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tises upon cockle-hells, did not think it thing to do. Among these you niay see beneath him to comment on the works most of our young men of fashion, and of Apicius Cælius, who had collected young officers of the guards, who meet together many valuable receipts in at these places to thew the elegance of cookery, as practised by the Romans. their taste by the expensiveness of their If you would preserve your papers from dinner: and many an ensign, with scarce the indignity of covering breasts of any income but his commission, prides veal, or wrapping up cutlets à la Main. himself on keeping the best company, tenan, I would advise you to lard them and often throws down more than a now and then with the ragouts of He. week's pay for his reckoning; though liogabalus, or a parallel between our at other times it obliges him, with fe. modern soups and the Lacædemonian veral of his brethren upon half pay, to black broth. Your works might then dine with Duke Humphry in St. James's be univerfally read, from the mistress in Park. the parlour down to the cookmaid and The taverns about the purlieus of scullion,
Covent-Garden are dedicated to Venus, It is absolutely necessary for people as well as Ceres and Liber; and you of all tempers, complexions, persua. may frequently see the jolly mess-mates fions, habits, and itations of life, how- of both sexts go in and come out in ever they may differ in other particu- couples, like the clean and unclean lars, to concur in the grand article of beaits in Noah's ark. These houses cating. And as the humours of the are equally indebted for their support, body arise from the food we take in, to the cook, and that worthy personage, the difpofitions of the mind seem to whom they have dignified with the citle bear an equal resemblance to our places of Pimp. These gentlemen contrive of refreshment. You have already taken to play into each other's hands. The a review of our several coffee houses; first, by his bigh foups and rich sauces, and I wish you would proceed to de prepares the way for the occupation of lineate the different characters that are the other; who having reduced the pato be found in our taverns and chop- tient by a proper exercile of his art, houses. A friend of mine always judges returns him back again to go through of a man of taste and fashion, by alking, the fame regimen as before. We may who is his peruke-maker or his taylor? therefore fuppofe, that the culinary arts Upon the same principles, when I would are no less studied here than at White's form a just opinion of any man's tem- or Pontac's. True geniuses in cating per and inclinations, I always enquire, will continually itrike out new improvewhere does he dine ?
ments: but I dare lay, neither Braund The difference between the taverns nor Lebeck ever made up a more exnear St. James's, and those about the traordinary dish, than. I once remem'Change, confifts, not so much in the ber at the Castle. Some bloods being coftliness as the substance of their in company with a celebrated fille de viands. The round-bellied alderman, joye, one of them pulled off her thoe, who breathes the foggy air of the city, and in excess of gallantry filled it with requires a more folid diet than the light Champagne, and drank it off to her kick haws of our meagre persons of health. In this delicious draught he was quality. My Lord, or Sir John, after immediately pleliged bythe rest, and then, having whiled away an hour or two at to carry the compliment still further, he the parliament-house, drive to the Star ordered the fhoe itself to be dressed and and Garter, to regale on Macaroni, or served up for fupper. The cook fet piddle with an Ortolan; while the himself seriously to work upon it; he, merchant, who has plo!ded all the pulled the upper part (which was of morning in the Alley, lits down to a damask) into fine ihreds, and tossed it turtle-feait at the Crown or the King's up in ragout; minced the fole; cut the Arms, and crams himself with Cali. wooden heel into very thin llices, fried paíh and Calipee. As the city taverns them in batter, and placed them round are appropriated to men of business, the dish for garnith. The company, who drive bargains for thousands over you may be lure, testified their affectheir morning's gill, the taverns about tion for the lady by earing very heartily the court are generally filled with an of this exquilite impromptà: and as infipid race of mortals, who have no- this transaction happened just after the
French king had taken a cobler's
However, the odorous effuris daughter for his mistress, Tom Pierce generally affected the smell of every (who has the Nile as well as art of a true Briton in the room. The huiler French cook) in his bill politely called was fatigued with carving: tt matter ir, in honour of her 'name, De foulier of the house grew pole, and fickenest at à la Murphy
the fight of those ju cy co'lops of fat Taverns, Mr. Town, seem contrived and lean, that came swimmi: g in gravy, for the promoting of luxury; while the and finoking mot dericiou ly under our humbler chop-houses are deligned only nostrils. Other methods therefore were to satisfy the ordinary cravings of na- to be pursued. The B-ef was still ture. Yet at these you may meet with served up, but it wis brought up cold, a variety of characters.
