is one of the oldest English foundations, dating from 1162. Derby was the farthest place in England to which Charles Stuart, the Pretender, ad vanced. It gives the title of earl to the Stanley family, and was the birthplace of Flamsteed the astronomer, Dr Darwin (who founded the Philosophical Society), Linacre, and Richardson the novelist.

Soon after our departure from Derby we pass Ambergate Junction (137 miles), where tourists generally leave for the neighbourhood of the Peak. (A line goes to Manchester and Liverpool, by way of Matlock-Bath.) We pass in succession several stations and places of no particular note; amongst others Chesterfield (1511 miles), deriving it prosperity

partly from its cotton and other manufactures, partly from the mines in the neighbourhood; Normanton (190 miles), where three lines-the Midland, the Lancashire and Yorkshire, and the North Eastern-meet, and Woodlesford (195 miles), near which is Temple Newsam House, where Darnley, husband of Mary Stuart, was born. Here is a good collection of paintings. We shortly afterwards reach LEEDS (Hotel: Queen's). The principal buildings are the Town Hall, one of the handsomest and most commodious in the kingdom, the Commercial Buildings, and the Infirmary. There is an excellent Grammar School and a Mechanics Institute, with a good Library. Although for many centuries the centre of a great trade in wool and its fabrics, and having sent a representative to Cromwell's Parliament, it is only since the pass ing of the Reform Bill, in 1832, that Leeds has arrived at the dignity of a parliamentary, borough. The woollen manufactures of Leeds, from the coarsest and commonest shawls, blankets, &c., to the finest cloth, are known all over the world. Every process, from the cleansing and carding of the wool to the dyeing of the finished production, is performed here; there are also enormous establishments for the production of machinery, canvas and linen manufactories, and many other important branches of industry, which supply employment for its large population. The improvements of so wealthy a place have naturally kept pace with the rapid increase of population, and are, therefore, nearly all of recent date.

At no great distance by rail from Leeds, are the great industrial towns of Halifax, Huddersfield, and Rochdale. As these are all, though nominally old, essen

tially new places, and more likely to attract merely business men than tourists, we are content simply to indicate their proximity. The family of Byron were lords of the manor of Rochdale for more than two centuries, until 1823, when it was sold by Lord Byron, the poet.

[Eighteen miles from Leeds, by the North-Eastern Railway, is HARROGATE (Hotels: Granby, Queen's), celebrated for its mineral springs, some of which were discovered in 1576. It is a place of considerable resort. The season is from mid-summer to the end of autumn. There are 25 springs all sulphurous or chalybeate. The sulphurous are useful in cases of indigestion and in biliary nervous disorders, the others bracing and alterative. The springs are situated in Lower Harrogate and at Harlow Car about one mile west of Harrogate. There are extensive and excel.ent baths. The most important pump-room and promenade is the Royal Cheltenham, which has pleasant gardens attached. There are many pleasant excursions in the neighbourhood. Eleven miles farther on, by the same line, is RIPON (Hotels: Unicorn, Crown), a town of considerable antiquity. It has a fine Cathedral, and other public buildings. The cathedral, though small, is one of the most beautiful in England. It was restored in 1872, at a cost of £40,000. The West front, the Chapter House, and the Crypt, are especially worthy of notice. Three miles from the town is Studley Royal, the seat of Ear de Grey. In the pleasure grounds are the ruins of FOUNTAINS ABBEY, said to be the most perfect monastic structure in England. It was founded in 1204. It is built in the best style of Gothic architecture. The tower

and external walls are all standing. Near the abbey is an old mansion called Fountains Hall, built in 1611, with materials taken from the abbey. The grounds are open every day except Saturday. Studley Royal is the great "show place" of the county, and will well repay a visit.

About three miles from Harrogate is Knaresborough, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Nidd. Its Castle, of which only the tower and a few fragments of the walls remain, was erected shortly after the Conquest, and was occupied at one time by Piers Gaveston, the favourite of Edward II.; and after 1331 by John of Gaunt. Richard II. was imprisoned here. It was dismantled under the Commonwealth. St Robert's Chapel is a cavern in the cliff on the bank of the Nidd, opposite the Castle. Its roof is carved, and there are some curious Gothic designs on the altar. Near it is the Dropping Well, the water from which will petrify, by degrees, anything subjected to its action. About a mile distant is St Robert's Cave, where the skeleton of Clark, murdered by Eugene Aram (see Lord Lytton's novel of that title), was discovered many years after the event. The corn market at Knaresborough is the largest in Yorkshire.]

Two miles from Leeds we see, close by the railway, Kirkstall Abbey, founded in the 12th century by one of the Lacy family. The tower, one of the gateways, some broken walls, and the remains of the chapter house, are the sole remnants of this once beautiful structure. Nothing worthy of mention is observed till we arrive at BRADFORD (212 miles), (Hotel: Victoria).

[From Apperley, 7 miles from Leeds, a branch line extends to Ben Rhydding and

ILKLEY (10 miles), at both of

which are celebrated water-cure establishments. Five miles from Ilkley, by carriage road, is BOLTON PRIORY, one of the finest ruins in England, beautifully situated on the banks of the River Wharfe. The nave of the Priory Church is used as a Parish Church. It is now the property of the Duke of Devonshire, who has a hunting seat close by the priory. About a mile distant is the Strid, a channel of barely 5 ft. in width, through which the Wharf rushes with great violence. Many years ago the then heir to the estate, called "the boy of Egremond,' in attempting to spring across, was checked by his dog, which he was leading in a leash, and fell to rise no more. The incident is the subject of Rogers' "Boy of Egremond."]

Bradford was simply a market town until the year 1847, when it received a charter of incorporation. It is one of the most rapidly increasing manufacturing towns in Yorkshire. The woollen and worsted stuff manufactories employ several thousand hands, and there are cotton mills, manufactories of combs, and machinery, and extensive ironworks and foundries which also employ a very great number more. The corporation has devoted considerable sums to street improvements and sanitary arrangements, and the town has a clean and pleasant appearance. The increase in value of property here, of late years, is enormous. The historian of the place, writing in 1866, says, "land recently sold at £16 per square yard, could, within the last 20 years, have been bought for 7s. 6d."

In 1812 riots took place here in consequence of the introduction of some novel machinery, and such excesses were committed as led to the execution of 17 persons. In the Parish Church is a