OUR ITINERAIRE FROM DARJEELING.

3

...

1st day Darjeeling to Pashok

16 miles. 2nd Pashok to Kalimpong

14 3rd Kalimpong to Pedong

... 13 4th Pedong to Ari viâ Rhenok

10 5th Ari to Sedongchen

14 6th Sedongchen to Gnatong

9 7th Gnatong to the Jeylap-La, and back

16 8th Gnatong to Sedongchen

9 9th Sedongchen to Ari

14 10th Ari to Pakyong

12 lith

Pakyong to Guntok 12th Guntok to Tumlong 13th Tumlong to Guntok ...

17 14th Guntok to Pakyong

12 15th Pakyong to Pedong viâ Rhenok

16 16th Pedong to Pasheting

11 17th Pasheting to Ambiok, Somari Hat, Minglass and Bullabaree

21 18th Ballabaree to Mal Bazar, on the Dooars Railway 4

... 12 ... 17

237 miles.

Rail at Mal Bazar for Julpigoree and Calcutta,

CHAPTER I.

HIMALAYAN SCENERY.
The start – Wealth and population of the Himalayas-Darjeeling
our starting point.—Macaulay's Lay of Lachen—Jore Bungalow -
Himalayan scenery– Tea in the Darjeeling District—The road to
Pashok-Rungaroon valley, forest and farm—The Ticca-Costumes

of the peasantry-A Poojah day in Pashok village

p. 1-6

CHAPTER II.

PASHOK.

Pashok gardens—View of the Runjeet-Imported foreign plants

and trees - The Cinchona industry- Absinthe Shrubs—Brick-tea-The

Sikkhim-Thibet Conventions of 1890-93-Mulberry and Silk - The

Meeting of the waters

p. 7-15

CHAPTER III.

BRITISH BHOOTAN.
Down to the Teesta—Forest produce-Road cess and excise-

Pakdundees-The Suspension Bridge-Orange

groves-British

Bhootan—The Treaty of December 1865—Exclusion of tea from

British Bhootan and Sikkhim-The old road and the new-First

view of Kalimpong

p. 16-24

CHAPTER IV.

KALIMPONG.
Head-quarters of the Scotch Kirk Missions-Climate-Kalim-

pong as a trade centre – The Teesta valley and Lachen-Lachung

trade-route.—The Am-mochoo road to Yatong and Lassa.—Trade under

the Treaty-The trade of Thibet—The Kalimpong Mela ... p. 25-50

!

CHAPTER V.

PEDONG.
The road — Arrival at Pedong-Government establishments -
Trade—The shadow of the cross—The Presbytery—The Mission to
Western Thibet— The Buddhist Monastery-Butter flowers-Musical
instruments of Buddhist worship-The horses of the wind ... p. 51-56

CHAPTER VI.

INDEPENDENT SIKKHIM—GNATONG. Boundaries—Climate and geography-Rhenok-Ari-Bhootya ponies-Sedongchen Bungalow—The Jeylook-Ruins of Thibetan stockade at Lingtu -Gnatong valley and fort

p. 57-66

CHAPTER VII.

THE JEYLAP-LA. The Tukola pass -Snow balling-Beddenmere-Tent-hill-Ascent to the Jeylap pass - Mist and Snow—The Chumbi valley-Chumu-lhaRhi—A possible Railway— Return to Gnatong—A romance of the frontier-Tobaganning—Fauna and sport in the Upper HimalayasSedongchen revisited–The rubus ellipticus-Ari, Rhenok and Pakyong-The broken bridge - Arrival at Guntok

p. 67-76

CHAPTER VIII.

GUNTOK.

The old Palace.—The Residency and Park—Historical sketch-The Namgyel Dynasty-Guru Tashe - The Thibet-cum-China war with Nepal-Our political relations with Sikkhim --Expulsion of the Nepalese by British arms—Ingratitude of the Rajah-Imprisonment of DrsCampbell and Hooker-Thibetan and Chinese intrigues—Thothub Namgyel and his predecessors – The Pagla Dewan—The Campaign of 1888—Mr. White and the present system of administration under the Protectorate

CHAPTER IX.

TUMLONG

The crest of Penlong— Bridge over the Dik-Chhu— The Gompa at Tumlong-Interview with the Phodong Lama, Marwa wine-A dinner menu-Religions of Sikkhim - Buddhism --The 10 CommandmentsThe legend of Senrab-Mi-Vo-Red and yellow Lamas—Cycle of existences — Prayer wheels- Om Mane Peme Houn—The annual festival Lepchas and Lepcha customs – Nepalese Hinduism – Marriages and burials among the Limbus and Khambus-A Nepalese abode-The Rajah's palace – The return journey.-Pachi-Kaui Cupres Mines-Rhenok on market day– Pedong revisited

p. 89-122

CHAPTER X.

THE TERJI AND THE DOOARS. The Rissoom forest-Benighted-A coolie down the Khud- The Bungalow at last, Pasheting - Difficulties at starting Change of coolies at Ambiok—Somari Hat—Down in the plains again - The Elephant forest – Khedda operations and Mela Shikar. Minglas-Bullabaree - The Terai malaria—Tea in the Dooars-Bhootya tea— Mal Bazar-Julpigoree-Last view of Kinchinjunga

p. 123-141

CHAPTER XI.

CONCLUSIONS. The gates of Thibet-Our relations with Thibet and ChinaConcurrent opinions—Tbibetan character – Trade advances of other powers towards Thibet-Russia and the trans Caspian Railway- France's progress in Indo China-Farewell to the Himalayas.

p. 142-151

APPENDIX I.
THE FLORA OF THE UPPER HIMALAYAS

BY H. C. CUMMINS, M. D.

APPENDIX II.

THE FAUNA AND SPORT OF THE UPPER HIMALAYAS

By Lieut. C. VICKERS, XIII N. I.