At Dolly's It was put upon a table in the derkelt and Horseman's, you commonly see part of the room, and immured between the hearty lovers of a beef.iteak and four walls formed artificially by the sergill of ale; and at Betty's, and the chop
vants with the hats of the company. Roures about the inns of court, a pretty When the jellies and flip Dops were maid is as inviting as the provisions. coming in, the Beef was carried off in In thele common refectories you may as fecret a manner, as if it had gone always find the jemmy attorney's clerk, through the ceremonies of concoction. the prim curate, the walking physician, But itill, Sir, under all these difadvan, the captain upon half-pay, the Mhabby tages, we had a chance of getting a slice valet de chambre upon board wages, as it pafled by. Now, alas! it is not and the foreign count or marquis in suffered to come up itairs. I dare say, it dithabille, who has refused to dine with is generally banished from the iteward's a duke or an ambasador. At a little table; nor do I suppose, that the pow. eating-house in a dark alley behind dered foormen will touch it, for fear the 'Change, I once saw a grave citi- of daubing their misiles. So that the zen, worth a plumb, order a two-penny dish that was served up to the royal mess of broth with a boiled chop in it: tables, the d'h that was the breakfast and when it was brought him, he scoop- of Queen Elizabeth and her maids of ed the crumb out of an halfperny roll, honour, the dish that received the digand soaked it in the porridge for his nity of knighthond from King James present meal; then carefully placing the the First, is now become the food only chop between the upper and under cruft, of feullions and Mabie-boys. In what he wrapped it up in a checked handker- words can I vert ny refentment upon chief, and carried it off for the mor. this occasion; especially when I rerow's repart.
flect, that innovations feldom come I shall leave it to you, Sir, to make alone? Toasted cheese is already bue farther reflections on this subject, and ried in rammekins: plumb-porridge hæs thould be glad to dine with you at any been long banished: 'I tremble for plumbtavern, dive with you into any cellar, pudding. May we not live to see a leg take a beef-steak in Ivy-Lane, a inut- of pork derefted as carrion? and a fhoul. ton-chop behind St. Clement's, or (if der of mutton avoided as if it were horseyou chule it) an extempore sausage or fesh? Our only hopes are the Clergy, black pudding over the farthing fries at and in the Beef steak Cluh. The forMoor-Fields. Your huinble fervant, mer ftill preserve, and probably will pre
T. SAVOURY, serve, the rectitude of their appetites; PYL-CORNER.
and will do justice to Beef, wherever
they find it. The latter, who are comMR. TOWN!
posed of the most ingens artists in BY Jove, it is a shame, a burning the kingdom, meet every Saturday in
thame, to see the honour of Eng a noble room at the top of Covent-Gar. land, the glory of our nation, the den theatre, and never suffer any dish greatest pillar of life, 'Roast Beef, except Beef- steaks to appear. Íhele, ütrerly banished from our tables. This indeed, are most glorious examples: evil, like many others, has been grow- but what, alas! are the weak endeaing upon us by degrees, It was begun vours of a few to oppose the daily inby wickedly placing the Beef upon a roads of fricaisees and soup- maigres ! fide-table, and screening it by a parcel This, Mr. Town, is a national conof queue-tail'd fellows in laced waist. cern, as it may prove more destructive
to Beef than the distemper among the to enforce the love of Beef by act of horned cattle: And hould the modith parliament. - averfion against rumps and furioins
Yours, continue, it will be ablolutely necessary
No XX. THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 1754.
NON UMBRA ALTORUM NEMORUM, NON MOLLIM POSSUNT
HE luties of the present age are us about election matters, that I am lished females, who fouri hed in the rout with their hissing and hollowing, days of Romance. Wh1 modern Por- my head is ready to split into a thousand theniffa would not prefer a tall young pieces! If my Sir John must be in paru fellow to the most Leautiful dwarf in liament, why cannot he do as your lord the universe, or a coach and fix to a does, and be content with a borough, white palfrey?' The fair damsels of old where he might come in without all this were chiefly to be found in woods and trouble, and take his feat in the house, forefts; but our present heroines are dif- though he has never been within an tinguith d by an utter averfion to the hundred miles of the place. country, and would as foon ve confined - Our house, my dear, has been a perby a giant in an enchanted cattle, as feet inn ever since we came down; and immared with old maiden auts in the I have been obliged to trudge about as family manfion house. 'Nothing is more much as a fat landlady. Oar doors are dreadful to our ladies of quality than open to every dirty fellow in the county. the approach of summer: for what wo- that is worth forty fhillings a year; all man of fpirit would chuse to leave the my best floors are spoiled by the hob. town to wander in solitudes and desarts; nails of farmers ftum ping about them; or what pleasure can the long days give every room is a pig-ltve; and the Chinese to our fine ladies, when the pretty crea- paper in the drawing room tinks fo tures are conscious, that they look þeft abominably of purch and tobacco, that by candle light? The generał come it would trike you down to 'come into plaint againt the country is want of it." It you knew'what I have fuffered, amusement, or want of company: but you would think I had the constitution these common inconveniences are trifles of a washerwoman to go through it! in comparison to the sufferings of the We never fit down to table without a poor tady, who wrote the following dozen or more of boisterous two-legged letter, which was communicated to me creatures as rude as bears; and I have with leave to inake it public,
nothing to do but to heap 'up their
plates, and drink to each of their DEAR LADY CHARLOTTE,
healths. What is worse than all, one I
to death, and hurried out of my would serve him but he moit kiss me, wits, ever since I have been in this odio which I was forced to fubmit to for ous country, O my dear, how I long fear of lohng his vote and interest. to be in town again? Pope and the Would you think it, dear Charlotte? poets may talk what they will of their do not laugh at niem! stood godmother porting streams, shady groves, and in person to a huge lubberly boy at a Howery meads: but I had rather live country farmer's, and they almost poi.. all my days among the cheelemongers foned me with their hocige podge they shops in Thames Street, than pass luch called caudle, made of four ale and another spring in this filthy country. brown sugar. All this and more I have Would you believe it? I have scarce been obliged to comply with, that the touched a card fince I have been here: country fellows might not say, my lady and then there has been fuch ado with is proud and above them.
Besides, there is not a woman crea- But what is worse than all, Sir John ture within twenty miles of the place, tells me, the election expences have run that is fit company for my houte. lo high, that he must horten my allowkeeper; and yet I must be in imate with ance of pin-money.
He talks of turnthem all. Lady B** indeed is very ing off tali his servants; nay, be has near us; but though we are very well even 'inte i tɔ me, that I shall not come acquainted in town, we must not be to town all the winter. Barbarous creafeen to speak to each other here, because ture!-But if he dares ferve me so, he her lotd is in the opposition. Poor full positively lote his election next Thomas got a fad drubbing at her time; I will raise such a spirit of oppohouse, when I innocently fert him at sition in all the wives and daughters in my first coming into the country with the county against him. I am your a how d'ye to her ladyship. The greatest affectionate friend, &c. female acquaintance I have here, are Mrs. Mayorels, a taylor's wife, and. This lady's case is, indeed, very much Mis. Alderman Gascoigne, who sells to be pitied: but as Sir John has had the pins and needles on one side of the shop, good luck to gain his point after a itrong syhile her husband works at his pertle opposition, he will doubtless be sensible and mortar on the other.
of the great share his lady had in his dinary wretches are constant attendants success. For my own part, when I conon my tea-table: I am obliged to take sider the vast influence which the fair them and their brats out an airing in fex mult naturally have over my fellowmy coach every evening; and am after- countrymen. I cannot help looking on wards often doomed to lie down to whist their interesting themselves in these mai. and swabbers, or one and thirty bone- ters as a very serious affair. What sucace for farthings. Mrs. Mayoress is a cess muit a fine lady meet with on her very violent party-woman; and she has canvass! No gentleman to be sure could two pog-dogs; one of which the calls be fo rude or lo cruel, as to refuse such Sir John, and the other Colonel, in com- a pretty beggar any thing she thould pliment you must know to my husband ask; and an honest country farmer, who and his brother candidate.
could withstand any other arguments, We had a ball the other day; and I might be coaxed and wheedled, or bribed opened it with Sir Humphry Chase, who with a smile, into voting against his danced in his boots, and hobbled along conscience. Many instances have been for all the world like the dancing bears, found, during the late elections, of which I have seen in the streets at Lon. husbands who have been forced to poll don. A terrible mistake happened about as their wives would have them; and precedence, which I fear will lose Sir I know a young fellow, that was brought John a good many votes. An attorney's over to give a vote against his inclination wife was very angry, that her daughter, by his sweetheart, who refused to receive a little pert chit just come from the his addresses, if he did not change his boarding-school, was not called out to party. dance before Mifs Norton the brewer's It may not perhaps be too bold an daughter, when every body knew (the assertion, that half the members in the faid) that her girl was a gentlewoman present parliament owe their seats to the bred and born.
direct or indirect influence of the other I wish, my, dear, you were to fee my fex. It would therefore be highly dresling-room; you would think it was proper for the legiftature to provide a ribband-shop. Lettice and I have against this evil for the future; and I been busy all this week in making up hope, before the next general election, knots and favours; and yesterday no to see among the Votes the following milliner's prentice could work harder resolution, than I did, in tying them on to the sweaty hats of country bumkins. And RISOLVED, is it not very hard upon me? I must That it is an high infringement of not even dress as I please; but am the liberties and privileges of the Com. obliged to wear blue, though you know mons of Great Britain, for any pee ress, it does not suit my complexion, and or any other lady, to concern themlelves makes me look as horrid as the witches in the elections of members to serve for in Macbeth.
the Commons in parliament. T
No XXI. THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 1754- .
STUDEO, BULLATIS UT MIHI NUGIS
A TALZ IN SOUNDING PHRASE I STRIVE TO TELL,
(QUASSOUW, the son of K.qvuf- grifle of her nose; and his eyes
dwelt tain qver the Sixteen Nations of Caf- of her breasts, which descended to her fraria. He was descended from N'oh navel. and Hingu’oh, who drapt from the Knonmquaiha, (for that was the ville moon; and his power extended over all gin's name) was daughter to the Kou. the Kraals of the Hottentots.
qucqua or leader of the Kraal, who bred This prince was remarkable for his her up with all the delicacy of her sex. prowess and activity: his speed was like She was fed with the entrails of goais, the torrent, that rulhes down the pre- the fucked the eggs of the oltrich, and cipice; and he would overtake the wild her drink was the milk of ewes. After als in her Hight: his arrows brought gazing for some time upon her charms, down the eagle from the clouds; the the prince in great transport einbraced lion fell before him, and his launce drank the roles of her feet: then ripping the the blood of the rhinoceros.. He, fa- beast he had just killed, took out the thomed the waters of the deep, and buf- caul, and hung it about her neck, in feted the billows in the tempeit; he drew token of his affection. He afterwards the rock-fith from their lurking- holes, stripped the tyger of his skin, and send. and rifled the beds of coral. Trained ing it to the Kouquequa her father, de. from his infancy, in the exercise of war, manded the damsel in marriage, to wield the Hafsagaye with dexterity,
The eve of the full moon was ap. and break the wild bulls to battle, he pointed for the celebration of the nupwas a stranger to the soft dalliance of tials of TquasTouw and Knonmquaiba. love; and beheld with indifference the When the day arrived, the magnificence, thick-lipped damsels of Gongeman, and in which the bridegroom was arrayed, the far-nosed beauties of Hauteniqua. amazed all Caffraria. . Over his Moul
As Tquassouw was one day giving ders was cast a Krosse, or mantle of instructions for spreading toils for the wild cat-skins: he cut sandals for his elk, and digging pitfalls for the elephant, feet from the raw hide of an elephant; he received information, that a tyger he had hunted down a leopard, and of prowling for prey was committing rava- the spotted fur formed a superb cap for ges on the Kraals of the Chamtouers. his head; he girded his loins with the He Inatched up his bow of olive-wood, intestines; and the bladder of the beast and bounded, like the roe-buck on the he blew up, and fastened to his hair. mountains, to their assistance. He ar- Nor had Knoniquaiha been less emrived just at the instant when the en- ployed in adorning her person. She raged animal was about to faiten on a made a varnish of the fat of goats mixed virgin, and aiming a poisoned arrow at with foot, with which the anointed her his heart, laid him dead at her feet. whole body, as she stood beneath the The virgin threw herself on the ground, rays of the fun: her locks were clocted and covered her head with dust, to thank with melted grease, and powdered with her deliverer: but when the rose, the the yellow dust of Buchu: her face, prince was dazzled with her charms. which shone like the polished ebony, He was ftruck with the giosty hue of was beautifully varied with spots of red her complexion, which thone like the earth, and appeared like the sable cure jetty down on the black hogs of Hefla- tain of the night bespangled with stars: qua: he was ravished with the prest the sprinkled her limbs with wood.